| Author |
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Toniportray
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 03:58 pm: | 
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Thanks for the birthday note, and perhaps my best gift this day was to find out that it is indeed DAS BOOT! Well, it's at least 1 symptom contributing to the problems. I know the ignition timing is right (at least so far as static timing goes, until I get a timing light from harbor freight $10). I bought some starter fluid from NAPA and sprayed it lightly around the intake rubber boot and the engine lugs down and gets into real slow rpms almost instantly. Hmm. Air leak.. I'll start fishing through the forums to find out how to get a new one and how to install it. Thanks again for all the advice. I intend to get this Blast running at full efficiency once again. |
Slowhand96
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 06:23 pm: |
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Happy birthday Toni!
How to get one? The dealership should have one. They only cost about $11.00 If not Maybe EZ will loan you one.. LOL.. Just kidding.
Mine split along the clamp. I suspect that the clamp was overtightened at some time. I put some duct tape around mine and rode it like that for the week it took to get mine in. I bought three of them. Put one on the bike and I have two spares.
Maybe you should ask Buellistic what the "correct" installation procedure is. Hopefully he won't mention OIL.. |
Jimrich
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 08:40 pm: |
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Toni,
Talk to Andy at Appleton in the sponsors section. He will get you one. Don't forget to ask about a discount. As for how to; If you don't already have one, get a service manual (from Andy), best $60 you will spend. Follow the instructions for removing the fuel tank, and the removing the carburetor. That will get you where you need to be. As for specifics once you get the carb off, loosen the manifold side of the boot, and remove. The manual calls it a manifold-carburetor coupler!
When you are reassembling be sure you have the boot seated in the grooves correctly, and that the clamps are in the correct grooves, then tighten.
Hope that helps,
--Jim
Please don't feed the Troll
(Message edited by jimrich on September 07, 2007) |
Toniportray
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 10:02 pm: |
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While I wait for a replacement boot to become available, would it have any positive affect to apply gasket sealant on the inside of the boot to seal in the air gap that is coming through? The air is leaking through the end of the boot since there are no cracks or damage anywhere on the middle or inside of the rubber. I figure I could put some of this gasoline resistant gasket sealant on the inner side and install it until I get another boot. Anyone think this would or wouldn't work? |
Swampy
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 10:23 pm: |
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The sealer will not work.
Probably the best temporary fix would be to go to the auto parts store and pick up so of the filler neck hose, or maybe scrounge a junk yard for one that is the correct size and cut a piece that is the right length.
(Or maybe way longer???) |
Jimrich
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 10:33 pm: |
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I concur with Swampy.
Please don't feed the Troll |
Slowhand96
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 10:38 pm: |
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Toni
Have you tried to tighten the clamps? Loosen the clamps, roll the boot around to get any dirt or crud out of it then re tighten?
I don't know about gasket sealant... think about cleaning up after you get the new manifold-carburetor coupler (AKA, das boot)it could be messy. If you scratch or gouge the carb or the manifold surface while trying to scrape the sealant off it could be a bad deal.
I regretted putting the duct tape over my clamp when it came time to make the permanent repair. After all that heat the tape was pretty gooey! I'd probably do it again though, it got me home and got me around for a couple of days. |
Toniportray
| | Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2007 - 10:06 pm: |
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I thought it might be good to post some information for anyone else who might want to adjust their ignition timing module, or to anyone who may have problems with this someday. I also would like to verify it for myself, but when you turn the ignition module clockwise, that delays the spark right? Turning it counter-clockwise makes the ignition spark fire sooner? I'd just like to set that straight. |
Joey
| | Posted on Friday, October 05, 2007 - 11:58 pm: |
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You're exactly backwards. |
Ryblast52
| | Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 01:22 am: |
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i have a 2000 blast, runs fine for awhile then after 15 minutes or so it dies. Try to start it again and nothing. there is also no spark when i try and start it again. wait awhile and starts right up. Sound like an ignition module? I've replaced the spark plug, air filter, auto choke(which fixed a different problem), carb jets, intake boot, coil. I just don't know what else it could be |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 01:31 am: |
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Loose ground or ignition - this assumes battery and battery wiring good and safety switches not fubaring you.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 01:51 am: |
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Yes it sounds like a coil or ignition module, however havent heard of a Blast coil going bad yet. Could also be a bad safety switch- kickstand, clutch or neutral. Reverse the diode.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html |
Reuel
| | Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 12:53 pm: |
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When it stops running, pull the ignition module cover off and crank it over. The LED should blink. If it doesn't, your hall-effect switch probably had a wire break on it. It's a sealed unit, so repair is not feasible. |
Ryblast52
| | Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 10:15 pm: |
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Thanks for the advice, but Reuel im not real sure on some of the terms you used, could you explain a little more on what you meant? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, September 12, 2008 - 01:54 am: |
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Welcome Ryan!
Do you have a repair manual?
Under the timing cover (or points cover or ignition module cover)on the right side of the engine is the ignition module. There is a small led light that blinks on and of with every spark as you crank the engine. No light, no spark. It will light up erratically if there is a problem too.
The repair manual has a specific procedure to remove the plastic cover by drilling a hole in it in a specific place.
It can also be pried off with a small screwdriver, carefully (you dont want to stab the module underneath the cover). |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, September 12, 2008 - 01:59 am: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/Blast_static_timing-300020.doc
That link will give you a picture and instructions for removing the cover. |
Reuel
| | Posted on Friday, September 12, 2008 - 09:25 am: |
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Yeah, what Erik said.  |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, September 12, 2008 - 11:00 am: |
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This should help for our own reference.
EZ |
Ryblast52
| | Posted on Friday, September 12, 2008 - 11:33 am: |
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alright thanks guys that helps, yes i do have a manual, but im sure i will be coming back for some more advice on othere things |
Ryblast52
| | Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 08:56 pm: |
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well i did finally get the blast to die again, and when i tried to turn it over the light on the module never lit up. so im probably going to order a new one tomorrow. what does it take to install a new one? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 09:16 pm: |
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A screwdriver for the two bolts holding the module down and a very small (eyeglass) screwdriver for pulling the deutsch connector apart.
Follow the manual for the static timing and it'll be much easier if you put the new module in in the same relative position the old one came out (the bolts will usually make marks on the old module).
The deutsch connector can be very tricky. Make sure the wires go in the same places they came out (the manual will list the places and numbered slots).
Timing should be checked with a timing light if you have one, but since you didnt have any problems before, you'll probably be okay with just static timing (if you do it right).
(Message edited by GearheadErikO on September 14, 2008) |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 09:24 pm: |
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from an earlier post I wrote (I saved you the search):
"The ignition module takes about an hour to change if you know what your doing and not rushing.
The hardest part is pulling apart the Deutsch connector (see manual). From the wire side of the plug push the green plug out with a small screwdriver (the kind used to fix eyeglasses) or other small suitable probe (slide back the rubber seal first).Then, on the pin side of the plug, in the center of the plug, are 6 small tabs which when pushed (inward-towards center of plug) will release the wire/pins. It takes about 5 easy minutes to pull the plug apart, but will take an hour or more if you dont know this!!!
Note the position of the ignition module before you take it out, it'll make timing it a little easier. Static timing by the book is usually as accurate as dynamic timing with a light, but do check it with a light. If you dont use the clear plastic timing hole plug, oil will spray everywhere! (but it can be done)" |
Ryblast52
| | Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 12:02 pm: |
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just got the new module in and it runs like a champ. Thanks for the help |
Truthnexile
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 05:47 am: |
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Okay, here's the info I'd posted about in another thread earlier. So if I understand the only difference between OE part #32687-OOY and -00YA is the connector. Thanks to Eric for the details, I will be tackling that one if it saves a few bucks. Seein that there are very few of these parts used or affordable, it's gonna run in excess of $100 I presume. From the sound of it, I'd likely get much more performance out of a new module. I discovered the damaged unit when attempting the static timing and just pulled the unit without making marks. Why would you replace the plastic cover after drilling a hole in it? It's quite easy to open it undamaged with some picks and replace intact. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 10:05 am: |
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Unfortunately used ignition modules are very risky. They are often bad to some degree, thats why they are for sale!
It is easy to pry off the cover, but if done wrong (and after 8 years on Badweb I know this is true), you'll damage the module. The covers tend to come off on their own after they've been pried on & off a few times and the hole would let in dirt and rain (actually early covers fit very tight, later year covers fit very loose).
None of this helps you though and I only have a spare bad ignition module The Blast module is the only one that works without other modifications that would drive the price back up. |
Truthnexile
| | Posted on Thursday, March 11, 2010 - 09:04 pm: |
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I had to pry the green part of the plug from the pin side, no way to get it from the back. From there it was easy. Did the clutch switch bypass and I got spark. Tomorrow will try to set the timing again. |
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