Author |
Message |
Hooliken
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 - 09:55 am: |
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I have had my XB12X for about 2 months and 2000 miles. The clutch started to engage at the extreme end of the travel. I have read the other posts in the VAULT about this but nothing has really answered my question. I just adjusted it per the service manual twice and this condition still continues. I prefer to have the clutch engage in the first 1/4 to 1/2 of lever travel. The manual makes no provision for changing engagement point. It only states how to do the factory adjustment. Where in the travel should me clutch be engaging? I am experiencing no slipping or sticking at all. Just the fact that it engages with the lever so far from the bar. |
Hooliken
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 - 10:24 am: |
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OK, Just spoke to my local dealer which has further added to my confusion. Tech at dealer told me to go CW until I felt resistance then CCW a 1/4 turn. Which basically goes against the service manual and everything I have read here. A little help...anybody....Bueler...Bueler?? |
Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 - 06:52 pm: |
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Your clutch sounds fine to me. Your dealer is talking about the actual clutch actuator adjustment that is accessible behind the clutch cover on the side of the tranny/primary case. You've likely been adjusting the clutch lever adjuster, which only adjusts for lever free play, not the actual clutch engagement adjustment. But like I said, if the clutch is working okay, it is fine. Not sure why you desire the clutch to stay engaged for 3/4 of the lever travel, but that is not normal nor desirable as it would risk the clutch not disengaging fully and causing severe wear. Suggest you adapt to the clutch as is. Possibly use the lever adjustment to move the lever closer to the handle before the clutch disengages. Remember also to lubricate the cable. When new they wear-in quickly, requiring lubrication to aid in that process. |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 - 07:33 pm: |
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When you adjusted it, did you check the primary chain adjustment and make that right if it was off? And did you slack the clutch freeplay adjuster off until the clutch lever was floppy at the bar before you adjusted the adjusting screw? That is necessary to let the actuating arm return all the way to the right and be unloaded when you adjust the adjusting screw. And did you take the adjusting screw down (CW) just to a light touch and then back it off (CCW) 1/4 turn? This is the adjustment that compensates for the accumulated wear in the clutch. You can't get it right if you do not make the lever floppy at the bar first. Then lengthen the clutch cable until there is no slack at the lever, pull the lever several times to seat all the plates and components, and you're ready to set the clutch lever freeplay. For that, changes the cable housing length adjuster until you can only pull the shoulder on the ferrule on the end of the clutch cable away from the clutch perch 1/16" or so (gripping firmly with your hand and pulling hard). If you've done all that, something should have changed. Check the old posts in the KV for detailed step by step descriptions of all this, it has been covered there many times before. Jack |
Buelleyeddevil
| Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2007 - 01:20 am: |
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I am new to this site and could use some help.I have an 05 xb12s that was recently laid down on its primary side, destroying the cover and clutch cable.After the accident,the tranny stayed in gear.After replacing the cover and cable,it will not go into gear.The shifter barely moves and does not click into gear.Any help would be appreciated as my mechanical ability is more aimed towards cars than bikes. |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2007 - 10:28 am: |
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Read through the old threads in the Knowledge Vault. The appropriate section would be the Drive Train section: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/189716.html?1193477102 And more specifically, the Drivetrain ยป Transmission: Breather, Gears, Dogs, Forks, Bearings section: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3592.html?1193477102 Believe it or not, there is probably nothing that you will ever want to do to a Buell that is not addressed in the KV. And it is often with photos and details that make it easy to sort it out for yourself. It comes down to using the KV or getting people to say everything again that has already been said in the past in a new thread. I'd start trouble shooting that with the cover off, the shifter lever on the shaft, and the rear wheel off the ground. Start rolling the rear wheel over, moving the shifter lever by hand, and watching the pawls, detents, and all the other bits and pieces to see if I can't spot the problem. No criticism is intended for your having asked the question, the KV will have the answers and it is organized to make the info easier to find. Then there is the hard way, the XB Board: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/32777.html?1193494001 Note the words in red at the top about putting XB technical stuff in the KV and not on the XB Board. That plea has been somewhat or maybe even largely ignored by many of the XB Board regulars. The XB Board is full of info that would have been better placed and more useful in the long term if it had been put in the KV. But it was not so you just have to browse or search the XB Board and find the tranny related stuff here and there by topic and/or luck. I'm not trying to start an argument with the XB Board regulars, just trying to help a newbie to the BadWeb deal with the realities here. Don, Good luck with sorting that out and welcome to the BadWeb. There is no better place for find the answers than here. Jack |
Buelleyeddevil
| Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2007 - 08:23 pm: |
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Thanx for the info Jack.Tomorrow when it gets light out I will tear into it again.Donnie |
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