| Author | Message | ||
     Paulp1125cr |
So I am on a trip with my 2009 1125cr had a great couple days through Vermont and new Hampshire. I stop in providence to visit family for a couple days and my check engine light and battery light come on!! So here I am stuck here in providence trying to figure out how to get back to Ontario Canada?? Local Harley dealer has a stator for 700$ but would assume it's the same as the one I have. This is the second time since I purchased the bike in 2009. Anyone have any idea's on what I should do to get this bike home. | ||
| Pgh_biker |
I have seen where a guy strapped a car battery on the bike and ran cables down to the existing battery to keep the bike running all day , then charged it back up over night to keep it going. may not be pretty but may work? | ||
| Pgh_biker |
strap a car battery on n charge it overnight when you stop to get it home | ||
| Dennis_c |
Pull fuse or disconnect the head light a friend of mine drove 400 miles like that with a marine battery deep cycle never charged it over night. | ||
| Captjoe |
I got mine towed from the east side of Algonquin Park to downtown Toronto when my stator went because it was Saturday night and all the dealerships were closed by then. Monday morning, had it towed to Barrie to get it serviced. Hooray for CAA Plus! | ||
| Froggy |
Precision Harley, which is likely the dealer you are at, had done good work for me in the past. While expensive, I'd have them throw the new stator in. Once you get back to Canada I'd deal with getting the solution permanently fixed, which involves getting the rotor cup modified to provide better oil cooling to the stator. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The fan would be the other big amp hours killer. Not sure how many amps a Buell uses at highway speed without the headlight on. That would be a useful thing to know. (Heck, once you got it started, you could buy a battery holder and use 8 or 9 D cells and power the bike... wonder how many miles that would go per battery set...) A wal-mart portable jump starter battery might be even better if you have some time. Charge it and the on bike battery in the morning, drive until both are dead, plug in, and go to bed. Dave Barr explored a substantial distance in Siberia this way (with headlight fuse pulled). | ||
| Froggy |
If you are disabling your headlight, you can't pull the fuse as the bike won't start due to a safety. You will need to remove the flyscreen and plug it there. | ||
| Coastrambler |
It is possible to disable the headlight by cutting a pin from the starter relay actuating relay. It provides 12V to the headlight until you hit the start switch at which time the 12v goes to close the starter relay. Starter relay carries the high current needed to drive the starter. On engine start you release the start switch and the 12v goes back to the headlights. I did this when I was waiting for parts last time the stator & VR failed. I could go about 25 miles on a full charge before CEL came on. Could put modified relay back in as the Aux relay, it doesn't use that contact. This relay is a genuine $5 made in Italy Harley-Davidson part. | ||
| Paulp1125cr |
Thanks guys, I managed to rent a truck to start heading home today.I did find a stator at precision (a Harley dealer) but it was 700$ which translates to about 850$ Canadian to much money for the unmodified rotor. Was looking forward to riding through Vermont on the way home. It was some of the best riding I've ever done!! | ||
| Paulp1125cr |
Does anyone have any pics or prints of the modified rotor? I am a machinist and would like to modify my rotor myself?? | ||
| Reepicheep |
It is a fairly precise EDM machined hole. It routes oil out of a port in the crank, so if you make it too big and you drop oil pressure to other critical parts, too small and you don't get enough oil out. I'm all for protecting intellectual property and paying people for hard work, but it would be nice to have measurements now that you can't buy the part from EBR anymore. | ||
| Froggy |
Twin motorcycles still offers the rotor exchange, unfortunately it just ends up being more expensive than the EBR one due to the exchange rate and shipping. http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=5318&cid=0&a=&aname=Buell_1125RCR_ Rotor_upgrade_with_oil_jet_ For the stator itself, Rick's Motorsports has one that is significantly cheaper than stock, and people seem to be happy with. http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/buell-stator That one is made overseas, but if you want to have one made in the United States they offer that for a little extra - http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-026USA /MDlCdWUxMTI1Ug== | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Paul...you can go here to see some DIY efforts on stator and rotor fixs: http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellstator/index.ht ml ...if you're a machinist of the 21st century, then you know about wire EDM machines and the diameter of the wire the machines use...it gives you a "hint" as to the size of the oil "port" between the main bearing and the inside of the rotor... | ||
| Dennis_c |
oil size hole is a #71 bit and .250 on the inside or the rotor. As you know that 71 is a very small hole it starts out at 1/4" about 1/2 way through then turns to a #71 hole there are pictures where to start the hole and end the end | ||
| Paulp1125cr |
Thanks guys, I'm not worried about precision I have EDM's at the shop I work at, this shouldn't be a big deal if I can see a print or get a good description | ||
| Nuts4mc |
if you use the google search at the top of the page...it becomes very helpful...you might find a post like this one with pictures! http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 665658.html hope this helps...best of luck | ||
| Bubba_ |
yup thats a helpful little discussion there it makes me wanna modify my own rotor... it dont look that hard.  (I know - I know) |
