| Author | Message | ||
     Whosbeenfartin |
I need some guidance on adjusting the belt tension, I adjusted it per the manual, but when I search here there are several recommendations to adjust it "scary loose" what does that mean? I have diagnosed an intake leak by spraying carb cleaner, not sure exactly where it is, I am going to pull the intake manifold to replace the intake seals: Any advice on specific tools for this job? Are there better updated of after market seals to use? There are several references on this forum regarding leaking throttle bodies in early X1's (this is a 1999) How do you test for this? Can this be fixed? Is there a larger performance throttle bodies available? Thanks... | ||
| Oldog |
WBF: start with 2 1/16" slack in the lower run of the belt at 10#, with the suspension unloaded It has been determined that the 1 1/2" at 10# is to tight. intake seals stock are good change every couple of years. A special tool is available from American Sport Bike it is a shortened and angled allen wrench it saves lotsa grief. the intake body section seals may (MAY) need replacing I know of no leaking issues on 99 TB the older styles have been known to snap the shaft into 2 a larger throttle body with out other work or as part of a comprenhensive build will be money wasted, afaik there are shops that will bore them over size my $0.02 waste of time for a street engine | ||
| Mbsween |
Oldog/WBF, I'm also replacing intake seals. The wrench from Al helps tons on the upper bolts, I found that a short 1/4" bit or cut down allen wrench (any bit for a multi-bit screwdriver will do, just use the end that normally goes into the socket) with a wrench worked better on the lower pair. Once you're done swearing and sweating its a piece of cake. I decided to replace all the seals since I have it out, just wondering if there is an easy way to dissasemble/reassemble the manifold/throttle body sections. man they are a bear to get apart! And back together. Is it okay to use a bit of oil on the new seal to get things back together and lined up? There is a great description here Matt | ||
| Chasespeed |
Scary loose... Well, how far does the rear compress when you are on it? As the suspension moves up, the belt gets tighter. Mine is running so loose, its polishing the front part of my swing arm... It wont jump, or anything else when run good and properly loose... Like Dan said, I think 2+ is a good start... then, lean over the bike, with your wieght on it, and play with the bottom side, and see how tight it is... Chase | ||
| Whosbeenfartin |
So basicly, I should be able to sit on the bike and pull or push the belt into the swingarm, does that sound correct? | ||
| Chasespeed |
Uh, doesnt need to be that loose, BUT, you are getting the idea... Lean over the bike to put your wieght on it, and have about 1.5 to 2 inches there... It will have more slack when unladen... Chase | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Mine will touch the swingarm with no force at all. Tight belt = dead bearings | ||
| Chasespeed |
so does mine... Tight belt, = snapped belt Nate, I am hoping to move home next year sometime... you ready to tear it up???? Chase | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Hell yeah. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Who... thats how I always adjusted it... after I tried following the manual and trashed my 5th gear drive assembly bearings on my M2. The belt was still original at close to 30k miles and no problems... | ||
| Chasespeed |
The belt was still original at close to 30k miles and no problems... 55k+ and still no issues... Chase} | ||
| Xldevil |
My method of adjusting my Cyclone's belt is simple;referring to: http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/beltad just.php Citation: "Some years ago, Jay Hawley(former DIRECTOR of AMERICAN THUNDERBIKE CLUB) at E. Troy riding with some BMC test riders. They were showing him some nice local roads. They were also testing the effects of too much slack in the rear dive belts. They had moved the rear wheel all the way forward for maximum slack. Then they rode the hell out of the bikes... wheelies, hard riding and riding double. No matter what they did, they couldn't make the belt jump. So belt skipping is not a problem." I simply tighten the drive belt as loose as it is possible without scratching along the underside of the swingarm or the swingarm mounting block, or the rear wheel cover as well while driving. I began very loose and then adjusted it by try and error,always staying on the loose side.After no more than 3 test rides I found the best adjustment for my belt For me,this method works perfect. Ralph | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
2 inchs like oldog said WORKS on the x1. Manifold tools? You can use a propane torch to heat up the manifold to help pull the buterfly section off. DONT HEAT TOO MUCH and kill your TPS.... throttle position sensor that is. the rest is obvious with the right wrench. It wont hurt to put a tiny bit of anti sieze on the manifold to head bolts either. |
