| Author | Message | ||
     Swordsman |
Okay, so my bike is running kinda' rough. It's been about 5000 miles or better since its last TPS reset, so that might have something to do with it, but I don't have the tools to check it out. Just spluttering a little during both idle and constant throttle, and not as peppy as it once was. While the TPS is one possible cause, I was wondering what the symptoms of a failing oxygen sensor were? Due to the recent hot weather and a plethora of single-pump gas stations, I've had to use octane booster a few times to lessen the pinging, and I'm wondering if I might have fouled mine up a bit. I did a search, but can't find any specific problems listed, other than a vague "runs poorly", which could mean anything. I don't have the equipment to do the torch sensor test. Can someone just describe what the bikes begin to do as the sensor goes bad, so i can maybe begin to narrow down the problem? Thanks! ~SM | ||
| Sub65chris |
have you replaced the plugs or looked at them ? Also have you checked the airfilter lately? I seem to find that if I clean the plugs and make sure they have a correct gap my bike runs better . Just something i look for. | ||
| Xl1200r |
I don't know how it works on our bikes, but in cars the O2 sensor either works or it doesn't. If it works, everything is normal, if it doesn't the engine still runs fine but you get the "Check Engine" light. If you don't have a CEL on, I woudln't assume it's the O2 sensor. I would start where others have said - check your plugs, check your air filter. If it's still running poorly then I would have the TPS done. From there it could be a ton of things if it doesn't get better. | ||
| Swordsman |
I've got 8500 miles on the air filter, but I checked it quite recently, and it looks rather clean. Haven't checked the plugs yet. I plan on doing that tonight, hopefully. I'm running the Splitfires, which come pre-gapped, so I'm not sure what the gap is really supposed to be. Guess I'll have to dig that up somewhere. They've been in there for awhile. ~SM | ||
| Sub65chris |
8500 miles? is it a k&n ? If not it may be time for a new air filter. | ||
| Swordsman |
Nope, same filter it cam with. I keep expecting it to need replacing, but it still looks so white! ~SM | ||
| Wantxbr |
Spark Plug gap is .035 would help further but dont know much about the O2 sensors. There is a test you can perform but my book is at work. I'll try to post back when I get it. | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Be careful with the octane boosters. Some have been blamed for damaging o2 sensors. I have no first hand knowledge but it has been discussed. The easy safe choice is HD branded octane booster. | ||
| Swordsman |
LOL, that's why I was asking in the first place!  ~SM | ||
| Ridrx |
Hey Sword, It was good to see ya in C'ville Sunday. I'm not too far away, so if there is anything I can do to help sort it out just PM me. I've got a garage, stand, Service Manual, DMM and a few tools so basic trouble shooting isn't a problem. X | ||
| Swordsman |
Hey X, likewise! I was totally shocked to finally run into a Badwebber on the street! Thanks for the offer... hopefully it won't be too complicated, though. ~SM | ||
| Rah7777777 |
when 02 sensors gets old, they slow down. basically lets say a brand new 02 sensor will take readings and send to the ECU 30 times a minute (yes minute) & (not exact, just an example) This pattern sends either a high or low milivolts signal to the computer based on the oxygen level the sensor reads. which uses it to add or reduce your fuel injector pulse width. So in the end it will go lean or rich. in a quick manner, to keep the air to fuel ratio as close to 14.7 as possible. the a/f ratio is never dead on 14.7. Its either reading too much oxygen, not enough oxygen. so it fluctuate between say for example 12:1 to 16:1 a/f ratio. and the average is around 14.7 (best a/f ratio for power and environment) And all this fluctuating is done around 30 times a minute, so it all averages out okay. But as time goes on, the 02 sensors get weak and slow down, how fast they take there readings. so it may slow down to say 10 readings a minute. and by doing this your vehicle doesnt realize its too lean or too rich for a while, which can cause it to drive like poop. And yes, many of those boosters are bad for them. And honestly, those boosters only add tenths of octane level. they are a waste of money and never provide any octane enhancement. (okay maybe 00.40 of one octane level) NOTHING to make a difference. | ||
| Swordsman |
Good info Rah. So, here are 2 pics of my plugs. The left is the front cylinder, the right is th rear. As you can see, the rear is running lean. Unfortunately, I have no idea what to do about it, or if it's bad enough to worry about.    Interestingly, neither plug was very tight at all. Each took very little to loosen with a rather small ratchet. I was actually worried about them being stuck, but quite the opposite. Weird, since I know I torqued the crap out of them when I put them in. I know ya gotta check the bolts on these Buells, but I didn't know that included the spark plugs! ~SM (Message edited by Swordsman on September 19, 2007) (Message edited by Swordsman on September 19, 2007) | ||
| Swordsman |
Do these plugs look alright? I'm not running too lean am I? ~SM | ||
| Blake |
Just ride the bike. The plugs are fine. | ||
| Davo |
Swordsman, Looks like a pretty good burn to me. Use a magnifying glass to look at the insulator where it touches the electrode. If there is any blistering then that would indicate a lean condition or early timing. Plugs need to be examined shortly after being removed to get a good read on color. The front plug looks like it was a little cooler. Most of the build up is fuel additives. | ||
| Davo |
After a second look it appears that the front plug might be hotter at cruise and cooler at idle. Notice the tiny balls a metal like substance on the thread side of the plug. This could be caused by pinging. Then after a few seconds of idle then the front cylinder cools off as evident by the rich appearance. If pinging continues I would check the compression on the front cylinder. My guess is that it is higher due to minor carbon build up. | ||
| Swordsman |
Thanks for the feedback guys. Hopefully I can get a TPS reset soon, and check off one more possible cause. ~SM |
