| Author | Message | ||
     John_s |
I have a 1997 M2 with low miles. Clutch lever has tension and is adjusted correctly. Bike shifts in to 1st, N, 2nd without clutch engaged. No slipping noted. Any ideas what broke? Any suggestions? thanks. | ||
| Blake |
I'm not sure that I understand your problem. Are you saying that you cannot engage the drivetrain by releasing the clutch lever, that no matter what gear the bike is in it will sit and idle with the clutch engaged (clutch lever released)? If so, you may have a broken primary chain or a broken drive belt, or a broken clutch basket assy, or a problem with your shifter pawl/detent plate assembly. How does the shifter action feel if you work it through the gears from 1st up through 5th? | ||
| John_s |
you are right Blake. the hand lever is out and i rev the engine but it does not go. I took off the left cover. Primary chain is ok, the shift lever/pawl engages from what i see. I haven't messed with the basket yet since i wanted to know what to look for before taking more things apart. It just makes more things to put back. The rear drive belt is ok but i have to spend more time seeing if the drive sprocket has a bolt plate or key that might have stripped. | ||
| Road_thing |
The drive sprocket (pulley) is on a shaft with splines, and it's held on by a big ol' nut and a lock plate. If the nut loosens up, the splines can strip--never mind how I know this--but they make a bad grinding noise on the right side of the motor when they go. Hope this helps. rt | ||
| Sparky |
What RT says. There were a few drive sprockets in the '96 & '97 runs that could strip out their splines for whatever reason, bad supplier batch, poor heat treating, I don't know, but that is something to checkout. If that is it, most likely the transmission shaft is OK and a new sprocket will fix it. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Sparky,S-2's were prone to this. I met Gordon Buhle this way on the side of the road in 1996 when his pulley went away. Nothing was loose but IIRC the "updated" pulley has more contact area on splines. When I checked my bike it was good and tight--and headed towards the same failure. Replaced under warranty. | ||
| John_s |
Thanks Firemanjim. What is IIRC? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
If I Remember Correctly (IIRC) (Message edited by bluzm2 on October 16, 2007) | ||
| Bad_karma |
Yeah my 96 S1 spun the teeth right off the pulley while I was riding. Going down a hill all was OK powered up to go up hill and nothing but revs. That nut that holds the pulley is left handed threads. Joe | ||
| Bad_karma |
John If you have the problem corrected what was the failure and how was it corrected? Joe | ||
| Blake |
I'm curious too! PM sent.  | ||
| John_s |
I took off the rear drive belt front pulley cover and removed the 2 Allen bolts. The lock plate spins around the nut and the sprocket is wiggles on the shaft. I'm guessing the splines went at <10K miles with no burnouts and maybe 95 hp. I need to get the socket and repair. I know, I know, heat up the red Loctite and left hand threads! cheers. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Thanks for keeping us updated. So is it the splines in the pulley or on the shaft? Joe | ||
| John_s |
sorry, not enough time to repair yet. i'll post the update as soon as i get done. | ||
| John_s |
Had a chance to look at bike. Removed lock plate and nut, came off easy with heat and impact gun. Pulley has no splines whatsoever, they are are totally worn off. I figure the plate and nut were what was driving the bike for a while! Did someone say the stock part has now superseded twice and is ok? Any aftermarket recommendations? Anyone change gearing? Thanks. | ||
| Mikej |
There is the Euro gearing vs the U.S. gearing, not sure of the tooth counts though or what is needed to ensure your stock belt length is still sufficient. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, The US stock belt is good for up to 30 teeth, maybe higher. I've put on 29 and a 30 just for grins once. Went back to the 27. The 29 will be used on the Great Salt Dyno Stock is a 27. | ||
| Blake |
Thanks for the update John. | ||
| John_s |
Blake, you seem to be the man. Are you aware of an increased spec on the OEM part? You recommend any aftermarket brands? I'll probably leave the gearing (can you say that with a belt and pulleys?) stock. I really don't ride fast and need top end. The Thunderstorm heads, V&H exhaust, and Force air cleaner help midrange. Thanks. | ||
| Bad_karma |
John If you want to improve your acceleration you can get a 26 front pulley. But if you want a little more cruising rpm try the 26/55 pulley combo. It's good for about 300 rpm reducing at 65 mph.These are buell pulleys, but American Sport Bike has options as does J&P. Joe | ||
| Firemanjim |
US gearing was either 27/61 on S-1's etc and 29/61 for S-2's and some S-3's. Euro gearing was 29/55 and is a dog for accelleration. Also needed different axle adjusters to take up extra length. Aftermarket makes front pulleys--26,28, and 30. I am running the 26/61 but have a Baker 6 speed so my freeway rpm is still lower than stock. | ||
| Blake |
John, I only "seem" that way sometimes, but not really and not all the time. I'm plenty ignorant!  I may vaguely recall an improvement being made to the sprocket some fairly long time ago, but that may just be my imagination. A Buell dealer or someone more knowledgeable than me should be able to tell you. | ||
| John_s |
Not to worry, I am the same way! I'll look in to it. There are bunch of aftermarket that look good. Why put a part back on that failed once already? | ||
| Bad_karma |
Jim Sounds like first gear should be strong with 26/61 and the Baker first gear. Joe | ||
| John_s |
Finally getting around to putting the new sprocket/pulley on. Does anyone know another way to lock up the sprocket and keep it from spinning when doing that last 45 degrees of torque, other than buying the HD 41321 special tool? thanks. | ||
| Blake |
Cut yourself your own tool, even a piece of wood can work if you are careful. I cannot recommend either of the following but... Some have crammed a rag between chain and sprocket. Some have used an impact wrench with torque calibration adjustment. | ||
| Blake |
I thought you were talking about the clutch sprocket/hub being this is a clutch thread. Apparently from your other/duplicate post, you are talking about the secondary drive sprocket that drives the belt. In that case, shift the transmission into 5th gear, have someone stomp on the rear brake, and if needed, use an impact wrench. | ||
| John_s |
thanks Blake, someone local said the same thing about 5th gear. i posted both places since this was where i started the thread but will leave it on the correct one. | ||
| John_s |
Finally finished the repair and did the 60 mile shake down run. It was the drive sprocket splines being stripped out. Put on the American Sport Bike part which turned out to be the stock Buell part- even came to me in the Buell box with part number label on it! Bike runs great. thanks to all for your interest. |
