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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Clutch: Cable, Adjustment, Basket, Hub, Spring, Plates... » Archive through June 07, 2008 » New Clutch Cable Care « Previous Next »

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Jw33180
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2007 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just replaced clutch cable second time in 16k mile on XB12R. Both times broke at ball at handle end.
New cables are more $ and have a coating of some type to within inch of ends.
Whats the best way to care for new type cable? Sorry posted wrong place 1st time.
Thanks to All
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Sparky
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 01:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey, we've been there a few times. The reason it breaks at the lever end is because the ball fitting is not swivelling (turning or pivoting) inside the hole at the clutch lever. It is designed to swivel. After many clutch lever squeezings with the ball fitting not swivelling, the metal strands of the clutch cable bend and break due to metal fatigue.

Several things can contribute to this metal fatigue, the major factor being friction. If there is too much friction at the ball fitting and the clutch lever, the ball fitting does not swivel and ... well, you can guess what happens.

The things that can cause this friction are dirt, too little or no lubrication, or neglected maintenance. So, the best ways to reduce this friction to a minimum is to keep the ball fitting clean and lubricated with either a grease, like white grease, or cable lube or dry powder graphite lube.

But be advised if you use a grease or an oil on it, dirt will stick to the oil and accumulate on the outside of the oil/grease film and may eventually make its way to the ball fitting which increases friction and it eventually breaks. So, if using white grease, one tip is to use a slightly heavy application so that any dirt that sticks stays on the outside and doesn't get to the ball fitting.

Or, use the normal amount of lube on the ball fitting and then put some black electrical tape over the slot of the clutch lever housing. The theory is that this will directly shield the ball fitting and cable strands from airborne dirt sticking to them. There's nothing magic about using electrical tape, but it's black and blends in with the lever housing. : )

Oh yeah, don't forget to lube the cable from time to time (yearly) with the proper type of cable lube. This will ensure that the lever actuation stays at its lightest, like new.
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Jw33180
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Sparky that sounds like you covered it. Still wonder if new type cable needs any certain kind of lube?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use dri slide (liquid suspension of graphite powder).

I've never been happy with how often I seem to have to re-apply it in order to keep cable pull light, but I have more then 20k on clutch cables with them still very much intact and functional, so maybe it's not as bad as I thought.

My local Buell dealer carries it, as do most import shops.
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Henrik
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mountain bike cable lube works well for me (as long as you don't apply so much that it shorts out your turn signal switch ... ; ) )

Henrik
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 02:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your mountain bike has turn signals???
I thought I was doing good with a blinkin' tail light! : )
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Henrik
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Funny : D

I use the same lube for my throttle cables on the S2 with the old style switches and controls. So in my over-exuberance I'd apparently slathered everything, including the right-side turn signal switch in enough lube for the turn signal to start activating arbitrarily. Happened during BRATPAC II and caused quite a bit of trouble shooting advice and amusement among the participants ...

At the same time the front brake light switch decided to crap out. So much for getting all work and installation done well ahead of long trips ...

Henrik
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Irideabuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2007 - 06:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just replaced my clutch cable with the new "coated" cable design. I have to say it pulls with about 1/3 of the effort of the old cable.

I agree with "jw" and need to know if this new cable should be lubricated like the old design. With the coated cable I'm not sure it's necessary to lubricate the cable itself - I don't want it to fail thanks to my ignorance.

Another question on the clutch cable replacement.....the manual stated that the battery should be disconnected when doing this swap out. Why? It said this would prevent unexpected engine start. How could that happen without the key in the bike?
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Alchemy
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2007 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can you point to or provide more info on the Coated cable? Is the part number different? What models does this coated cable apply to?
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Irideabuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2007 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think all of the cables are manufactured this way now. Mine was for a 2004 xB12s.

I'll find the receipt and let you know the part number when I get home later. I ordered it from my local BWB sponsor Seminole Buell Shop.
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Alchemy
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2007 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If they are all that way now then the new cable I recently ordered for my Uly should be coated as well. Thanks!
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