| Author | Message | ||
     Scott_in_nh |
So I have it all apart and it looks like the gasket wasn't quite in straight down in the lower rear corner.... While I am in this far I am going to replace the oil pump drive gear. I appears that I have the good rocker cover gaskets. I haven't peeled one out, but can see that they are rubber or rubber coated. I am going to buy: rubber coated metal (RCM) timing cover gasket exhaust gaskets exhaust jam nuts RCM oil pump gasket improved oil pump drive gear Do I need a new drive key for the pump gear? Can I re-use the rocker gaskets or is it better to replace anytime they are off? Do I need to get the tool that locks the primary nut or would an electric impact to remove and holding the brakes in gear to torque work just as well (I don't have the electric impact, but am considered purchasing)? am I missing anything I need? I know I can get everything from Al, but can I get the improved gear and gaskets at Manchester Buell? PN's? Autumn has some of the best New England riding weather (but it is going to rain this week - good time to work on the bike) and I'm about to be very busy at work, so I want it back together ASAP! | ||
| Nocompromise |
Unless you're going to replace the oil pump itself, you don't need the oil pump gasket. Make sure you get the correct exhaust gaskets (SE = flat, stock = tapered). 1. I'm not sure how often these fail or wear out, but I doubt you need a new drive key. On the other hand, it's cheap so you might want to get it anyway. 2. If the rocker box gaskets are metal, then reuse them. If not, then replace them. I've heard the rubber ones expand so you can't reuse them anyway (they won't fit). 3. Not sure about the brake + impact wrench method. I bought the tool and it worked like a charm (although the instructions were wrong, just follow common sense). I just bought from Al - he's extremely helpful if you run into any snags along the way. I'm sure you could call the Buell dealer and have them look up PN's if they sell the different items. One of the most important purchases to make imo is a wooden dowel that fits into the bolt holes for the cam cover. Cut the dowel into bolt-size pieces (I just used a small cutter), then put the pieces in each of the holes. Mount the gasket over the dowels and then mount the cover. Remove each dowel as you go through and install each bolt. I read about this in the KV and it worked like a charm - it will make sure you have the gasket aligned properly and prevent you from making a kink. Make sure your pushrod seals are still good. A torn seal caused a significant leak for me. I don't know if it's an issue with the stock bases (I have NRHS bases), but supergluing the seals in place, then putting the pushrod covers through works great. It keeps the seals in place while you're trying to get the upper part of the pushrod covers seated. One last thing - I don't know if it's possible to change the drive gear without pulling the number 2 cam, but I wasn't able to. It will help a little to line up the cam markings before you pull the cam, but it's no big deal to get them lined up even if you forget this. Good luck! (Message edited by nocompromise on September 09, 2007) | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
thanks for the response and I like the dowel method! The lowest gasket between the rocker box and the head is metal, the two for the cover are rubber and fit into a groove, I don't see how metal ones would work there unless they had a lot of rubber on them? I did not disturb the pushrod tubes and they don't leak so I'm not going to touch them. |
