| Author | Message | ||
     Sanchez |
I finally got around to installing the MRC clutch I bought months ago. It took about 30 minutes, including taking pictures and wandering around my garage looking for tools. Installation: 1) Remove the derby cover (3 T27 torx screws). Note: don't do this on the kick stand. The bike needs to be level, or fluid will pour out.  2) Pull the spring and lock nut out of the center and screw out the clutch retaining nut with a thin bladed screwdriver. You're rotating the bolt rather than the nut, so it turn it clockwise to loosen.  3) Pull the clutch assembly out, and rotate it to detach the clutch cable. Be careful not to drop the cable retainer into the primary, or this becomes a much bigger job.  The instructions say to loosen the clutch cable, but I didn't find that necessary. 4) Assemble the MRC clutch using the retaining ring from the factory clutch. Do yourself a favor here, and go buy some snap ring pliers if you don't have them. Be sure to use the supplied bearings, as they're larger, and make sure you align the key tab correctly.  5) Reattach the clutch cable, slide the new clutch into place, and tighten the retaining nut down. Bottom it out, and then loosen the screw 1/4 turn. Replace the spring/nut.  6) Adjust the clutch cable to less than 1/8" free play by sliding the rubber boot up and turning the adjustment nuts. You'll need two 13 mm wrenches for the adjustment nuts and a 15 mm for the lock nut. Mine required quite a bit of tightening. Impressions: I like it. The new clutch noticeably reduces lever effort, which says quite a bit considering how easily the Uly's factory clutch pulls. The difference would be staggering on a tuber. Also, it begins to engage closer to the grip than the stock clutch, and it progresses more linearly, both of which make low speed maneuvering much easier. I already feel much better in full lock turns with the MRC. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Just a side note that if fluid is pouring out while on the kickstand, it is overfilled. It doesn't quite take a quart to fill the primary and that is done while on the kickstand. "Also, it begins to engage closer to the grip than the stock clutch, and it progresses more linearly," That right there is what I would like to have. No matter how I adjust mine according to the manual the friction zone is very small and very close to the end of lever travel. Where did you get the kit at? Very nice mod, good job. (Message edited by jmhinkle on August 25, 2007) | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
I would love to hear something official from HD and Buell about the current engineering reasons and specs behind why the stock clutch is the way it is now in the year 2007. | ||
| Pso |
Pay special attention to step #3 above. Believe me I know what happens when you are a slight bit sloppy! | ||
| Bertotti |
What is the difference between them, they kind of look the same in the pics. | ||
| Sanchez |
The difference is on the inside. Here's what the two halves look like separated:  I didn't think to shoot the inside of the MRC before I put it in, so I can't say exactly what's different except that the bearings are larger. The channels are probably cut differently as well. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Mmmi_grad, What's wrong with the clutch? Works fine to me. | ||
| Sleez |
cost? | ||
| Sanchez |
It was $110 at a local H-D dealership | ||
| Pso |
Electrogide-I have arthuritis in my left thumb joint and it is very painful when using the clutch. I put the lighter clutch pull thing in and it reduses the force needed by between 25 and 30%. thus I am able to ride all day with much less pain. That is why I got the device, so I could go on 10 day rides with friends. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Pso, Sorry to hear that. Arthritis sucks. Glad you have found something to help keep you riding. As we both know, we ain't 20 anymore. | ||
| Pso |
I was afraid that I would need to go to the new Yamaha that is clutchless, but not yet, I have a good work around. |
