| Author | Message | ||
     Wolfridgerider |
I have drilled a total of 3 allen heads and 1 bolt to be safety wired and toasted 7 bits!! Can anybody name a good drill bit that will hold up for a few uses? | ||
| Dick |
You need a cobalt bit use cutting/tap oil and SLOW drill 400/600 RPM max | ||
| Slaughter |
Drill press if it's at all possible. Safety wire drill guides too but if not, aggressive center-punch and drill with coolant and Peck-drill... drill just enough to pull a chip, lift a half second and continue. ...and buy at least a half dozen more 1/16 drills! | ||
| Fireflyer |
I use regular cheapo drill bits, but I have good results dipping the bit into cutting oil, the brand name I use is 'rapid-tap'. I pour a little into a container and just dip the bit into it a couple of times during each hole I drill. Even if you get better grade bits, give it a try. They'll last even longer... + what Dick and Slaughter said  (Message edited by fireflyer on July 16, 2007) | ||
| Tdiddy |
I just drilled the kick stand bolt and wired it. I bought 2 carbide drill bits from the Homey Depot. They were less than 3 dollars each. Just do what was stated above and go slow. Were your saftey glasses. When the bit breaks its like a bullet and WILL always hit your eye. | ||
| Eboos |
I just did 10 bolts with a HSS drill bit and didn't break a single one. I used a drill press running 1600 rpm, firm pressure, but pecking and tap oil. I cheated a bit and used a 5/64" drill bit that I got for 46 cents for a pack of 2. | ||
| Diablobrian |
I buy packs of double ended jobber bits. I use the methods above too with good results. A guide jig is a good investment if you are going to race much. It will save a lot of bits. | ||
| Slaughter |
I've got these in my toolbox. Got them from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company. You can also get them from Wickes Aircraft Supply. Get some key words from the descriptions in the links below and you can probably find them in a dozen different places - it's just that Aircraft Spruce is close to here.  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nuts aftblok.php  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/aero saftblok.php | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Thanks for all the info. I think a trip to the hardware store is in my future.... | ||
| Sarodude |
The jigs are a good idea. Good bits are a good idea. Lube and careful speed selection are again good ideas. However..... I found letting the drill bit "breathe" prolongs its life the most. I kept going through bits (I bought a bunch) until I started to drill a little at a time, then back out and let the bit cool for a couple of seconds. Gives you time to reapply lube. Then go some more. This one bit outlasted like 7 or 8 bits before it combined once I took on this technique. That was the last time I had to wire a large number of fasteners - and that was many years ago. -Saro | ||
| Blake |
This thread is a keeper for sure. Thanks for the great suggestion on the guides Steve. I'd not seen those. I also concur on the take it easy, use lube and let the bit cool technique.  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I did some calling around to some of the vendors I buy from and came up with a pre-lubed drill bit called Brute Platinum. I will let you know how they work. | ||
| Spiderman |
pre-lubed? If this guy tries to sell you a bridge in NY don't buy it! LOL I tried a google search and came up with nothing and in my years of working in a machine shop I have never seen nor heard of a drill that is pre-lubed. So if there is a website with pre-lubed info please post BTW Brute sells Lube for there drills and cutters, whats that about  (Message edited by spiderman on July 17, 2007) | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I have no clue as of yet what the guy was talking about. But at this point in time I am willing to try anything. I am going to pick up a pack of bits on my way home so I can hopefully poke some holes tonight. Pre lubed may just be the packing grease or they could be coated with something. Whatever it is I'm sure it will burn off with the first time I use them. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
135 DEG. 7/64" X1-1/2" SPLIT PT. HI-SPEES BLK OXIDE part # 3205-0040 135 degree split point jobber high speed black oxide surface treated drill bits 7/64" x 2-5/8" 1-$.99 12-$.85 diameter: 7/64" flute length: 1-1/2" overall length: 2-5/8" decimal equivalent: .1094 the brute platinum XL5 drill's unique web geometry makes this drill especially useful in the portable drilling of stainless steel, titanium alloys and other hard to drill materials. The exclusive NOMO treatment (nitride on margin only) increases surface hardness. Field tests have proven brute platinum XL5 drills to penetrate faster than cobalt, due to their unique geometry and metallurgy. Brute latinum users state lower fatigue levels, since less force is required to drill. Less breakage is also reported due to its unique "toughness:hardness" ratio, enabling them to flex when cobalt drills chip or snap. Manufactured from a premium grade of molybdenum high speed steel, which is further enhanced by a wear resistant NOMO treatment, Brute Platinum drills hold a sharp cutting edge when others dull. Precision ground 135 degree split point eliminates the need for pilot hole drilling, prevents "walking" and bites right into #300 & #400 series stainless steels. Thats all I could find so far.... | ||
| Tommy_black_shark |
Drill press, jig to hold bolt, and a Drill Dr. is worth its weight in gold. | ||
| New12r |
Drill Dr. is worth its weight in gold. I love my drill doctor, saves me lots of money in drill bits! | ||
| Spiderman |
You mean you guys can't sharpen a drill by hand? rookies ;) | ||
| Tommy_black_shark |
Something else I didn't mention: I have been using Rodman bits for the last couple of years and (knock on wood) they don't seem to break like normal bits. I have track prepped 2 bikes using the same bit. They are pricey, but so far I love 'em! I got them at one of the tents in Daytona, they are always set up drilling holes in hardened files like they were soft pine, etc. I bought the nibbler and they threw in the bits and a saw blade. I think they replace them for free if you break one also. I'm not involved with them in any way other than as a customer, so if they defrauded your grandfather or sold you a set of bits made out of chocolate it's not my fault.  | ||
| Jlnance |
I also concur on the take it easy, use lube and let the bit cool technique. This could go way off topic.  | ||
| Jlnance |
 I got tired of loosing nuts. Sportymark fixed it so I never would have that problem again. | ||
| Slaughter |
You mean you guys can't sharpen a drill by hand? rookies ;) Getting to be a lost art. One of our "finals" in senior high school metal shop was to hand-cut a 3/16 extended length twist drill out of drill rod stock. Kinda miss the basic skills sometimes. (excuse us while we have an old fart moment here) (Message edited by slaughter on July 18, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
the brand name I use is 'rapid-tap'. Ahhhh the good stuff, especialy the old environmentaly UN FRIENDLY version with Tric'1,1,1 } | ||
| Spiderman |
Getting to be a lost art. One of our "finals" in senior high school metal shop was to hand-cut a 3/16 extended length twist drill out of drill rod stock. WOW I can sharpen a drill but not make one, never learned that. But would like to | ||
| Jackbequick |
I can sharpen a drill bit too. And I have a Starrett sharprening gage somewhere in my tool boxes if I want to double check my work. But when it is less than 3/8" or so, I go for the Drill Doctor first. It simply does a better job on the little guys. Jack |
