| Author | Message | ||
     Dr_greg |
My '06 Ulysses has developed a "sticky spot" on the front rotor (i.e. brake pulsation) over the last year or so. I started after I switched to Lyndall pads (I know, they're supposed to remove the sticky spot). My warranty is over 9/30, and I've scheduled an appointment w/local dealer 9/20 to look at it. Local dealer has changed ownership since I bought the Uly there, and is less Buell-friendly. The bike has 35K miles. Anyone gotten a new front rotor in a situation like this? Thanks for any info. | ||
| Glitch |
Brake rotors are considered to be a wearable item and aren't covered under the warranty. At 35,000 miles you're due for another rotor anyway. Go ahead, bite the bullet, buy a new rotor, and brake pads. You'll wonder why you waited. | ||
| Punkid8888 |
Well that’s surprising that it is caused by the lyndall pads. I was hoping they would cure my pulsation with my 06 lighting. as for a warranty I doubt they would cover it because you switched to an aftermarket pads which would void the warranty on anything they touch. But who know maybe they wont notice, or care. Have you tried really cleaning them off? I find if I give them a good clean they are better. Also alot of people have been removing the rotor and use sand paper or a hone to really scuff up the surface and remove any deposits. | ||
| Slowride |
Dr_Greg, I have an 06 Uly that had the same pulsating effect. Buell did replace it under warranty and the bike had 13k miles on it. Just take the bike in, tell them the rotor is pulsating and you want it fixed. Also tell them to check to see if all the recalls have been completed on the bike. I had my Timing Cover(loose rivits and scarred up cover), Fan, Rear Rocker Box gasket, Primary gasket, PCV valves on both heads and the Front rotor all replaced under warranty. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Earl Smalls in Marietta, Georgia replaced the warped front rotor on my tuber under warranty after another dealership either wouldn't (or just kept forgetting to do so) after I requested it on numerous occassions. I never went back to find out why it never got replaced, I just went somewhere else. I guess it depends on where you go. | ||
| Hdbobwithabuell |
I got a new rotor under warranty at around 13k, I was about to point out that the front brake was pulsating when the service guy that rode it into the garage told me he thought my front rotor was warped. | ||
| Interex2050 |
This probably also varies dealer to dealer, but... As long as the bike is at the shop by the last day of warranty, any work done that would normally be covered by warranty is covered until they are done with the bike. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
They replaced my rotor and pads under warranty. I was at 1,000 miles. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Have any of you that have had your rotor replaced actually verified that the rotor was in fact warped? I ask because I had a lot of problems with pulsating brakes on a Volvo a few years back. In my internet searches on the subject, I found a website for a racing brakes shop. The proprietor of that shop claims that he has NEVER found a warped brake rotor in ~20 years of working on brakes. He claims that the problem as far as he can tell is ALWAYS caused by uneven deposition of brake pad material which is transferred to the rotor. He also claims this is why bedding in the pads is so critical; improper bedding causes a build-up of material on one or more areas of the rotor, resulting in an uneven braking force as the rotor rotates. This is usually mis-diagnosed as warped rotors. Of course, replacing the rotor would cure the problem whether the problem is a warped rotor or uneven deposition of pad material. The brake problems on my Volvo seemed to back up what he said; I borrowed a dial indicator and all 4 rotors were well within factory tolerances but the brakes pulsed like heck. I finally cured my problem by replacing all 4 rotors and then VERY carefully bedding in the new pads. Evidently the worst thing you can do is to get the brakes hot and then stop with the brakes applied. This will cause a big transfer of material in that spot. I'll see if I can find the link again; it was interesting reading and might be useful to avoiding this problem on our Buells. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Wow, that was an easy find. Here's the link: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_braked isk.shtml | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
My brakes on my 06 Uly started to pulsate at about 6k miles. I now have almost 11000 on it and it does it the same. Havn't thought about getting them replaced though. But I guess it is worth a try. I still have 11 months of warranty left though and figure it can wait till winter. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I have been working on cars for 2 years and have seen my fair share of warped rotors. All verified by one of these:  Take 'em to a lathe, and I promise you it's metal shavings being cut off, and not brake pad deposits. Those were cars though... The rotors mounting method on Buells makes it seem very unlikely that the rotor would warp. | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
check headset (steerer) bearings, if they're loose, they can cause pulsing as if a rotor was warped. also +1 on what hughlysses said, bed in the pads...get up to speed (60MPH+) and slow down quickly a few times. don't baby them, get them nice and hot, then ride as usual. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Well, my rotor is NOT warped (I checked w/dial indicator). I bedded in the Lyndall pads properly (or so I thought); the "sticky spot" didn't appear until some months after I installed them. I did read the "Stoptech" article thoroughly; tried "re-bedding" the pads just to see - it got better but came back. It's to the point now that I really "lurch" coming to a stop at a typical intersection. Perhaps all this occurred because I normally use the brakes on the Uly like "Little Debbie" and don't brake hard enough or often enough to keep the rotor "in shape." I'm somewhat leery of taking the bike to the dealer, however if I get lucky and they replace it thats $$$ saved, and I have four kids and a mortgage... | ||
| Ccryder |
I know on the EBC pads that they recommend you do 10 hard stops in a row (from about 30-40mph). The rotor will be blued but, that wears off next time out. CAUTION!!!! the rotor will be VERY hot and burn you, right now! After you do those 10 quick hard stops you are supposed to let everything cool down to ambient temp. First time I did this I even got nauseous, from all the near stoppies and the smell!! On my "r", I first thought it's rotor was warped. I did some hard stops and cleaned off some of the left over material. Now it doesn't pulsate at all. I was just being too nice, sometimes that can happen in life ;+}. Neil S. | ||
| Dentguy |
Dr_greg...Check the bushings that the rotors float on and the rotors where they float. If they get worn they can cause the rotor to stick in some spots and not float like it should when riding and braking. You may not see this while the rotor is cold and spinning with a dial indicator. Hope this helps. Unfortunately you might not be able to see this very well unless you take it apart. If you do that you need to replace the bolt/bushing kit. (Message edited by dentguy on September 11, 2007) (Message edited by dentguy on September 11, 2007) | ||
| Rsh |
+1 on what Dentguy said. I think I mentioned this back when Dr greg first started having brake problems. The bushings do not necessarily need to be worn for this happen. General debris and brake dust buildup will cause the rotor to stick and not float properly on the bushings, it gives the feel of a warped rotor. 10 minutes with warm soapy water and a nylon brush may do wonders. It has worked for me. | ||
| Dentguy |
Thanks Rsh... I guess I forgot to tell him to try and clean them first. | ||
| Punkid8888 |
Dr_greg, I have wondered too about being very easy on the brakes causing the problem. I tend to be a very light on the brakes throughout my riding and wondered if just doing a good couple stops once a week would help prevent the build up. something else to try. currently 13K on stock bads on the Buell, still got a couple thousand left, but I might replace them early to relieve pulsation Currently 60K on stock pads on my truck, in and out of city traffic, hyw, towing cars. I do notice a little pulsation under a moderate braking at hyw speed. They rotors a bit warn, but the pads still look like they got enough to last 100K | ||
| Jlnance |
Hughlysses, I assume the cause of the pulsing is due to deposits rather than actual warpage. However, my own experience is that the distinction is fairly irrelevant as once the rotor goes bad, it is fairly difficult to fix. In my own case, I developed a pulse, lived with it for awhile, and then switched to the Lyndal gold pads. The Lyndals did help and the pulsing improved over the next week, presumably as the deposits wore off. But the pulsing never went totally away. I eventually had the rotor replaced under warranty and it was like riding a new bike. I couldn't believe I was stupid enough to wait so long to fix the problem when it makes so much difference to the enjoyment of the ride. A few thousand miles later I felt a pulse returning. I immediately ordered a new set of Lyndals and replaced the pads, on the suspicion that I had glazed the original set. That seems to have worked well. The pulsing stopped. |
