Needed tools:
Something to hold your bike vertical. I used two jack stands and a piece of rod going through the rear axle to support my bike.
More than one T27 torx wrench/socket bit, unless you have a really strong bit/wrench like SnapOn.
3/8 drive ratchet with long extensions and universal sockets or adapter, and a swivel come in handy.
7/16 O-ring, incase your drain plug O-ring needs replacing (mine was completely severed)
The job isn't as easy as it ought to be.
There's a clutch inspection cover plate just behind the left foot peg. It has 3 Torx #27 screws holding it on. These screws are notorious for being difficult to remove. Most people end up stripping them. You're gonna want to have 3 or more different T27 torx wrenches.
Another poster recommended wrenches from ACE Hardware. Personally, I twisted and broke a couple of torx bits when I did my fluid replacement. I used a bit and a cheap ratchet and tapped on the head of the ratchet with a hammer at the same time as applying turning force to break the screws free. You definitely need to use the correct size wrench and push it firmly down into the screw head or you will strip out the screw for sure.
Before you can remove this cover plate though, you need to:
1. disconnect the battery (neg. first)
2. remove the drain plug on the bottom of the crankcase. (difficult if you have the stock muffler.) Tip: A plastic gallon milk jug cut in half on a vertical with the handle down - then use the handle half of the jug as a funnel/catch for the trans oil.
3. loosen the 3 footpeg support bracketfoot pe nuts. In order to access these, remove the seat and the battery. They are located inside the frame where the foot peg support bracket connects to the backbone/frame. I can't remember what size the nuts were. You'll be in pure expletive spurting agony if you don't use a ratchet w/ long extension and universal/swivel sockets/adapter to get these nuts. You want to loosen these nuts as far as you can without them coming off from the studs, this will loosen the foot peg support bracket enough so that you can access the clutch cover plate screws.
Remove clutch cover.
4.Replace the drain plug of course. (Make sure you clean all of the little bits of metal off the magnet)
5. Refill the trans fluid with HD Sport Trans fluid 7/8 to 1 qt.(You may want to consider switching to Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil and Redline 75/90 weight tranny oil at this point). I found that a funnel along with a short piece of hose worked well to get the fluid in through the clutch inspection cover opening. When you look through the opening you'll see the teeth of a large gear. The correct fluid level is to just barely submerge the bottom most tooth, such that the fluid reaches up to the bottom of the troughs on each side of the tooth.
6. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces between the gasket and cover plate. The factory service manual says to replace the inspection cover gasket.
7.Replace (don't forget the spring) the cover and tighten the Torx screws in a cross patern to 7-9 Ft-lbs. (I patterppersonally switched to allen head screws replacing the t-27 headed ones;0))
8. Tighten bolts of foot peg support bracket.Done.
Please Note!!!!!!
Do not use gear oil as pictured above, it has been proven to have sulphates that will hurt the wiring in the primary. Use a good synthetic 20/50 motor oil and you'll be fine.
Thank you
