| Author | Message | ||
     Whosbeenfartin |
So I got oil that appears to be coming from the cylinder base gaskets on the inside, not sure if its one or both. When I shut the bike down there is a tiny pool of oil along the valley formed by the cylinder to block angle. And right after the bike is shut down, tiny bubbles (think beer foam size) can be seen burping up through the gasket So how hard is this to fix? Could this clear up after just re torquing the head nuts? | ||
| Chasespeed |
So how hard is this to fix? depends, how mechanically inclined are you? You need to remove teh rocker boxes, then undo the 4 bolts holding each cylinder in place... Remnove the heads, and the jugs, reverse(simplified)... Chase} | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'll tell you all about it when I replace my base gaskets this winter. | ||
| Whosbeenfartin |
So what do I need, Head gaskets? Base gaskets (obviously) head nuts? Exhaust gaskets and hardware? What else should I do while I have the top end open? Valve job piston rings? etc | ||
| Lake_bueller |
How many miles on the motor? I did my S1W a few years ago. It turned into a full-on rebuild. Machined the cylinders and put in .05 pistons. Angle grind and polished heads with bigger valves & springs, etc, etc, etc. I did my S3T front cylinder this summer. I was VERY careful (with the assistance of a friend) when lifting the cylinder. You can remove the wrist pin while leaving the piston in the cylinder. Parts you'll need (probably not a complete list): Base gasket Head gasket Rocker box gasket Exhaust gaskets Intake gaskets (just a good idea while you have the head off). Retaining clips for piston pin Like I said...I probably forgot something. I'd recommend getting a service manual (if you don't already have one). Then read it CAREFULLY before starting. Make notes on parts that require replacement (it should be noted in the manual). This will save you time and agrivation on waiting for parts. Don't ask me how I know all this  | ||
| Whosbeenfartin |
Engine has about 15K miles. In my experience valves get weak long before rings on motorcycles, would that hold true with a buell? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
don't bother rebuilding the top end. mine has 80K on it now. just replace the gaskets and you're good to go. remember that you will have to hold up the engine when you remove the front jug. Mine's base gaskets are starting to leak now but I will most likely wait a few more thousand miles on it first. | ||
| Whosbeenfartin |
Ok, one more question before I order parts, is there a better set of gaskets then the factory set, the ones I am talking about are the head gasket and base gasket? Have the factory set been updated like most of the other gaskets on the bike? Mine is a 99 and the factory gaskets seem to be made of recycled newspaper. Ok so I guess this is two questions, some websites recomend lapping the bottom and top of the clyinder flat every time the base gasket is replaced, saying that a few thou off either (just enough to make it flat) won't effect compression. Any thoughts on this? (Message edited by whosbeenfartin on October 02, 2007) | ||
| Chasespeed |
Mine is a 99 and the factory gaskets seem to be made of recycled newspaper. Cometic Gaskets, dont know if the dealer stocks them though... Remove, replace, and put back together... If you just wanna stop the leaks, thats what I recommend... NOW, we can get into a whole other ball of wax if you want, BUT, it would require checking piston to valve clearance VERY CAREFULLY... Just give a quick glance at the cylinder walls... and the top AND bottom of the piston... Chase } | ||
| Kyrocket |
Be sure to change the oil pump gear while you're in there. $50 from American Sport Bike I think. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
With that lower mileage, don't be surprised if you see the crosshatch marks in the cylinders. I always wuss out and pay someone else to do the gasket job. I am on gasket set #2 now I think. original rings and all. | ||
| Chasespeed |
ith that lower mileage, don't be surprised if you see the crosshatch marks in the cylinders. Could still see cross hatch marks in my old cylinders... at 55k.... BUT, there was also a little bit of scoring in the rear cylinder as well... And changing the oil pump drive gear, involves removing the cma side cover..... BUT, as I found out... If you are going through all that trouble, REPLACE ALL GASKETS... Hell, also replace that crank seal as well.. If you still have the shady paper gaskets, just replace them all... cause, they will start leaking a couple months after you put it all back together... ask me how I know... Chase } (Message edited by chasespeed on October 03, 2007) | ||
| Brokeneck |
You can order the gaskets through NRHS -- | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've used Cometic gaskets on mine, no problems. The factory has updated the majority of the gaskets, too - no more paper, if your dealer gives you paper, give them back and get the new kits that have rubber seals for some places and metal MLS gaskets for the rest. Top to bottom, bare-bones list: Rocker box set Intake seals to heads Intake seal to carb pushrod O ring set (top and bottom) headgaskets base gaskets *If* you've noticed any vibration, you can get a front isolator mount too. Leave the front mount on the head, take it off the frame to remove the front head, that way you don't stress the mount threads in the aluminum head. Most dealer parts guys will get you everything you need if you say "I'm replacing the base gaskets on my Buell". If they look like deer in the headlights, say "Evo Sportster", same stuff gasket-wise. Also, we only charge 1/2 shop hour to cut gaskets off 2 jugs. If your local shop offers it, it's worth it to have a clean sealing surface. They can also check the bores for round at the same time. Leave the pistons on the rods unless you have signs of wear. Use zip ties to hold the rods centered between the cylinder studs so nothing hits or dings. Stuff rags in the bore holes in the case, and clean the gasket surface carefully with a scraper or razor blade. Do NOT use a roloc disc, you can put waves and dips in the surface. Buy or borrow a ring compressor tool to reinstall the jugs on the pistons, and make sure your torque wrench is calibrated...and torque to spec in order when you reassemble. Take your time, step by step, no problems. Just a V-twin, not the Space Shuttle, LOL. | ||
| Oldog |
Leave the pistons on the rods unless you have signs of wear. I thought that it is undesirable to remove rings from jugs after they break in. have I got that wrong? Please correct me on one other item do the pistons have locating pins in the ring grooves? | ||
| 01m2 |
My rear base gasket was leaking a little (18,000 miles). Oil use was 300-350 miles a quart. I suspected valve seals as she ran great. Pulled it apart. The pistons and cylinders looked great. I quizzed the mechanic who did the valve job about new rings. He indicated the rings rotated around the piston and if the end gap was within specs he would reuse them. Don't know if its true but I have read this in other materials. Well I was short on funds and decided to heed his advise. The end gap on my rings was within .002 of new and well below the replacement spec in the service manual so I decided to chance it. So far I have put approx 800 miles on it since and have not noticed any measurable oil use and it runs great. BTW removing the old base gaskets was a real chore. The new base gaskets from HD were a rubber covered metal. Remember to support the front of the engine when removing the front head. Frank | ||
| Whosbeenfartin |
hey 01m2 just curious if you checked your compression before the motor came apart? Thanks for all the input | ||
| 01m2 |
No I didn't. My compression tester did not adapt to 10 mm plug size. | ||
| Iamike |
Colin, I did a top end on my '99 at 38,000mi. My original compression was 179# and had dropped to 105#. The guy that helped me kept asking "Why", because it looked so good inside and didn't use oil. We did find a valve seal that was starting to leak. I wish that I would have taken pictures. Since then I haven't ever gotten close to 179#, it has stayed at 130# for 24,000mi. and still doesn't use much oil. The guy did say that he has replaced base gaskets by raising the cylinder until the pin is exposed and then remove it and leave the piston in the jug. | ||
| Kenb |
my S1 base gasket did that when i first got it so i replaced all the gaskets, about 6k later it blew a head gasket, on that teardown i measured the top surface of the cylinders and found the cylinder liner had creeped in the aluminum cylinder. apparently HD revised the design of the cylinders in 2000 to prevent this. the new design was called spiney-lock or something like that. 15k since then and it's as tight as a drum, the whole cylinder kit from HD cost about 400$, that included cylinders, pistons, rings, wristpins, and circlips. borrow or buy a machinists block and put it across the deck to make sure the liner is still where it's supposed to be. | ||
| Whosbeenfartin |
Hey Kenb, is the cylinder liner supposed to be flush with the top of the cylinder? I am assuming it must be, so it moved down, and that lead to the head gasket blowing is that correct? |
