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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2007 - 12:58 am: |
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Spacecapsule1: The 2 1/4" (2" inner diameter) baffles would probably work best if keeping the PS mufflers, but since I no longer have my Pro Series (lent it out) I cant measure to see if they'll fit. My guess is they will and will be a little loose, so shim it up with some exhaust spacers from Pep Boys (auto parts store)if necessary. They'll be held in place (usually) with a screw or bolt, I'd use an extra bolt and lots of red Loctite as baffles tend to get loose and rattle. Its going to be a little pricey at $25 each, but replacing the Pro Series muffler set is $100-$125 (if they're still available, part # 80427-02Y). It may still be a little loud with the baffles but with a 2" inner diameter baffle it shouldnt hurt the power. A home made baffle would be an oblong piece of heavy sheet metal welded inside the 'muffler' at about a 30 degree angle. Basically a restricter plate. Using the 2 1/4 baffles you found would work better. If using smaller baffles, I'd just go with 2 straight pipes (you could even angle them out to the sides). |
Ensnaredlight
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2007 - 03:03 pm: |
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Spacesapsule1, sorry to hear that the mufflers were gutted. It would explain why my experience with them was so loud while everybody else told me it was the quietest made. I used to run straight pipes on my old Harley, but also had drop in baffles that worked really well, so that might be an option short of cutting and welding. On to another topic, Playing with the new Jardine exhaust and gaskets and cones. I'm not sure I got the right gasket from the Harley shop, or perhaps they gave me the wrong one on purpose just to get the damned Buell rider out of the store. I heard they went from a paper gasket to the metallic ones, maybe it was bigger or is the Jardine's header wider? When it was installed, I could only get the nuts about halfway down tight before running out of threads. Maybe I need one of the old ones for this setup. After wrestling with it for a bit, I decided to reinstall the header without the gasket but with the reversion cone. The fit was right like it should be, but now I have some backfiring issues when I come off the throttle. It does seem to have more torque on the low end (I commute non-highway) and strangely a fair bit less vibration. I think I'll mess with it a bit more before I consider RMAing it. While in the process, I did check to see if there was an old gasket stuck in there, but a flashlight and a probe didn't find anything amiss. I'd appreciate anybody's thoughts or musings on this strange situation. |
Xgecko
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2007 - 05:56 pm: |
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did you remove the existing exhaust/header gasket before trying to put the new one in...if you the header in without a gasket at all it would rattle to all hell. the fact that you aren't complaining about rattling leads me to believe that this is so. the paper/metal shift was for the gasket between the head and the jug not the exhaust on a separate note anyone have the part number(s) for the stock exhaust to motor mounts???? mine are just about worn out and I want to replace them when I put the new header on. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2007 - 08:31 pm: |
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Concur! If there's no gasket it will most assuredly leak, badly. S0156.T exhaust grommets (2) C0154.T spacer C0513.T spacer front mount is what you wanted? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2007 - 10:03 pm: |
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Lest we not forget the GASKET,exhaust port ... Be sure to use GASKET,exhaust port PN 17048-98 as it is the "BEST" ... PN 65324-83A is BUELLschitte as in being no good !!! In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on May 11, 2007) (Message edited by buellistic on May 11, 2007) |
Ensnaredlight
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2007 - 01:28 am: |
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Much obliged Buellistic, I did indeed have the -83A one which I can concur is shite. I got it off the old instructions for the PS. I will try to pickup the other tomorrow. Thanx for the part number and the head's up. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2007 - 09:32 am: |
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The -83A will work just fine! There is nothing wrong with it and HD has been using it a long time. The -98 is just a better gasket. |
Ensnaredlight
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2007 - 11:38 am: |
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The -98 gasket was just what the doctor ordered. After comparing the spare with the -83a, I think I see the problem. The -83a is tapered in a bit and seems to fit a smaller head like that on the stock or PS; Thus the Jardine head has to be at least 1\4" larger needing the simple non-tapered ring gasket -98. That or the other option is the the Harley guy did indeed screw with me by giving me the wrong gasket that I "think" is the -83a. Who Knows? Regardless it installed just right even with the cone and now it's time to go test ride and see if that got ride of the rest of the trash noise. Thanx all and Namastae! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2007 - 01:59 pm: |
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Ensnaredlight: You will notice that when the -83A is compressed into the exhaust port it expands and makes the exhaust port smaller ... IMHO this gasket causes the problems with the OEM BLAST mufflers and the problems that occured with the TUBE FRAME BUELLs ... In BLASTing LaFayette |
Joey
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2007 - 10:31 pm: |
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A quick note on those reversion cones--HP tests found a very small decrease in HP sometimes, but usually there was no change at all. I don't remember where I saw the dyno charts. |
Rockbiter1
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2007 - 11:19 pm: |
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I had removed my torque cone last week when rebuilding my Blast...ran it all week that way, top end was great, but it seemed to lack bottom end torque. Went to the local Indy and got a new exhaust gasket (flat type, guy at the shop said it was from a Shovel, but it fit just fine, same diameter as the 65324-83A, but thinner, looked less likely to intrude into the port) and reinstalled the torque cone. Top end HP suffered a bit i think, not much, but it REALLY helped smooth out the torque at the very bottom. Thats MY opinion mind you, your milage may vary. BTW, the 65324-83A gasket I had installed last week did not hold the pipe straight in he bore, it was in there kinda crooked, and did intrude into the port.. for what its worth |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2007 - 05:28 pm: |
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"and reinstalled the torque cone. Top end HP suffered a bit i think, not much, but it REALLY helped smooth out the torque at the very bottom." That is correct. When running a free flowing exhaust (or drag pipes) a torque cone is supposed to give you your bottom end back. Top end suffers, but generally thats not a place you use much on a twin. Many run their Blasts at redline frequently, so the torque cone hurts that. The Pro Series and stock exhaust have a torque cone more or less built into it. Interesting tip about the Shovelhead exhaust gasket. Looks like the right style gasket might just work and eliminate the bad squish of the mesh gaskets. |
Ensnaredlight
| Posted on Monday, May 14, 2007 - 11:22 am: |
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Well after a weekend of Blasting about the Katrina Koast, I can whole heartedly concur with Gear and Rock regarding the torque cone. This is a case of how you ride your bike, if you stay in the low end or highway speeds. I rarely hit the highways, so the increase in the low end torque is utilized all the time. It might rob from the top end, but what's the difference between 96 and 90 really? The guy's site on ebay claims a 1.8HP gain from a dyno, but I haven't seen the raw data yet either. It's a pit pricey for a single cone, pairs usually go for that, but if the glove fits....... And now a mea culpa. Almost have to apologize to the -83a, upon looking at the one I just removed, I realized that I had flipped the tapered end 180' going into the port and thus that might explain the poor fit. Still seems a strange design for a gasket, I'd much prefer the -98 design and fit and since they come in pairs, good to have a spare! |
Johnnylunchbox
| Posted on Monday, May 14, 2007 - 05:30 pm: |
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Posted this in main BadWeb knowledge Vault (Titled: Too much Backpressure?) with no responses. I modified the Kerker exhaust on my Blast. It was way too loud. It would actually scare the hell out of the horses next door when I'd ride by. I narrowed the outlet and drilled holes along the underside to divert some of the exhaust. It quieted the exhaust nicely. I noticed a great improvement in low RPM torque, but it is gutless at the higher end. It's way down on top end power. I fear there is too much backpressure and at higher RPM's it is not moving enough exhaust. This can cause problems right? Not enough scavenging of the hot exhaust gasses or something? What kind of damage can this do? I might open the outlet a little and use steel wool in the area of the holes in the can. The fiberglass packing seems to be blocking the holes anyway. Any thoughts? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, May 14, 2007 - 09:18 pm: |
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Take the main pipe back to 36", patch hole, and attach can - enjoy a hi-po Blast exhaust. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Joey
| Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 01:22 pm: |
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That just made me think about my exhaust. It's roughly the same length as the stock exhaust, but it has a cherry bomb muffler in line. The exhaust pipe is 1.75", but the muffler itself is made for 2" pipe. The manufacturer did an excellent job on the whole thing. I applied absolutely no science to this thing. What should I have done? What can I do? I think I'm fine, but I haven't shimmed my needle yet, which probably accounts for that little flat spot just off idle at low RPMs... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 07:22 pm: |
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36 to 38" is the ideal length, the 13/4 is the ideal diameter, you can get a muffler collar adapter from most any shop. Do the needle shimming and enjoy! GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 07:39 pm: |
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JLB: Yes, in short, Backpressure=low end torque. No Backpressure=high rpm power.That is oversimplified however and not entirely accurate. The more restrictive Blast exhausts give better low end torque while the freeflowing exhausts run better on the high end.That is hardly the whole story though. Unlikely you'll do any damage increasing the backpressure.By the time you got to the damage causing stage, you wouldnt want to ride the bike because of the lack of power. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on May 20, 2007) |
Jugallo94
| Posted on Monday, May 21, 2007 - 10:08 pm: |
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Ok so I tried to paint my v&h header pipe again. this time I ran a medium scotchbrite pad over the pipe then wiped with paint thinner. let dry over night then painted with duplicolor 1200 degree flat black paint. I baked in a oven at 400 for 1.5 hours. let sit overnight then installed. I ran the bike for 5 minutes and the paint started bubling off. Do you guys that paint these pipes prep them any other way or do I just have bad paint. I was told the pipe is stainless and needs to be prepped a special way for the paint to stick. Is this true. I think this winter I will probably pull the pipe back off and get it powdercoated along with my rims and brackets for my exhaust. This is the second time I tried painting the pipe. Same type paint bought from murrays at the same time. I think the paint is bad but not sure. I may just try again when I have more time with another type of high temp paint. |
Mmelvis
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 12:30 am: |
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Jugallo94 have used RUSTOLEUM BBQ BLACK HIGH HEAT SPECIALTY SPRAY. Does not bubble turns to powder after a few months on the top half of the pipe. After about 6 month you can wipe it off with a wet rag and paint again. You will need to paint the upper half of the pipe 2 times a year, the bottom half has not been repainted yet. Wet sand ( water on the sand paper), scotch brite, dry, paint. Still have not used a full can yet, have painted the pipe, and the muffler. |
Jugallo94
| Posted on Friday, June 15, 2007 - 04:36 pm: |
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So I was thinking about the poor mans force, since I am poor. How would the v&H header work with the d&d can. Any body know this one? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, June 15, 2007 - 10:47 pm: |
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It would probably fit, however the V&H is like 4" shorter - so the effect won't be the same. The Force is very long, stepped, and ends in a reverse megaphone about 4" past the wheel; the Jardine/WB header is also very long and when you add the very free flowing D&D can which ends about 2" shorter than the Force - the results become like a quieter version of the Force. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Mabueller
| Posted on Saturday, June 16, 2007 - 10:24 pm: |
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I have the V&H which I repacked and it still is louder then I'd like. Which aftermarket exhaust would folks consider the quietest but still adds performance? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, June 16, 2007 - 11:02 pm: |
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Jardine with silencer core. |
Xgecko
| Posted on Sunday, June 17, 2007 - 07:38 am: |
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I concur |
Mabueller
| Posted on Sunday, June 17, 2007 - 12:58 pm: |
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Thanks, guys! |
Tnthumper
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 06:41 pm: |
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here's a thought...has anyone had their exhaust powder coated to match body color? I will prob have my proseries coated this coming winter and just curious if anyone has done the matching color. John |
Xgecko
| Posted on Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 08:40 am: |
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powder coating probably won't last temp is just too hot but ceramic coating will my header is a dark gray maybe a shade or two darker than the frame. It looks good and doesn't discolor like a bare pipe |
Sking1973
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2007 - 09:27 am: |
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OK, I'm going to try not to start a debate here , but I'm looking into aftermarket exhaust systems. They all seem to be in the same price range and I've narrowed my choices down to two, the V&H and Jardine. Any suggestions which might narrow my choice to one of those? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2007 - 11:14 am: |
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Repacking the MUFFLER gets "OLD" !!! In BLASTing LaFayette |
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