| Author | Message | ||
     Joshboyz |
First of, Apologies to forum moderator, I have to open a new thread. Sincere appreciation to Ray S he has been a guardian angel helping me with figuring out issues with my bike. History of my bike issue is found in this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/892519.html?1653372673 I took apart my ECM and re-soldered the joints as advised to fix the intermittent Blinks. I believe that fixed the Red light blinks. I got the Buelltooth Dongle to read errors, I got error 11 which mean TPS error. With the Help of Ray i was able to do A ground Clean and TPS reset. Before hand i had issues with the bike, after running a few miles. I get a very terrible feedback from the bike. Symptoms like Severe Coughs from the Exhaust, Bike Suddenly goes off. After the Above fix i decided to go for a ride today, and issue still persist, this time i got a safer place to park, hooked up the dongle. No errors, However AFV was about 116%. i did reset to 100%. This made no effect as the bike ran too poor. The constant cough turned into a loud shoot and bike jerks and dies. By this time i was already in traffic so i cannot park the bike i just became creative with the Clutch as i would pull in, Throttle and release so the bike does not die while I'm moving slow. I noticed that the bike idles well, however when i try to throttle it dies I got to my destination, hooked up the buelltooth dongle.. Still no errors. AFV is on 100%. I left the bike for about 2 hours, it's cool and everything seem to run fine again. | ||
| Johnshore |
cam position sensor? | ||
| Joshboyz |
Okay I need to replace that??? Or what do you think I do.? It's so strange that everything is back to normal once the bike is cold again | ||
| 1_mike |
Give the intake manifold/throttle bodies a check for leaks. With the engine running / idling, spray some carburetor cleaner (or Brakleen) at the manifold to cylinder head joints. If the engine rpm goes up...that's one of your problems. New o-rings are cheap. Mike | ||
| Akbuell |
What Mike said. And don't forget to pay attention to the fuel rail and where the injectors mount to the rail. A quick check: Take the bike for a ride, and when it starts acting up, open the fuel cap and ride some more. If the problem goes away, the fuel tank vent is clogged. Easy enough to check before doing the carb cleaner test. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Joshboyz |
I went riding today, after few miles bike started sputtering again. I took off the fuel cap and rode some more miles. And no changes, I also unplugged the BAS however no change. See video here https://youtu.be/M7GWE-B9nm0 What else? | ||
| Johnshore |
A link from here that has another link also from here. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/789863.html#POST2554608 Its the tach needle that catches my eye | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you very much. All finger seem to be pointing to CPS. does anyone have link to where I can get one that'll fit this bike. I searched through ebay. I did not see any. | ||
| Johnshore |
https://st-paul-harley-davidson-buell.myshopify.co m/products/32443-04-genuine-buell-timing-sensor-as sy-all-2004-2007-xb-models-b1-p?rq=yr_2006~mk_buel l~md_ulysses-xb12x~yt_electrical-/-ecm-/-sensors-/ -lighting | ||
| Heavy18 |
I'm late to the game here but just wanted to share my recent experience: I was having what seems to be the same issue as you - terrible coughing and LOUD backfires but only after heating it up good. If I drove 70 on the freeway for 15-20 min it was a sure thing. After acting up if I drove it at 40-45 in 5th gear the problem would slowly go away and never return as long as I kept it at that speed/RPM. I was also thinking CPS but when I opened up the cover it was obviously very new... I bought the bike with this issue existing so I'm fairly certain the previous owner had gone down the CPS route already. That led me back to the ECM. When I bought the bike my ECM had marks on it from the seat and I had already re-positioned it however the damage was already done. When I cut it open I could see about 2/3 of the solder joints had visible fractures (most were only visible with a magnifying glass). I work in manufacturing and I new that since I've never had formal training I would not be able to re-solder the joints sufficiently. The only way to know for sure was a new ECM. I bought an ECM on eBay - new in box - installed, performed a TPS reset and my problem was immediately, 100% eliminated. (I got the ECM for $250 shipped which is about what the CPS was going to cost.) MY OPINION: If you know you had solder fractures I HIGHLY recommend a new ECM. Another option is to have a certified solder tech re-solder all the joints, not just the ones with visible cracks. But if your problem persists there is no real way of knowing it still isn't an ECM issue - the only way to truly rule out the ECM is with a known good unit, either new or out of a good-running bike. BTW, if you are a certified solder tech, then by all means carry on good sir! | ||
| Evilphoton |
the guy that had my bike before me bought it new and it was a pain in the ass the whole time. i’m at sea level. the only thing that worked was richened both fuel maps 1% and also enrichen the cold start options. i can post a pic of my settings if you want. it solved my problem. i had chased everything.. grounds, voltage drop/resistance tested all the wires, new ecu/coil, etc.. replaced from the top of the throttle body to the heads - including using those flanged james gaskets, no change. | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you, I really appreciate everyone's input on this. I got a delivery of a CPS today. Throw it in a went for a ride. Sadenly the issue still persist. However when a spray with a freeze spray.. It works for about 10min. I initially had issue with the bike cos it will always blink red light. I took out the ECM and soldered the joints. It wasn't neatly done though.. Another thing was the CPS I got from ebay was a used one... It had a little crack on it. I don't know if this is bad and I need to return or I spend some buck on another ECM. | ||
| Joshboyz |
 Here is the picture | ||
| Blake |
You really need to rule out a possible intake manifold leak. | ||
| Joshboyz |
Yeah, I will do this next. However just a bit skeptical because the bike runs very well in the first 15 to 20 miles of riding. And goes gaga after it's hot. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
"... goes gaga after it's hot." Are you getting an engine temp sensor error code? Hughlysses mentioned the ETS in your prior thread, and they ARE a known failure point, but I didn't see you mention if you had changed it. You might have had multiple problems causing multiple compounded symptoms. Finding and fixing wiring issues and solder joints, (and hat's off congratulations to you for finding them), doesn't mean you don't also have a bad ETS. Check for error code 14 Even if it's not throwing a code, years ago Al Lighton from American Sport Bike posted Buell tech advice somewhere on Badweb, and the one I remember most is, "Unless proven otherwise, it's probably the Engine Temp Sensor." I've replaced two on My S3 in the 12 years I've had it, ( its the same part as the one on your XB). | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you for your response.as regards the ETS I did not get any error code on the buelltooth dongle. For the skip spark.i took apart the ECM and resoldered the joints that looked broken. Then the blinking stopped. I'm not a solder guru but then maybe I need to start looking into getting an ECM.anyone with links should kindly assist. I also went ahead and did the intake seals test, kindly see results in this video https://youtube.com/shorts/yHTTN8Kd3TA?feature=sha re | ||
| Ducbsa |
See https://idspd.com/xcart/buell-products.html | ||
| Joshboyz |
A new ECM from idsp costs about 500USD without shipping and tax. I'm not too buoyant on that at the moment.i hope to grab one off eBay for test | ||
| Heavy18 |
I found a brand new one on eBay for ~$250 shipped. That’s not normal but if you have time you can find them. (I don’t think mine was listed as new for some reason, but it literally was in the factory box.) If you had decent results re-soldering (it seems like you had some improvement?) then go back in and re-solder ALL the joints while you’re looking for a good deal on an ECM. You can have micro fractures in solder joints that are only visible with an X-ray magnifying machine. I have witnessed first-hand the erratic behavior such imperfections can cause. So even if you can’t “see” issues they may be there. Re-solder all the joints you haven’t touched and see if there is any change. Lastly, if you buy used, I would not buy one not from a Uly. The Uly factory positioning made it so they have the most problems. Do your research but I think as long as you get one with the same part number it should work and you can load your saved file to it from your existing ECM. | ||
| Heavy18 |
Also, make sure you try searching eBay and the internet by your ECM part number as well - I did that for my part number (Y0152.3A8A) and found this on eBay | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thanks.however Heavy18, so i understand you. Do you mean I should buy only ECM meant for Uly? I bought the bike with a race ecm installed. | ||
| Heavy18 |
No. I think you should find the same part number ECM, and if you buy it used, do NOT get one from a Uly. Find one from a XB12S or SS or SCG. Any used ECM from a Uly will be subject to premature failure because of the factory placement and the pressure the seat puts on the connectors. If you have not read up on this issue, here is some information: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/629631.html?1303991777 http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/ 681187.html?1337919288 | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you Heavy18. However I couldn't get any used ECM for scg that was available to be shipped to my country. So luckily I got one from a parted xb12x so I sent the buyer a message asking for history of the ECM and why he is parting the bike. He was very convincing with pictures to show bike health. Anyway i got the ECM and also he added a baro sensor. I hooked up the sensor and the ECM... And went for a ride... I noticed there were lots of backfire then I presumed I'll need a TPS reset. I rode for about 1hr and I did not get the usual issues I had.. On my way home. I got a check engine light... I immediately parked, hooked up the Buelltooth and the error I got was "Rear 02 always lean" I also noticed the fan refused to start. I did a fan test via the ECM Droid. And i confirmed fan was working. Today I decided to do a TPS reset following this https://youtu.be/k9ims6fXZ1E however when i was done setting to 1000-1300RPM the TPD was around 4.1-4.3° instead of 5.5°.  | ||
| Sagehawk |
Joshboyz, i shared about my experience with a cps that toasted itself on my roadking on another thread. what is the whitish looking pile of goop on that thing in your picture? Ive been told any cracking, splitting, melting , etc. on any portion of the cps its bad. some say that when bike is acting up, if you have a way to chill cps while running and symptoms go away, problem solved. not sure of chilling agent now that world has changed so much. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Joshboyz, i shared about my experience with a cps that toasted itself on my roadking on another thread. what is the whitish looking pile of goop on that thing in your picture? Ive been told any cracking, splitting, melting , etc. on any portion of the cps its bad. some say that when bike is acting up, if you have a way to chill cps while running and symptoms go away, problem solved. not sure of chilling agent now that world has changed so much. | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you Sagehawk. I just replaced the CPS, my question now.. I was hoping to get a 5.5° on TPD instead I got 3.9°. When do I need to do a static timing reset | ||
| Sagehawk |
Ive always had a lower than 5,5 on my tpd. the static timing setting is motor off. i have always noticed in timing maps that first six boxes or so in timing maps have been zero. some say that raising those values will help idle quality. Ive thought that with a dial back timing light , see what it is at a idle with light. perhaps a bit of trouble but another way of checking timing to see if you are correct or what needs changing. a baseline if you will. ive only checked mine onetime and then with ids upgrade , its like why check anymore? bike seems to run fine, A bit fat on jetting. sluggish perhaps but no pinging, no decel pop , starts good and revs through range ok. Im happy, mileage ok , so all is allright with the world. Havent pulled plugs for check but wth? | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you Sagehawk, I got a used ECM from ebay, this ECM was activated to use the baro sensor. So the seller sold the baro sensor to me. After replacing I went for a ride.. And there were alot of decel pops. I did a tps reset and the decel pop minimized. Sometimes it happens only on the first gear.. I went for a long ride.. I noticed the bike has this kind of sound from gear.. Like when you try to take off from 2nd or 3rd gear that stallings and ping sound.. However the bike is on the first gear. This happens when the bike is hot. Another thing I adjusted on the bike was FAN. With the new ECM the fan started way much longer than expected so I just copied from the old to the new ECM | ||
| Joshboyz |
Okay guys thank you very much for the help so far. Although I have few questions. 1. How do i check static timing to be sure everything is fine.are there any troubleshooting guide I can use. 2. I took my bike today for riding after a long ride I noticed I wasn't able to do beyond 120km/hr.. no matter what I tried.. I was able to redline on first gear and second... however on the 3rd gear it's impossible to get past 120km/hr. Here is a video attached https://youtu.be/ecrKFoilW3U | ||
| Joshboyz |
Checking the error codes. I found Rear 02 always lean error |
