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Nevrenuf
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 11:39 am: |
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bottom screw is stripped for one thing and i need to know what way i should go about getting it fixed. heli coil or what. btw, it's for the 02m2 that i just brought up to chattanooga last weekend (Message edited by nevrenuf on June 03, 2007) |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 12:10 pm: |
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00 M2 had 3 of 4 of those heli coiled before I sold it, and had been for countless installs and removals. No problems at all. |
Ducxl
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 12:31 pm: |
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Not much room there but you should be able to drill out/Helicoil.I've Helicoiled my PM wheels.And on an old evo sportster i Helicoiled the case half. The other route would mean major disassembly to get the case welded to redrill/tap.And then you'd probably want the strength of Helicoils.Be careful and just use Helicoils.Or pay a machinist to do the job. |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 02:02 pm: |
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Neverenuf, I bought a 1/4-20 helicoil kit on eBay a while back to patch up some threads in a windshield bracket. Here is one for sale now, only $11 shipped (they want $28 for that at the Napa store). http://tinyurl.com/389r5e That 5521-4 is for a 1/4-20 thread (the seller was not smart enough to say that) and that is the thread you need. You have to tap the hole out to 5/16-20 with the supplied tap, if the existing thread is pretty well gone, you may be able to get the tap started without even drilling the hole out first with the called for but not supplied 17/64" drill. Get some Loctite Bearing & Seal retainer (the green stuff, fills gaps and has a very strong bond). Degrease the thread and insert with acetone or carb cleaner, let them air dry, then put the insert in with a drop or two of the green stuff on it. Leave it alone and let it set for a few hours and it will stay put and not leak oil. If you don't let the green stuff set up before you put the screw back, the insert will come out with the screw. Reach in with a small needle nosed plier or forceps, gently wiggle the tang, and it will break off easily. Best to do that after it sets up. If you put a small piece of rag in there with a gob of grease on it when you tap the hole, it will catch the chips. If you miss a few they'll be aluminum so it's not too bad. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on June 03, 2007) |
Buell82
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 02:41 pm: |
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Well I think the best route to go would be to take off your primary cover and take it to a machine shop to get that heli coil put in. Most shops in my area don't charge much at all to get them put in professionally. I would imagine it would be the same for you. I have tried to put some in myself on some of my dirt bikes and have failed horribly...lol. Mike |
1313
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 02:48 pm: |
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Hmmm... I've Heli-coiled the lower screw hole on my S2 many, many moons ago and it still works. I don't remember the screw hole being open though, and this pic proves it isn't open on my 1995 S2.
1313 |
Ducxl
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 02:54 pm: |
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Well I think the best route to go would be to take off your primary cover and take it to a machine shop to get that heli coil put in. The threads are cut into the engine case(or inner primary so to speak)that the primary cover secures TO. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 04:29 pm: |
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I think he meant derby cover, not the primary cover, so in fact you could take it off and have it machined. But again, I don't know why you would bother. Tons of tubers have had heli coils in there forever with absolutely *no* problems. |
Ducxl
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 04:46 pm: |
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Doh! When you said "derby cover" i got it.That'd be an easy fix,once the primary cover's removed. My old evo sportster stripped 1 of the 3 holes that secured the old style ramp assembly to the inner side of the primary.I helicoiled all three successfully too. 8-32 i think i remember. Go for it Neil!! |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 05:19 pm: |
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it's the clutch inspection cover bottom hole that is stripped out. which kinda bites to begin with cause after i decided to see if i had any gear oil down there cause i was getting this wirring sound out of the motor i also noticed that my super trapp that i got off of ebay last sept. and which was the older version, had broken it's weld all around the collar and now i have two issues to contend with. no, actually i have three, any how i appreciate the inport. jack, i'm assuming that there is a difference in the loctite though. right now i hope i don't have to take off the primary cover cause i also have a leak underneath and hope it's just the drain plug. not a good day to go riding. |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 08:06 pm: |
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"..jack, i'm assuming that there is a difference in the loctite though..." Yeah, that seal and bearing retainer will fill a small space, like around a bearing that should be a press fit but is too loose, and keep the bearing from rotating. It both fills gaps and sets up with with a higher locking force than the Loctite red. Look for a generic or house brand of that at CarQuest, VIP, etc., it is made by Loctite but will be cheaper. I would tap that hole for the insert with the primary cover in place. Eyeball it straight, pick up the old threads, and cut the first few threads 1/8th or 1/4 turn at a time. If the tap does not start fairly easily, then drill it out with the 17/64 first and try again. The 17/64th drill will remove all of the old threads and leave a smooth hole. When you start a tap, get it cutting and then turn it back a little. That way the back cutting edge cuts the chip off and lightens the load on the forward cut when you go forward again. If you let the cut material wad up on the forward cutting edge, it can overload the tap (break it) and you don't get a clean a thread. I've tapped a few thousand holes in my life, and broke about three of four taps in the process. And I'm probably not the first guy that ever cried or cursed in the process. But I still approach every untapped hole like it is something that is easy to screw up. If you want, I can send you my 1/4-20 kit and you can use that, just send me a mailing address to "jacker at midmaine dot com". Good luck with the repairs! Jack |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 09:41 pm: |
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i'm not to bad at the tapping thing, just never used a helicoil before although i have heard of them. i just want to make sure i get my ducks in a row. last time i tried to do some drilling on a motor i went to far and messed things up a little(twenty years ago) i appreciate the offer of the kit but there only 20 at oreily's or advance. not worried about a couple bucks. already got parts ordered, just don't know when they'll show up. btw ducxl how you been over there. how's the x1 running. thanxs again |
Iamike
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 09:56 pm: |
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Neil. Just take the Trapp to someone who can weld stainless and have them run a bead around the inlet pipe. I did that to mine and it worked fine. To show how good Supertrapp is, I called them up and told them the reason mine came apart was due to the dealer forgetting to tighten (or put in) the front bolt in the hanger after replacing my shock. By the time I got home it had broken the strap and started the losening of the inlet. Supertrapp told me to send it in and they'd replace it with the new style. That's good customer service. |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 12:25 pm: |
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now is that the strap that they would replace or the muffler. i have the older version muffler plus i bought it off of ebay(not knowing any better) plus when i was up at suches with the wife i was hitting the corners hard enough that i litterly scraped and bent up the bottom of the muffler through to the end cap itself. not having the proper hanger on the thing to begin with didn't help like the updated version. i'm just going to bite the bullet on this one and get one that is good. and i should have done this to begin with. i think it is a really good muffler that works great with the way my bike is set up right now. i just knew i was going to have problems with it when i saw the first crack. |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 11:32 pm: |
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Neil Heli coil is the way to go. Easy to do, primary can stay on as long as you don't drill thru. Joe |
Koz5150
| Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2007 - 05:36 pm: |
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If you decide you would like a new primary cover, I have the one off of my 02M2. I replaced mine witha chrome one. One thing I did learn is that you start all 4 screws before tightening any of them down! |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2007 - 08:15 pm: |
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just outa curiosity, what would you want for the primary koz |
Koz5150
| Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2007 - 11:03 pm: |
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$40 and I will cover the shipping. I believe it is in great shape (I will have to check it). It has been wrapped in my garage for the last 3 years |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2007 - 07:50 pm: |
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yea, if you could check it out i would appreciate it. let me know how it looks. thanks |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2007 - 11:56 am: |
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Neverenuf: Out of town and in Savannah,GA.(6th to 11th JUNE) ... Keep me posted on how your "OUT OF TOWN SHADE TREEING" is going ... "i" check my e-mail often and the cell phone works here !!! In BUELLing BUELListic |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2007 - 12:00 pm: |
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will do buellistic and have a safe trip. i'll be back home next weekend and just pick up the new exhaust then along with the other parts to put it back together with just in case. |
Koz5150
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2007 - 12:26 pm: |
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I will take a look tonight when I get home. |
Koz5150
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2007 - 10:36 pm: |
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I checked the shipping and best guess is it will be about $10.00. (UPS ground) IF you are interested I will still sell it to you (shipping included) for $40.00. You know, it is fate that you buy this since we have the same kinda bike (including colors!). Personally I think they are the best looking colors Buell ever put on a bike, but I am biased like taht... I did retire mine from Track days though ever since the "incedent" last summer... Let me know here and then drop me an email (I don't check it often) I have a paypal account to keep things easy. Or if you would feel safer I could set up an auction on Ebay so it would all be Official, but I am pretty trust worthy, and know many people on this board so you can feel safe dealing with me. Let me know, Thanks! |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 07:27 am: |
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if it's alright to you, just let me know your address and i'll get a money order and send it to you. one bad experience on ebay and i'd rather not give them any money any way. as far as the color goes, when erik signed my bike years ago, he said that it was his favorite color scheme at that time anyhow. ken, i appreciate it. next weekend i'll go back home and pick up the new muffler then get that on and hopefully i won't have that big of a problem with anything else, but i won't find that out till i pull the drain plug off and see if there is an 0 ring on there. |
Ducxl
| Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 08:51 am: |
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SCORE!!!! Good deal.I had a little off-road excursion/w the X1.Didn't go down but scrapped the original can.Another fine Bueller here gave me his nearly new original can....This board is a great resource. |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 07:04 am: |
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i'm glad it didn't turn out to bad for you ducxl. that's a sweet bike and it would have been a sad day had anything worse happened to it. as far as the board is concerned, it is a great place with 99.9 percent of the people being the best you'd ever want to meet. unfortunately i did have dealings with that .1% when i was getting rid of parts from the other m2 when it got totalled. the guy who ripped me off of a complete set of locksets for the bike i think is still around on this site under another name. anyhow, it looks like my new job is going good and i just might be around for bueltoberfest. hope to see you again there. |
Koz5150
| Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 10:29 am: |
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Nevrenuf I left you a Private Message |
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