| Author | Message | ||
     Pbuckley |
Guys, I think Tony wants to know what size tools he needs to make the head adjustment. Tony, As measured on my '00 M2 Fork leg pinch screw - 3/8" allen Steering neck pinch screw - 1/4" allen Fork stem bolt - I am not sure but it looks like 15/16" (I couldn't get on it with a socket without taking the bar off to check) I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong. Preston | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
From the parts manual, I was able to use 7/16th and 5/16. I used a crescent wrench on the fork stem bolt...no idea if it was 1" or 15/16" But, with the pinch bolts loosened, crescent worked fine. Appreciate it guys...I think it is time for me to invest in a parts manual. Too hard to figure out if it is metric or english. The bearings were close anyway...but I was told not to abuse my neck bearings more than I already am!! heh heh v/r Tony | ||
| Blake |
Service manual has bolt sizes of interest. | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Glad it worked out for you Tony. Rempss: not sure what book you are referring to but my Parts Manual: P.N. 99571-98y in section labeled Hardware Listing: lists every bolt,nut and screw with part number, description, finish and grade. | ||
| Hoser |
Here's a sneak preview of a C & J Racing dirt track frame to fit a blast engine. It's a work of art , built out of 4130 cromoly . Costly ?? , you bet it is. This is the same frame that HD is using on the blast engined dirt track bikes built to compete in the AMA 500cc ( 600cc in the past ) class.    Jeff | ||
| Jmartz |
Continuation of the discussion of frame geometry on S1/S1W. My S1W owner buddy came over to my house this weekend. We parked both bikes side by side in the garage, removed the tanks and seats and measured away. No differences of any kind were discovered. Conclusion: Frames are identical... | ||
| Blake |
So what was causing the problem with swapping tanks? | ||
| Jmartz |
Problem seems to be related to the twin tail and its seat. I did not have all these parts at the time I did the measurements but one thing is clear now, the problem is not the frame. | ||
| Henrik |
Steering head bearings: The Timken (factory) steering head bearings have #s L44643 L44610 These numbers seem to cross reference between manufacturers. For instance, SKF uses a similar #. Your dealer charges close to doubble the price you find at a bearing house. The trouble with steering head bearings wearing out may be that the bearings are un-sealed, so the grease washes out. Waterproof grease has been suggested. I've got Tat looking for quality replacements for those of us that don't have a bearing house around  The suggestions for bearing removal have been using a punch and "easing" the bearing out by tapping a little and keep moving around the circumference. A slide hammer type bearing puller should do the trick as well. A shop press is obviously the best solution. For installation of steering head bearings a long bolt or threaded rod with appropriate size nuts and washers is a safe approach. Gently tapping the cups in using a hammer and appropriate size socket should work as well. Freeze the cups for a couple of hours before installing. S2pengy has installed a grease fitting in the steering head to be able to lube the bearings in between replacement intervals. He's had good luck with that approach. Where did you locate the fitting? Henrik (being a good poster and summarizing the steering head bearing discussion in the right place ) | ||
| Blake |
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| Chrisx1 |
You can order Timken bearings from anywhere in the US by calling 1-800-44kaman. They'll give you a local store phone number and usually ship bearings in 1-2 days. or www.kamandirect.com | ||
| Henrik |
Sealed steering head bearings: Well, I put our good friend Tat (actually Melanie) to work finding out about sealed bearings, and they do exist: #L44643L. They are unfortunately about twice the "dealer price" for the standard bearings. I'm thinking it might be worth the price in return for not having to replace them every 10,000 miles. What are your thoughts? Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Hell YES!! You found sealed bearings that fit our steering head?!! Henrik, BadWeB's first "Man of the Month"! How about the swingarm bearings?  | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Blake, My metmachex swingarm came with sealed bearings. But the sealing cup added to the total bearing thickness, which made the big silver "nuts" (the things the isolator bolts thread into that set the bearing preload) protrude beyond the swingarm pivot block instead of being flush. I ended up cutting off the seals  To use the sealed bearings, you'd need to either move the seating stop in in the swingarm bore by shortening it (hard) or machine .030-.040 off of the faces on those "nuts" that the isolators bear against (and they're plated, I think). Or, just let them protrude. With them protruding, it is more difficult to install the swingarm block between the isolators (if done the ATC way). Makes me wonder if the extra thickness of the sealed bearings might similarly affect how they install in the steering neck. Al | ||
| V2win |
I had never looked for sealed brgs for these applications. Somehow in the back of my mind I thought that if sealed units were available that Buell would have installed them at the factory. I know, never ass=u+me. So.... today I opened my bearing catalogs to research this subject. Part # L44643L has been superceded. The new part# is L44600LA-902A1. This brg does not come with the race. It will require race # L44610. for our application. Cost. List price on the bearing is $25 each. If your supplier want's more than $13-$15, you need to buy it elsewhere. The race should not cost you over $3. I have my bike completely apart right now. (putting a new pait job on it and doing some engine work. BIGGER is better. Yes?) I plan to install these new units in the steering head as well as the swingarm. Yes, the swing arm and the steering bearings are the same. Cool huh. If your wheel bearings go out, you can just yank out a steering head brg, install in the swing arm and wheelie home. If I have any problems with installation I will advise although I can't see where there would be any problem. Here is a diagram of the L44600LA 902A1  | ||
| Nemo |
Where on the steering stem were the grease fittings installed ? pictures? On my dirtbikes I fill the bottom end of the steering stem with silicone. Thanks | ||
| Henrik |
V2win: thanks for the additional info. I was quoted $31.95 for special order Japanes bearings. Don't know what brand, and it was without the race. About that btw. I'm not quite sure I understand the destinction. On your schematic it looks like the bearing is complete - no more parts needed? and if the bearing is sealed, I didn't think the parts could come apart? Care to educate me? I'll do a bit more research tomorrow - ChrisX1 mentioned Kaman Direct, and they certainly have the bearings you mentioned. I'll call them and find out what they have to say. Is Timken considered a decent brand for bearings? They seem to be the most common brand when I do web searches. TIA Henrik | ||
| V2win |
Henrik.. The diagram above shows the race with the bearing. Sorry for the confusion. The bearing has a built in rubber seal (kind of like an o ring) that mates up against the race when assembeled. I had to order them so I have not seen them yet. They should be here by Wed. Like I said, I will advise when I install them. | ||
| V2win |
If there is a fitment problem with the sealed bearings, there is a new coated bearing that would be better than what is used now. These are available for our application also. Take a look. Timken coated bearings | ||
| Al_Lighton |
I installed my metmachex swingarm 1.5 years ago, so my memory is a little rusty on this... The sealed bearing was "one piece", i.e, the inner and outer race didn't separate from each other, or not obviously so. Maybe they are meant to come apart and mine just didn't the entire time I was handling them, I'm not sure. The swingarm "nuts" were a loose fit into the inner bore of the bearing, just like the top of the steering stem is into the top steering head bearing inner race. The outer bearing races were only very loosely pressed into the swingarm as well, it took no tools to pull them out of the swingarm so that I could cut the seals off. The difference betweenthe steering head bearing install and the Swingarm is that the swingarm bearings are accompanied by an external seal, the head bearings are not. The lower steering head bearing is a press fit for both the inner and outer races. The inner race press fits onto the steering stem against the bottom triple clamp, and the outer race presses into the frame steering neck. It isn't clear to me that you could install that bearing if you couldn't separate it into the inner and outer race parts. And if you could separate them by removing the press on seals, how would you assemble the seals back onto the bearings as you slid the steering stem up into the frame neck with the outer race already pressed in? We don't get much water out here in Socal. My bearings were plenty full of good grease when I disassembled my front end. But the bearings were still shot. Too many front end impacts coined the outer races, making the bearing action "notchy". I think I need to learn to touch down softer My point is that paying extra for sealed bearings wouldn't have made a bit of difference on the bearing life. It's not like these things are spinning particularly fast, or have a lot of local heat like a wheel bearing does due to proximity to the braking systems. Al | ||
| Henrik |
V2win, Al: thanks for the additional information. I did a bit more research today, and went ahead and ordered the sealed Timken bearings: $15.20/bearing, ~$4.-/cup, $6.- shipping. The Timken customer service person was very helpful and didn't think the seal would increase the bearing width by much. This "sealed" bearing does come apart (as V2win described) and cup and bearing be installed separately. I should have tools and bearings by next weekend (I hope) and will try to report both removal, installation and fit. If you want more bearing information this is the place to go. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Al: I get corrosion pitting. Sounds like you could use some stiffer springs wheelie man. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Yea, I did. The stiffer springs went in the same time as the new bearings and other front end mods. Wheelie man, HA! I do one or two a day, and they are all about the same (and usually in the same two spots on my commute). I crank it in first, the front end comes up, I poop in my drawers at about 20-30 degrees, I chop the throttle and crash it back to earth . Wheelie man I ain't! But I'm fixing that. Gonna buy a big thumper dirt bike and learn to do it right. You ride much in the rain, Blake? I don't. We don't get rain in San Diego. Bummer, eh? Rocket suggested some time back to cut a small notch in the lower bearing cup-washer, oriented to the rear,so that at least it doesn't hold water there. I did it to mine, , you know, for when I wash the bike Al | ||
| Blake |
I inevitably get in some significant rain riding on the longer camp and ride treks. Good idea about the notched washer. That and sealed bearings along with some good waterproof grease ought to work wonders. | ||
| Court |
>>>Gonna buy a big thumper dirt bike and learn to do it right. KLR650 - USED I was the same..always reluctant to toss the front end of my, or someone elses, expensive bike toward the sky. KLR. . just roll throttle off....snap on and with a bit of practice you can ride a wheelie from Wall Street to the Bronx. Court | ||
| V2win |
Got the L44600 sealed bearings in yesterday. I see no reason they can not be used in the steering head. I talked to a fellow who has them in his sportster now. I ordered the aquaspexx bearings for the swingarm. No seal on them but the coating should help them last longer. Cost is under $20 for the pair. | ||
| Road_Thing |
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| Johnnybravo |
any one know the part number for the swingarm isolater bushings, the update kit, i cant find it anywhere | ||
| Ccryder |
This what your neck bearings should NOT look like:  This was replaced on Stripe'r yesterday. Do you think I can tell the difference???  Later Neil S. | ||
| V2win |
Neil, The race is only worn in spots. Just take it out, move it left or right a little and reinstall. Be just like new then.  |
