| Author | Message | ||
     Af226 |
I was leaving the house this morning and got a few 100 feet noticed the bike was sounding weird and no power...'I leave early and try to get out of the driveway without waking the kids'. Turns out that the rear cylinder was cold. Return home and swap out the plugs with new NGK's and it fires up and wakes the neighbourhood?? This is the first time that it has happened to my the the plugs fouled out...the bike hasn't been riden in a month or more as I had back surgury on the 13 of Aug. Anything to be worried about as it was running fine before I parked it? I put stabil in the fuel...in all honesty I've started it a few(6) times in the month and let it idle and reving to get warm. Freaked my out to say the least. Guess its good that upon replacing the plugs it fires right up and ran like a champ. Its only 5min to get to work also. Could that be part of the problem as longer rides are out of the question right now. How long should a set of plugs last as these were new in May and I have only put on 400 miles? Is NGK alright or is champion/HD better. Tx for the help af226 | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Everything you talk about lends to fouling plugs.You need to keep a couple of sets handy and if you know anybody with a glass beader that can clean your old plugs would be nice. When you start it up in the mornings, try and use as little choke as possible.And any chance you get for a longer ride, take it. Leave 10 minutes earlier and take a different route to work if possible.........Charlie | ||
| Af226 |
What plugs are being run in the X1's. Is ngk alright? Is champion better? I've personally always run NGK but is there something better? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I always tell folks (and myself - I live 10 minutes from work so I have to leave time to go the "long" way) if you start the bike, make sure you can ride it for at least 20 minutes. Anything shorter and it doesn't fully warm up. Not fully warm equals plugs that aren't cleaned off, residual fuel in the chambers, etc. etc. Both my bikes are carb'd; the X1 can be just as bad as they put a ton of coldstart fuel into the programming on the earlier EFI systems. The simple rule is, if you start it...be sure to run it. It's more fun that way anyway, LOL. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
NGK plugs are going to be better than the Champion,IMO.No plug is going to hold up to your style of riding.You have got to stretch your commute time out so the bike can warm up. Pretty soon spark plugs are going to be the least of your problems. Your pistons, valves and guides are looking like your plugs and pretty soon your going to be looking at a tear down.This is a real warning, pay attention, the next warning is going to cost you.........Charlie | ||
| Chasespeed |
Which NGKs are you running? I stick with the DPR 9EA9 I had also used the DPR 8EA9(1 heat range hotter) The 9EAs, I used, lasted pretty good... Chase | ||
| Warlizard |
I like the Buell Pro-Series, can get them at local dealer. I try to use Buell products when possible. | ||
| Af226 |
I'm running the recommended DCPR8E. Is this not the right plug? Its what the books and NGK say to use? I guess I'll have to lengthen out the commute time to over 20mins. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Warlizard |
The NGK 8's may be too hot. The DCPR9E is the equivalent to the Harley 10R12, which is what Buell recommends. BTW the Pro-Series plugs are 10R12. | ||
| Chasespeed |
No, the 8EA is right... BUT, I would normally recommend the 9EA, but.. Are you running the Race ECM? Any airflow mods?(filter, pipe, etc)... My ride back and forth to work, is only 3 miles each way..approx 10 minutes including the wait at the gate... And I dont have issues... Chase | ||
| Mick |
Don't forget about condensation in the oil if you don't heat it up properly. You'll end up with rust on your bearing surfaces and crank ,and that'll be VERY expensive. | ||
| Af226 |
Its stock except for the V&H slip-on and a K&N filter in the breadbox...I also run Mobile 1 V-Twin oil. I guess run a little longer can't hurt...I was told never to let the bike idle either...on cold start up t it won't idle anyways, so I try to take it easy for the first few hundred meters  ..till I get on the main road. I think I'll stay with DCPR8E for now and see what happens. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Do you use the choke/enrichner to start the bike? That could be your problem. When they are properly jetted you should not need to use it and it will lead to fouled plugs. Have not had to use one to start my bikes since new.But did foul my plugs a couple times before I learned my lesson. | ||
| Chasespeed |
The bike wont idle? That isnt right, hell, mine kicks right off in 30* weather... I would say... Set your throttle plate at zero, and get a TPS reset... Go from there... And, I cant see how, you could run rich, with a V&H, and K&N, without the race ecm.. Chase | ||
| Ratbuell |
Give the poor guy a break on the choke questions...his profile says he rides an X1! +1 on the TPS reset though. Should make a world of difference; have them reset your idle as well. | ||
| Xldevil |
I'm commuting even in winter rarely for more than 10 minutes . Never had any fouled plugs nor have I rust on bearings because of condensation-which by the way is a ridiculous thought if you use your bike more than once in a decade. The oil will not emulgate on its own with the water and the bearings are well protected by the oil film that stays on their surfaces. Okay,the electrodes are black after such short rides,but the bike is starting up without any issues. At the present time I'm riding the NGK DCPR9EIX. Before I have been very satisfied with the Brisk BOR 12 LGS plugs. Ralph (Message edited by xldevil on October 02, 2007) | ||
| Af226 |
The tps and idle resets are done via software right? Ya, I have to hold the gas slightly to get the bike to warm up a little before it will idle....it seemed a little weird for fuel injected but it has always done it. I have never had any resets done to the bike in the 5 yrs I've had it. Maybe its due. This is also the first set of plug to foul out and seemed kinda goofy to me but sh*t happens sometimes. Mind u I did move back on base and the commute has gone from 30mins to 5-6mins so could be the problem. Also in the morning its -1 right now so getting a little cool for riding. Northern Canada sucks for riding wish I lived in year round riding climate. As for the resets how much should they cost at a dealership? Mine is 3hrs away so maybe getting the program from American Sport Bike would be a better idea. Has anyone used it? Do u use a regular home PC and a cable? af226 | ||
| Chasespeed |
You shouldnt have to hold the throttle for it to idle and warm up.. In the winter, I usually.. run to the garage, push the bike out, Fire it off(wake up the neighborhood), And go back inside to get dressed for a fast blast in freezing temps(usually about 3-5 minutes of idle warmup..) Chase | ||
| Xldevil |
That kind of "idle warm up" gives the most possible wear to an engine.IMHO it's a very bad idea. | ||
| Chasespeed |
That kind of "idle warm up" gives the most possible wear to an engine.IMHO it's a very bad idea. Believe it or not, I agree ... sorta... Identical bike, he liked to fire and go.. kept popping head gaskets... related? dunno.. How well does 20/50 flow in 18* temps? Even after 4 minutes of running, and a little throttle play, the oil was still only around 80 degrees..... In normal temps, I fire the bike off, zip up, put on the lid, my gloves, and go... nice and easy till I get to the stop light leading outta my 'hood, then its on... But, when its that cold... No worries.. The pump moves enough oil, to keep things lubed, and cool... Chase} |
