| Author | Message | ||
     Ryker77 |
Today I was starting my bike up in gear with the clutch pulled. The bike was pulling forward. Turn off. Bust out manual and follow instructions. Turn screw CW then back in 1/4 turn. adjust cable. add fluid to correct level. Still engages in 1st gear with clutch fully pulled. - New cable, new clutch? Is this a DIY or are the tools to expensive? | ||
| Ryker77 |
I'll leave this in the correct location before I cross post it to the general section. Don't think many people visit this section. | ||
| Ccryder |
Did this just happen, how many miles, has the bike sat for awhile, were you doing burnouts the last time you rode the bike???? Original cable? Give a little background and we can help. The cable is a DIY. Clutch is probably a dealer/ mechanic job. Neil S. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I think it's been getting worse over time. Today I really noticed it. I've never done a burn out--- to chicken! Assume its the orginal cable bike is x1 with 9xxx miles on it. Though the previous owner set the bike up for drag racing and I can assume it was driven hard before me. I;ve put about 1,000 miles on the bike -- After a 40 mile ride the clutch is acting normal. I guess the topping off of new fluid and lubing the cable is all it needed. I think I'll drain and refil the primary to ensure it's all clean. | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Ryker, I can tell you that my tuber does the same thing when it's cold, and always has, once it's warmed up no problems. A bunch of hard miles w/original clutch and presently on the 3rd cable. I'm not trying to convince you to 'overlook' a potential issue, but I wouldn't worry about it. G2 | ||
| Sloppy |
Ditto BigDaddy. It should only be a light pull, in other words, you should be able to hold the bike back easily while seated with a foot down. Are you using something other than motor or factory oil in your tranny? | ||
| Jackbequick |
Did you back the clutch cable length aduster off to make the clutch lever floppy at the bar before you did the adjustment? If not, you are not getting full travel on the actuating lever or arm when the clutch lever is pulled in. Make the lever floppy, push the arm to right all the way, turn the screw CCW til it just touches, back it off 1/4 turn CW and that will get it right. Then do the lever freeplay. Take all the slack out, pull and release the lever several times to seat all the clutch parts, then go for a 1/16" gap where the ferrule on the end of the cable enters the clutch perch. Grip that with thumb and finger and and pull out on it hard. After it is all warmed up you can take a little of the freeplay out, like 1/4 turn at a time at the cable length adjuster, if you're still getting too much drag or gear clash. But its always going to be worse on a cold bike. Jack | ||
| S2pengy |
Being an X1 I believe you find that the spring plate has come apart... It is sandwiched between the clutch plates... I hope your clutch basket isn't shot if this turns out to be the cause... | ||
| Ryker77 |
It should only be a light pull, in other words, you should be able to hold the bike back easily while seated with a foot down. that was the way it used to be. Then yesterday it was too much. I still could hold it back. Are you using something other than motor or factory oil in your tranny? Don't recall what I put in last time. It's been some time back. I think I went to the dealership and bought the "correct" fluid. I topped it off with Amsoil 20w50 yesterday. Did you back the clutch cable length aduster off to make the clutch lever floppy at the bar before you did the adjustment? yes and lubed up the cable push the arm to right all the way, turn the screw CCW til it just touches, back it off 1/4 turn CW and that will get it right. push the arm to the right? I don't recall that being in the manual. What arm? ---- I did the screw CCW and backed it off 1/4 turn. Just not sure about the "push arm to the right" | ||
| Al_lighton |
What Todd (S2pengy) said. The spring plate loses it's rivets, they get all jammed in there and eat the adjacent friction plate and then rattle around until they wedge something together. And in the process, the spring plate digs grooves in the middle of your basket. If that happens, replace it with an extra plate clutch kit. IF the grooves aren't too bad, dress them so that there are no raised burrs and you may be OK. But if they're deep, they clutch will never work right again, you'll need to replace the basket. Al | ||
| Ccryder |
I had the spring plate fall apart on my S2T. Really took me awhile to figure out. I could get everything adjusted fine at home, ride around for 10-50 miles and everything was fine. Next ride starting out it would be fine until I came to a stop sign or tried down shifting. The clutch lever felt real funky and the clutch would drag. The on again, off again problem was a result of the rivets falling apart and getting caught between the plates. I replaced it with a Barnett clutch pack and was a happy camper after that! I had 20k+ miles on that S2. With 100+ RHP I wanted to make sure I had a GREAT clutch, not just an ok one. Time2Work Neil S. | ||
| Ryker77 |
rode the bike again today. all is good. still mis shift second if I am running hard. | ||
| Jackbequick |
"..push the arm to right all the way..." That is not in the manual, it is my "embellishment". It just seats that arm the clutch cable attaches to back against the stop and lets you make sure you are taking up all the freeplay in the adjuster screw when you take in down to the light contact point. I didn't think about the spring plates issue, that is worth keeping an eye on for sure. I would have replaced my spring plates with extra plates if I had ever had to disassemble the clutch. That is almost guaranteed to save you trouble in the long run. Jack |
