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Igneroid
| Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 04:21 pm: |
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The header on my M2 looks kinda cool, all straw colored and such, but the muffler(stock) looks like a dogs breakfast and it detracts from the otherwise cool lookin unit of a cycle. Anyhow, what do you clean them with, and whats a good aftermarket replacement that isnt so loud that I go deafer than I already am from too much loud music. I like the sound of my bike the way it is but that ugly can has got to go or atleast get cleaned up some how. I was thinkin Vance and Hines but mebey you guys know better?? |
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Zenfrogmaster
| Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 04:25 pm: |
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I like my V&H - it grumbles properly but isn't too loud. You can easily hold a conversation next to it at idle and it makes nice sounds as the revs go up. Mine is the carbon fiber version, and is holding up well after 32,000 miles. |
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Torquemonster
| Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 04:52 pm: |
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+1 Zenfrog...I love the sound of my V&H SS2R. Another plus, is that V&H offers great service. The end piece of the pipe broke off and V&H offered to send me a completely new muffler @ no cost to me. Im only holding off cuz I really dig the gurgle-gurgle sound it has now. Throatier than Linda Lovelace, man....Just my .02, though. |
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Nevrenuf
| Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 05:55 pm: |
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like the supertrapp because you can get anykind of noise out of it and totally tunable to how your bike is set up. from lean to mean, set it up the way you want it. |
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Crashbuell
| Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 06:08 pm: |
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I'm saving my money for a D&D muffler. I heard one on youtube and I HAVE to have one. In fact, if anyone has one for a tuber and want to get rid of it, let me know, I trade up/down with my pro series muffler. |
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Mikef5000
| Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 06:11 pm: |
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To the Original Poster: stay away from D&D, way louder than it sounds like you want. To Crashbuell: I love my D&D! It sounds excellent! Although, obnoxiously loud. |
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Cyclonemduece
| Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 09:19 pm: |
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i think that a V&H would be what you are after as far as sound is concerned. |
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Warlizard
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 01:25 am: |
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I have the Supertrapp and love it. It is a very sturdy unit and is stainless rather than aluminum. You can set up any way you like. I currently run 18 discs for a nice deep sound. Very Harley like. Add more discs for more sound/hp. The D&D and Force are extremely loud, too loud for my liking, though w/ enough discs the Trapp could be just about as loud. I avoided the V&H as I don't like the idea of repacking it and have heard of many breaking. If you are looking for cheap, Wiley makes a decent can for under 200$. |
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Brinnutz
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 01:32 am: |
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I've got the Buell Race Header with the D&D Race Muffler and ZOMG...It's loud. It'll blow the doors off cars as I hammer it past them. I love it though. I love how when I haul ass it's loud, and then I let off the throttle and come down in RPMs the cackling I get is awesome...=) |
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Warlizard
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 06:42 am: |
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Igner, it appears as though you have upgraded air intake ( K&N )? Doesn't say whether you have changed jets. If you add a new can you will need to increase fuel flow. A nice touch for the headers is a good polishing w/ Mothers mag polish. It takes awhile at first, took me about 2 hours. After that just a wipe down now and then. They end up a nice reflective gold. See my profile. |
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Crashbuell
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 09:42 am: |
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Well, that D&D muffler is built just like a glasspack or a cherry bomb. I think it sounds the way it does because its of a heavy/welded construction. Isn't the body of it steel? You can't get an aluminum unit to sound like that with packing and rivets. |
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Warlizard
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 10:11 am: |
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I was referring to the V & H. I agree, cannot get that deep sound w/ aluminum. |
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Djkaplan
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 11:29 am: |
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You might find the V&H to be a bit too loud. I've had mine for over 6 years and about 35k miles with no problems (only one repack), but it's really loud at speed. I like it because it's about the lightest muffler available for tubers... it weighs less than half of the Pro Series SS race can. |
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Jayvee
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 01:29 pm: |
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If you think the stock muffler is too loud, you are only going to be disappointed in any aftermarket system. Make sure there's no leak somewhere, or a hole in it. The stock is the quietest by far. I took off my Vance & Hines and put on the Stock muffler because I couldn't stand the noise. It is way more quiet, almost TOO quiet by comparison. You might be able to get a Supertrapp to be more quiet by taking out almost all the disks, but performance will reflect that. Cheapest solution is just re-paint the stocker, or maybe have it Jet-Hot coated black? There are also stainless versions of the stock muffler than would give you different options, i.e. you could polish it. |
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Igneroid
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 05:49 pm: |
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Igner, it appears as though you have upgraded air intake ( K&N )? Doesn't say whether you have changed jets. If you add a new can you will need to increase fuel flow. A nice touch for the headers is a good polishing w/ Mothers mag polish. It takes awhile at first, took me about 2 hours. After that just a wipe down now and then. They end up a nice reflective gold. See my profile. Heya Warlizard, Nice bike you got there! I have a tub of Mothers Billet polish. Ill have at the headers you bet. Yours look very happenin. I'm not up on my carb jetting stuff but I do have a shop manual and am fairly mechanical. Can you give me the criteria for selecting the proper jet size?? Is it like plug reading, or just overall feel and response of the motor?? I'm thinkin my bike has the jets it came with. Another thing, my back header is blue near the head but the front isn't. How can I richen one hole?, or does the back cylinder run hotter cause its hiding behind the front one?? Thanks again for the polishing tips... |
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Igneroid
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 06:04 pm: |
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DJ and Jayvee and Crash. Its like Cyclone'sville here. Very nice lookin units. And thanks every one for the info on mufflers. Yeah, Im not lookin for loud. I play guitar in a weekend warrior type band fairly regular(25 weeks a year) and its soooooo loud that some times my ears ring for a couple of days afterward. Then, when I go for I ride, Im lookin for a little solitude. I dont mind if it was a tad louder but not annoying at a highway cruise(3500 rpm). Why did Buell use what looks to be a piece of sewer pipe for a muffler on a otherwise fantastic lookin bike. It kinda like lookin at a babe thats a perfect 10 except for the beard..... |
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Aesquire
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 06:24 pm: |
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I like the Wileyco slip on, it is quieter than the D&D, but louder than stock. I like the mounting setup too. Nothing that does not drag on the ground is quieter than stock. The Buell "corvair" muffler is designed to be quiet AND flow fairly well. You need volume for that. It DOES have a resticted rpm zone right where EPA tests for noise, about 3400 rpm I think. Ugly is not as bad when function is king. While on a shift that get's me home about midnight, I switched back to the stock muffler to avoid the noise when I try & mellow back to the house through a residential 'hood. speed limit 30, means loud in 2nd gear for me. (Message edited by aesquire on September 24, 2007) |
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Warlizard
| Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 10:31 pm: |
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Igner, as far as the carb jets, I imagine you w/ have to pull them and ask a tech about the size? As for what size you need w/ a new can, again I w/ ask tech or someone here. You may want to pick up a jet kit. Once you have made all changes, take bike for dyno run and they will put in appropriate jets. One cylinder running cold sounds like a plug issue. Change them, ( I like the Buell Pro_Series plugs). W/ also change wires, again I like Pro-Series. |
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Djkaplan
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 01:10 pm: |
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Rejetting your carb is good thing to do, even with a stock intake and exhaust system. The elevation in Terrace BC is a few hundred feet above where I live in Georgia. I think you could start with a #45 pilot jet (#42 is stock) and adjust the idle mixture screw 2 1/2 turns out. You have to remove a lead seal to get to the mixture screw, but it's really easy to do. Don't buy a jet kit, just get the #45 pilot for a couple dollars from a dealer or vendor. Run the stock needle. At your elevation, I wouldn't bother to shim it up. The procedure to do all this is outlined quite well in the Archives and on various websites. The blueing on the rear pipe is normal for a stock M2. The front will do it a little too. It polishes out quite easily. You can do it with the pipe still installed. The blueing doesn't come back as bad after you polish it a couple of times (and rejet the carb). |
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Torquemonster
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 01:34 pm: |
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"It kinda like lookin at a babe thats a perfect 10 except for the beard....." ROFL!!! Lizard / Savvy Buellers: Is there enough of a greater value of spark generated/delivered with the Buell pro-series plugs & wires to justify em with only minor mods on a bike? i.e.-2000 M2 / V&H Pipe / Jetted / Stock Airbox Ill be changing out the airbox eventually for either the 400 cfm "Maliaire", K&N (they look the same), or the CF Buell hamcan. |
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Jayvee
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 02:37 pm: |
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If I may interject my opinion despite lack of savvy: the Pro-series spark plugs and wires won't make any perceptible difference over any other good quality stuff. However, I was able to perceive a difference with the Race ignition, despite others' protestations to the contrary, to me it was perceptible. Back to Igneroid's problem, you know after looking at your profile, just painting or coating the stock muffler would help a lot. But then, put an X1 chin fairing on it! Problem solved... |
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Djkaplan
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 03:29 pm: |
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Running a vented catch-can has been shown to be good for two dyno-confirmed horsepower... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/10397.html?1009646047 "The only thing that mattered was removing the blowby from the intake, and anyone can do that for free. That gave a nice 1 to 2hp gain over a wide rpm range." If you wanted to free up a little more power for no or low bucks... I'd say start here. Free horsepower! How could anyone not want that? |
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Warlizard
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 03:44 pm: |
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Whether there is a gain or not from going to Pro-Series plugs and wires is irrelevant. I can't imagine there will be much if any noticeable difference. I suggested the change because whenever you buy anything used w/ a motor it's a good idea to change plugs and wires. I agree that any quality parts will do I just try to stick w/ Buell when possible. |
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Torquemonster
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 04:54 pm: |
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understood and agreed. Thx. |
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Aesquire
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 06:07 pm: |
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http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm For carb tech. Use the 45 idle, as suggested. Ignore any other jetting/needle advice at nightrider, except for how to. Sportster's aren't the same as Cyclones. ( valves & ports are way bigger, pipes & intake less restrictive, stock ) I found the 200 main in my 2001 M2L to be too rich. 700 ft. altitude. I'm running a 195, shimmed up .015 needle, race "carbon ham can" airbox, Wileyco/or stock muffler. I think I'm a tad rich. The best way is to have a good guy dyno tune it, with a dyno with an exhaust sniffer. Plugs & wires shouldn't make much difference. The race ignition box does, see knowledge vault. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/10398.html?1059591514 |
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Warlizard
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 06:32 pm: |
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I am not sold on a race ECM making any difference at all on a carburettor. I w/ go w/ the SE ingition module for 100$. |
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Aesquire
| Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 05:28 pm: |
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I think the race box is only good for a minute amount of power, ( see reference above ) BUT it changes the nature, ( but not the RPM ) of the rev limit. Stocker cuts back on power before redline, race box pulls till abrupt shutoff. I actually put the stocker back on, since in city traffic & spirited riding I can feel the "bog" before shutoff, & shift..... I only ride "spirited" to avoid being rear ended in traffic. Really officer, I was just being safe. The cheapest sure power boost, is 1-2 ponies from re-routing the breather hoses to a catch can. |
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