| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
Engine sprocket seal installation: I'm sorry to say that I failed miserably first time around. I, of course, prefer to think it's because the new seal design really does require the correct tool, and not because of my lacking mechanics skills  The pipe thing, the oversize socket thing etc. did not work for me - doesn't mean it can't be done... So I called Manchester HD&B, and Shawn in the service dept. was very helpful: found the part # for the tool (it comes out of a different catalogue than regular parts), got the parts dept. on the case, and they ordered the tool end for me. I'm going to try without the overpriced handle ... I'm hoping I'll have the tool sometime this week, and will post a description and pictures when I get working. Henrik | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Thanks Henrik. Has anyone accomplished it succesfully with the new seal and a homemade tool ?  | ||
| Moderator |
Fastener sub-topic created in the Knowledge Vault  | ||
| Mikej |
So we should probably avoid the one created on the Quick Board.  | ||
| Caboose |
Newbie question here......When checking the primary chain tension do you simply remove the inspection cover, and with the rear wheel off the ground, bike in neutral, wiggle the chain up and down? Repeat this in 3-4 different spots on the chain? The free play is supposed to be 3/8" to 1/2" when cold? When I took a look at my 2001 X1 chain tonight, it was showing a vertical free play of around 1.25" cold? The bike has just over 8000km on it, the primary was adjusted by the dealer during its "break-in" tune-up 7000km ago. | ||
| Wet4uracing |
can someone please explain to me why I have sheared off the bolts holding the alternator rotor to the primary drive sprocket..............for the second time  stuart | ||
| Wet4uracing |
btw I am also after a replacement stator and rotor. stuart smungomery@bigpond.com.au Text  | ||
| Hans |
Caboose, it is as simple as that. After adjusting you will ask where that sizzling sound is gone, you are already accustomed to, with that kind of freeplay. Hans. | ||
| Dana |
Caboose, When you adjust your chain, make sure you check it in several spots. Use the 3/8 to 1/2 free play adjustment on the "tightest" part of the chain. This does work to your advantage, later when you are checking the chain. Once you find that tight spot again and it's within specs, you're done. Logically the chain shouldn't get any tighter as it wears. I put my bike in 5th gear and push the bike forward a little, check, push, check etc. Dana | ||
| Caboose |
Thanks guys. I'll be adjusting it today. | ||
| Peter |
Stuart (just noticed you're an Ozzie too!), Have you got the latest version with 8 bolts instead of 4? PPiA | ||
| Wet4uracing |
Peter, Yeah mate,hows it going? Both my rotors were of the 4 bolt variety.Are there any other differences to look for,and should I just use a std replacement?Thanks for your help.....stu  | ||
| Peter |
Stu, It's going OK over here in Amsterdam. As far as I know, it's the standard replacement now. I'd check with the dealer though and tell him you want the 8 bolt one. Maybe you can just buy the sprocket, and drill 4 more holes in the rotor? PPiA | ||
| Rempss |
Henrik, How did the new seal go with the tool? Picked up the double lip seal you spoke of. It seems as thought the 1 1/4" PVC couplings would work, just keeping the thing square in the recess. The double lip seal outside flange is covered in rubber, the single has an exposed metal flange, wonder why 2 changes?  Now I need to get a single to compare!! Jeff | ||
| Ccryder |
Hey Buelligans, have I got a good one for you. I rode Stripe'r Sunday for a nice 70 miles twisty and went home a little more content than before. Yesterday morning rolled her out to go to work and fired her up. She sounded a little loud in the primary area so I checked the primary tension. Everything was ok. What the heck I'll try and go to work (35 miles away). About 5 miles waiting at a light Stripe'r sounde worse so I headed home. Took the Neon to work. Bottom line with much help from Mark R. (he took Stripe'r to the Dealer for me today in his truck while I hit STL) the verdict is in from my main Technician Dennis. The flanged nut on the crank holding the front pully and rotor is broken! Part of the flange broke off and the nut was cracked! The broken part was laying in the bottom of the primary just as pretty as please. So for $50 (deductable) and a nut (Thank you Doc's in STL) Stripe'r will be back on the road this week. This nut gets torqued to something like 200+ft/lb and it broke(HUH)! Anybody else have this happen?? This was not the locking nut that was in the SB. So it's time to head for home, let me know if anyone has had a similar experience. Later Neil S. | ||
| Henrik |
Jeff; the seal install went well, and I just made a photo gallery/explanation - I just can't get it uploaded  Something funky in my network. I'll get it uploaded and post a link tomorrow. If the pipe couplings fit inside the groove in the seal facing out, then yes, it'll work. You'll see how I got the seal pressed in place quite easily. Henrik | ||
| Ccryder |
This is what a good nut should look like on your crankshaft:  Per the spec it should be torqued to 150-165 ft-lb. Pretty darn tight. Still the curious mind wants to know why mine broke. I am hoping that the Dealer will give me the offending nut and I will post the ugly picts. for the collective post-mortum. Later Neil S. | ||
| Jmartz |
Can the shift shaft seal be replaced w/o removing the primary cover? I just changed the oil and inspected the shoe and replaced the seal but...its leaking! Obviuosly I did it wrong, I might even have installed it backwards. In any case I don't want to loose my $5 gasket and $9 oil for this annoyance. jose | ||
| Rempss |
Need to remove the primary cover. Get the double lip seal, now taht I see it, it's a better unit. Jeff | ||
| Henrik |
Engine shaft seal installation: This the link to my seal installation gallery. In short, had I known how deep (or shallow actually) the seal needed to go, I would have stopped pounding on the first seal a lot sooner, at which point the outer sealing lips might not have been damaged - i.e. possibly no need for the special tool. If you decide to rig something yourself, make sure your "tool" seats in the groove of the seal and use the engine sprocket nut to press the seal in place. Henrik | ||
| Rempss |
Thanks for the great photos, I think for $17 I would buy the tool next time myself. Jeff | ||
| Rempss |
Neil, The older 1997 book shows 150-165 ft/lbs, the newer 1999 shows 190-210 ft/lbs. Anyone know what changed other than the value? Is one wrong? Should we find out? Jeff | ||
| Seeeu911 |
great job Henrik ! | ||
| Fresh |
Henrik, Thx. for the excellent explanation. I will remember this when my time comes to do this job. Fresh | ||
| Fresh |
JMartz, Yes you can, Use a pointy dentist like pick to gently remove the damaged seal. Might need to make a little hole in the metal cap of the seal if you cannot get in between shaft and seal. I am sure it is possible. Did it once with a slightly larger damaged seal on a mopet when i was 16 and it worked for me. Install new seal but clean seating area very well. Fresh | ||
| Jmartz |
Thanks fresh, I'll give it a try...jose | ||
| Rempss |
Jose, Sorry I read "sprocket shaft", you wrote "shift shaft".  If dental pick is not available use a small adjustment screwdriver with the tip bent 90 degrees, made one of these years ago and have used it many times. When you put the new one on use a double layer of plastic wrap over the end until the seal is past the grooves, when it is on the smooth part of the shaft pull out the wrap. Use a deep well socket and tap on with you hand, maybe just needs to be seated farther? I put mine on with the flat metal side out, rubber on the inside. No leaks. Jeff | ||
| Reepicheep |
Henrik... browsed the rest of the site and read the "case of the month"... Total knee replacement, sounded cool until they said "generally done with an epidural". Epidural hell. Somebody needs to take a chainsaw to my femur, and I don't want to be any where NEAR awake. Geesh! | ||
| Rempss |
After looking at the sprocket shaft seal pictures a bit more, the 1 1/4" PVC pipe is probably just as good. The PVC does not not fit inside of the seal between the outer edge and the rubber seal, which looks like is what looks like it caused the damage. It is the same size as the outer metal flange, or rubber coated metal on the double lip seal. If I had time I would get the tool, if I needed it again in a pinch the PVC will work. Jeff | ||
| Ccryder |
ALright all you Metal Heads take a look at this metal failure and don't be shy (yeah sure  ):  Just from my litte metal back ground it seems like this was a pretty hard nut. But why would it fail like this??????? Just someone that's curious. ANyway Stripe'r sure runs great now. Time to run out between the tornados. Neil S. |
