| Author | Message | ||
     Mikef5000 |
One red line is lined up with the rotor, the other with the caliper. They should be parallel.  The old pads (which have gone back on, because new pads don't even come close to lining up)  I took out all the bolts of the caliper and lubed them up nicely, everything slides nice and smooth and everything is solid. Nothing appears bent. What to do... What to do. | ||
| Phat_j |
go ahead and put the new ones in.. amake sure all slides are lubed up, they will align themselves... it is very common for the top to wear more as they are on the outside of the circle and get tecinaly more use.... pickin up what i'm puttin down? | ||
| Mikef5000 |
But the caliper is noticably off 'square' with the rotor. I should have taken a picture of it with the new pads on. It's bad. I took it around the block with them, and could get no braking out of it. It felt like there was major air in the lines. I put the old pads back on and I have braking again, and no squishy feeling. That's the inside of the pad that's wearing more. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
More lines:  Also, it appears to be dragging a little. The brake lever doesn't quite come all the back up (I can lift it about 1/8" more than where it stops.) Maybe that's causing it to drag? <><>SEE UPDATE AT BOTTOM<><> The caliper piston appears to be working correctly. When I take it off the bike, I can press the brake lever and it'll move out, then lift the brake and it'll go 80% back in. Which is exactly what it's supposed to do. Could something be bad in my Master Cylinder? While I'm at it: This brake has never had any feel to it at all. I've never ridden another tuber, so I don't know if they're all like this or not. Basically I can push the lever about 1/2" freely and then it stops. It feels like it just hit metal and stops dead. At that point I can feel some braking, and I can press harder and make it brake harder, but I feel nothing in the lever. It feels rock solid and not moving at all. This normal? ::EDIT:: Upon further investigation... At the toe peg end of the lever, it actually can be pulled up almost 1/2 and inch. The 1/2" that the lever does not come back up DOES make a noticable difference in the brake. With the lever stopped where it wants to stop, the pads are still pressed against the rotor (albiet with not much force), and with the lever in it's full, and upright position, the pads have the slightest amount of freeplay betweent them and the rotor/caliper. So, what now? (Message edited by mikef5000 on June 21, 2007) (Message edited by mikef5000 on June 21, 2007) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Are those caliper mounting bolts bent? That looks... wrong... | ||
| Mikef5000 |
The bolts are straight, but it's like the caliper sits on them crooked. But it's tight. The caliper doesn't have any play to it like the holes are rounded out or anything. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Your right looks wrong. Spacer in wrong? Let us know what you find. Joe | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
I wonder - is the caliper carrier/mount bent ? If the caliper is snugged up good and flush, and the bolts aren't bent, it would lead you to look at the carrier/mount ... Hard to tell for sure from the picture... but Joe may be on to something - something maybe up with the spacer | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
And in regards to brake feel ... on the tubers the rear brakes are for the most part useless.. You don't get a whole lot of feel with them .. OK - I just went out and looked at my M2(99) ... I see what's wrong ... your carrier/mount is wayyy to close to the rotor ... Mine has a noticeable gap between the mount and the hub .. the fact that yours doesn't is why it's cocked a little ... I can go snap a picture if you want.. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Is there supposed to be a spacer on the brake side of the wheel? I pulled the rear wheel a month ago. There's the large spacer on the other side, but I found no spacers or anything on the brake side. The wheel still fit in very tight, so I hope the spacer I'm missing isn't very large. | ||
| Spiderman |
The front bolt looks straight, re check your rear bolt in the caliper, you may or some one may have cross threaded it in and is causing a straight bolt to go in at a angle... | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Well.. there is this question - are the bearings not in the rear wheel right - as in pushed in too far on that side ? That carrier isn't held that close to the rotor, or hub ... but no, there isn't a spacer .. I don't think the bolts are bent .. or cross threaded ... I really think something else is going on by looking at it and comparing to mine - I think the bearings are pushed in too far (not sure if the bearings are shouldered on that side or not) Sorry for the crappy quality pic -- camera batteries are dead... used my phone ..  You can see the difference in this pic from yours ... the carrier on yours on the axle is pretty much butted up to the hub ... not supposed to be that way. | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Another thing ... the top part of the carrier, where the caliper is bolted towards the rear - that may be where your dragging is coming from - it looks like it is touching your rotor ... | ||
| Djkaplan |
Hope this helps...    | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I don't think I have this part highlighted here. Is it really the bearing race that's supposed to stick out like that?   | ||
| Ragnagwar |
There is indeed a sort of spacer pressed into the back of the mounting bracket where the axle goes through. You can see it in the last picture posted by "DJK". It is about an 1/8" thick. If you measure the casting at the axle you should have a measurement of about 1 1/4" inches between the inside face of the swingarm and the face of the rotor. HTH. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I don't think that's the bearing race. This is all from memory, so it might be something I totally made up and thought was the truth, but I seem to recall that part being steel collar that has an interference fit inside the caliper carrier. Is yours missing? | ||
| Djkaplan |
"There is indeed a sort of spacer pressed into the back of the mounting bracket where the axle goes through." Well... success again for my portable bio-data retrieving system and hair platform. I should get a more expensive helmet! | ||
| Ragnagwar |
These pics might help.    | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I will check mine out tonight and report back! Thanks guys! | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Is it really the bearing race that's supposed to stick out like that? Actually - in the picture I put up that is part of the PM wheel hub ... It has a raised lip there .. the bearing race is recessed behind it - it just doesn't show up .. I was just trying to show how far away from the hub the carrier was .. But it would appear that your carrier might be missing that collar -- If your's is missing that piece -I can send you my carrier -I am putting on a shiny aftermarket PM rear caliper carrier this weekend ... I was going to use the take-off to switch to a Nissin rear brake on my S1 but if you need it, depending on how hard it would be to get yours taken care of - you are welcome to it... | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Arg! I forgot to check it out last night, I was gettin ready for a campin trip. And I won't be able to check it out today (goin campin!) I guess I'll check it out tomorrow night. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Well I do have the 'spacer' part. Here's my messed up one on the left, and a good one on the right:  Notice how the mounting bracket looks fine, it appears to be the caliper sitting on the bolts crooked. It still slides good. | ||
| Dnchevyman |
im calling bent caliper mounting bolts. or worn sliders, they will still slide smooth, but the caliper will sit on them crooked. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
OK! I got to thinking. The caliper mount is correct. So it must the caliper's not on the mount correctly. Well the caliper is not supposed to be fixed to the mount, it has to move on the mount, so it must be something making the caliper want to sit crooked. The horribly worn pads! Now I tried the new pads on here in the first place, and found them very wrong. Which is why I found this problem in the first place. But now since I've super-lubed up every moving part back there, I went to try it again. It's not NEARLY as bad as it was the first time I put the new pads on. In fact, it looks pretty darn close to what it's supposed to! It's still a hair off, but I blame that on it being way off for the past thousands of miles. It should correct itself from here. It actually works now, as opposed to when I first put on the new pads, and it didn't work at all. I now believe something was hanging up originally when I tried this. I blame this whole thread on me not taking my time in the first place by trying, lubing/adjusting, and trying again. Sorry guys!   (That last one was also a shameless plug for my tiny little chicken strips. Least I've ever had in my life! I'm proud of them  . Also notice the (lack of) wear on the tire after 3000 miles!) | ||
| Ragnagwar |
Hey Mike, just glad you got it solved. The suspense was killing me!!!!!!!!!   | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Just got back from breaking it in. While it's still weak as hell, I believe it's working properly. One thing to check off of the "To Worry About" list! | ||
| Bad_karma |
Mike, The rear brake is weak. Just use that abundant front brake. Joe | ||
| Mick |
I had a similiar prob with mine, no matter how hard I pushed the brake lever not a lot happened. So I took it off lubed up the sliders and whacked it back together, brake works fine now. | ||
| Djkaplan |
My rear brake works fine. All other rear brakes are too sensitive... now. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I ordered a caliper rebuild kit from Al. Hopefully that will stop the the slight hanging up that I've got. When I flushed the fluid, the stuff that came out of the caliper was brownish and ugly. I figure rebuilding the caliper for $15 is a lagit first step. | ||
| Oldog |
Mike the rubber booted bushing one the rear of the caliper is subject to corode, I had similar problems I posted an over haul in the KV as part of I.R.A.N.06 may i suggest that this winter you consider an over haul of the MC and the Caliper with new pads if these are worn "funny". I have had issues with the stoppers at both ends from about year 3 on and a complete over haul is the best solution. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=795056#POST795056 (Message edited by oldog on June 30, 2007) http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=539691#POST539691 (Message edited by oldog on June 30, 2007) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Wow!!! I GOT 5 STARS!!! WooHoo! The caliper sliders on mine feel VERY silky smooth (now that I've lubed them up), they don't feel corroded at all. I've never rebuilt a master cylinder. That'll be my next step if the brake is still acting goofy. I want to get this thing in as tip top of shape as I can before heading out west in August. | ||
| Two_buells |
You have a 1996/1997 PM Rear wheel. You need a 1996 Rear brake bracket to go with the wheel. I went through the same problem with my 98 S1 and 99 S3.....my 98 S1 had the rear PM wheel from my traded 96 S1 | ||
| Mikef5000 |
No PM wheels here. Some of the pictures that were posted for reference had PMs, but not me. |
