| Author | Message | ||
     Evanj11 |
I got an '05 Blast recently and I am getting close to the first service interval. Would it be alright if I did it(engine oil, trans. & primary adjustment spacer removal) a bit early? I have been riding it everyday and it would be easy to do it at the 800 mile mark this week. Since it is a 2005, I hope (?) the oil has been changed already. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Go ahead. Couldnt hurt if its a 2005., better safe than sorry! Use synthetic in the engine and trans, if possible. Use a minimum of 20w-50 in the engine. 10w or 15w is not sufficient protection and the engine will use it up quickly. | ||
| Bluv21 |
I picked up an 01 blast with just over 1000 miles. Since I didn't know what has already been done, I found that it was worth my piece of mind to do it all regardless to get her running the way she's supposed to. | ||
| Evanj11 |
Great, I will do it all tomorrow, and no issues with removing the spacer either? I grabbed three quarts of V-Twin 20w-50 M 1 today and I'm going to stop at the Harley dealer to grab the filter tomorrow. I've read a lot of the info on here, hopefully it will go smoothly. Is there any other things I should grab ... o-rings, seals or similar stuff? Service manual info seems scattered, or maybe that is just me  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Once you loosen the bolt, spacer comes right out. I assume you've read the threads on adjusting the chain. The filter should be available at most auto part stores. You should have everything you need. Replacing any gaskets or O-rings isnt usually necessary. Uh, are you replacing the primary fluid the easy way or the hard way? You might need a clutch cover gasket if you're going the long way. Primary takes 1 quart. Oil change takes 1 1/2 quarts. Yes, 1.5 qts. Get it hot before checking it again. 2 quarts will be overfilling it. | ||
| Evanj11 |
Have not read the threads on adjusting the chain, but I'll do that next. All I saw was Fram filters for motorcycles at the auto store. [just found the filter cross reference in the knowledge vault, will search around tomorrow] Didn't know there was two ways - I saw a video on youtube and read this: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/2 0873.html I am all for an easy way. | ||
| Bluv21 |
You can buy a compatible filter at walmart. I got the bosch filter and I try to avoid the dealer as far as possible. You might want to inspect the boot too just to be sure you don't have to replace it. Also check out the air filter. it might be nasty dirty or dried and cracking after sitting for so long. Unfortunately, the only suitable stock replacement that I found was K&N and that will run you $40+. Also I replaced the drain plug o ring when i drained the primary fluid. The one on there was pretty much destroyed. (Message edited by bluv21 on April 04, 2012) | ||
| Evanj11 |
Air filter looks fine, checked it when I took off the air box looking for the source of a slight oil dribble - pcv deal. Check the boot? From what I've read it would be noticeable while running if bad, right? So I read up on adjusting the primary, it appears that there's a lot of methods, but basically I am not supposed to follow the service manual on this one, but turn out 8 flats? | ||
| Bluv21 |
That little bit of oil is normal for the blast. The Airbox is a "catch can" if you will. Concerning the boot, all I am saying is to have a visual inspection of it with a flashlight. Any signs of cracks or "dryness" and you should probably take it off and inspect it closer. Concerning the primary, I used the sound method and adjusted it while it was running. | ||
| Evanj11 |
Do I need to remove the muffler (stock one) to remove the transmission drain plug? I have it sitting on the stand right now - plug is threaded all the way out, but just sitting there, can't get it. (Message edited by EvanJ11 on April 04, 2012) | ||
| Swampy |
You shouldn't have to remove the muffler, I know it is tight but it can be wiggled out of the little space. Good luck, have fun! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Let it sit there. Thread it back in after the oil is drained. There isnt any point in fighting to get it out. Clean it off with some spray cleaner. Try not to damage the o-ring and DO NOT overtorque the drain plug or adjuster bolt. Its aluminum and will strip easy. 8 flats is good for a relatively new Blast. Its advisable to learn the "by ear" method. Adjust it per the manual first, then after its warmed up try doing it by ear. The repair manual will get you close. Finishing it off "by ear" will get you as close as you can get (barring some bizarre involved procedure). You've got a stock exhaust, so you wont have a problem hearing the difference. I have a very loud exhaust and I can hear the difference! Remember, all you're doing by turning the bolt in is pressing a plastic shoe against the chain. The shoe stops the chain slap. If you hear whirring, that means you're pressing too hard on the chain and there isnt any 'slap' (or slack, looseness). As you turn the bolt out you'll hear it start to clack. That means you have slack and thats the chain slapping against the shoe. You're trying to find that happy medium between the two. Lastly, the shoe is spring loaded which helps minimize noise and slack. The "8 flats" is backing it off to let the spring to its job and compensate for chain stretch (which is uneven). Takes practice. But once its done right, you wont have to worry about adjusting it for a long time! After initial break-in and as long as you arent abusive. Its the same chain they use on the twins, so its built for a lot more power. | ||
| Evanj11 |
*&#*!!! that was kind of a pain Everything was torqued according to the service manual (...even the foot peg bracket bolts  ) haah, socket - universal joint - two extensions - adapter - massive torque wrench What a mess, whoever dreamed this up had stock in the obscure tool market. I got out the claw foot and everything. I ended up taking out the rear exhaust bolts and doing the pry with a stick technique to get it out - wouldn't go any other way. It is all back together now, shifts a little better too. Thanks for all the help. Oil change went a lot smoother. I got a Bosch D3311 oil filter, couldn't find the supertech at walmart. I was hoping that the fluid changes would have eliminated a slight ticking noise coming from the engine, but it is still there. I will put up a video of it running if it keeps bothering me. (Message edited by EvanJ11 on April 05, 2012) | ||
| Roblast |
When do you get the ticking noise? I've had a ticking noise that I can't seem to get rid of. I only notice it when I'm at a higher end of a gear. Most noticeable in 3rd gear & I'm doing about 40. If I let off the throttle, the noise stops. Give it gas and it comes right back. I've adjusted the primary, verified the timing, checked the oil, changed the spark plug... I'm stumped. I've been told that it's normal valve train noise. Is this true? It doesn't seem to be located specifically on either side of the bike. | ||
| Bluv21 |
FYI with torque wrenches. If you use extensions or universal joints, you will not get an accurate torque reading. The reason is that some of that torque is absorbed by stress on the U joint assembly. The longer the extension, the more torque is absorbed by the "twisting" of the extension. So it is possible to over-torque using these U joints and extensions. If possible, try to avoid these attachments if you use a torque wrench. | ||
| Evanj11 |
Ticking noise is always there, it isn't that pronounced. It actually seems to lessen at higher speeds. I will try and upload a video soon - the issue is that I don't remember hearing it when I first got the bike. Bluv: that makes sense, however I don't see any way to get at those nuts without a u joint. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Yeah I know I just went through that. All I am saying is to avoid any extensions wherever possible where torque is critical. I am a mechanical engineer for a major aircraft manufacturer and the final assembly line HATES when assembly instructions call for a torque wrench coupled with extensions because its just not accurate. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Also about the ticking noise. Check the exhaust clamp flange. It may be loose. Exhaust coming out of the exhaust port can make a clicking noise | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Now that you've performed the Blast owner right of passage by removing the Y-frame, here's the easy way of fluid change: Drain the fluid when hot. ALL the fluid, not just a dump & plug. Refill through the transmission vent hose. It takes 1 quart. Done. Now this method might take as long as doing it the long way because filling though the vent hose is slow. But its far less labor intensive. Now will follow the inevitable argument of how it doesnt take a full quart. I've done it both ways many, many times, following exactly how the repair manual states how it is to be done and it takes one quart. And I have had rearsets on the bike so long I didnt have to bother with any y-frames, so I was free to do it either way, easily. Save yourself the trouble and do it the easy way next time. Better to change the fluid often than to avoid it because its such an involved time consuming process. Transmission repairs involve complete engine teardown (which means almost complete bike disassembly), so change it regularly and use quality fluid. | ||
| Evanj11 |
It took one quart to get up to where the service manual said. I am a little concerned though - the image in the manual looked a little different than what I saw in there.. The Mobil 1 V twin 20w-50 I put in the transmission has made shifting smoother too. How often would you recommend changing the fluid in there? I have put on over 500 miles in the last week. About to put on another 100+ tomorrow when I go climbing in Red Wing Minnesota. A lot of people take the cruise down there just for the scenery. Should be enjoyable  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Every other oil change, or 5000 miles, since you're using synthetic (which is per the manual anyway). If you werent using synthetic I'd do it with every oil change. Because of its labor intensive procedure, I'm sure many just put it off. The picture in the manual is rather subjective. But you put in a quart, it only takes a quart, it looks right, so there isnt any point in adding more! | ||
| Evanj11 |
Got off my bike to hike up to the climbing area today and noticed tiny streaks of oil coming from the transmission drain plug and the inspection cover ... I torqued them to mid range spec  should I torque to the maximum recommendation? Wind was gusting 28+ mph on the way back. It was my first time ever experiencing that, wow. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you use a new inspection cover gasket? (you might need a new gasket-did both gaskets look the same) Were the areas clean before assembly? (might be residual oil streaking) Was the O-ring intact on the drain plug? (you can add some teflon tape to the drain plug for a better seal). Increasing the torque might help, but make sure you dont go over. | ||
| Evanj11 |
The gasket never actually came off. It looked new. I wiped any extra oil away after filling. O-ring looked fine too. There was some white stuff on the threads of the plug. Should I be using loctite on any of this stuff? I guess I will do the teflon tape next time around. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No Loctcite. The cover bolts will seize up on their own! But next time you'll only need to pull the drain plug anyway. A little RTV or Hi tack (depending on which gasket you had) and you can usually reuse the cover gasket as long as you cleaned it first. Some times you can get away without sealer, but in this case you didnt. | ||
| Evanj11 |
The gasket is black - not sure what other info would specify which gasket I have. Last time I put a metal rod through the center of the rear axle and then put the rod on jack stands to stabilize - is there any reason to not do it that way? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There are 2 different gaskets. One is a rubber "o-ring" type gasket. The other is a flat "paper" type gasket. I dont think there is a 3rd type except for the usual updates in quality. The metal rod way is a perfect stand. Just dont sit on the bike and bend both ends of the rod! | ||
| Bluv21 |
When I pulled my cover off, there was a gray rubber seal on the back side of the cover but no black gasket. I was confused at first because the service manual says to change the gasket but the rubber seal seemed to be fine. | ||
| Evanj11 |
Haah! Good call on not sitting on it, I probably would have ended up doing that eventually.. Are we talking about what is referred to as a "quad ring" in the service manual? Mine was stuck to the engine and looked to be the paper type. Maybe I will just go to the dealership tomorrow and grab a new gasket(quad ring). I need to take the cover off again to do the 1,000 mi. clutch adjustment anyways. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Yes the quad ring. Mine is gray rubber and pretty durable and I did not see a need to put a gasket in addition to the quad ring. Maybe they cheaped out on the later models of the Blast? Mine is an 01. |
