| Author | Message | ||
     Buellfart |
got Autometer oil temp gg.for 2k m2-says to attach hot wire to ignition and that`s about it-tap into R/BLK wire,"ignition on"by switch,I assume,or anywhere from there and the fuse box?Says to ground to frame-no neg. wire in harness up front?All else is well but the power source-want to be sure so no breakdowns. | ||
| Buellfart |
What,nobody looks here.It`s a simple question. | ||
| Buellfart |
Does anyone out there think the internet is almost a complete waste of time?For every simple question there are either no answers or a hundred unrelated ones.Its` nothing but a giant yellow pages;either I`m getting old or my computer is or both.I have no F--king idea who to ask,or where to ask without encountering a thousand adds or innane conversations about absolutely nothing that is relavant to my particular search.Anybody out there feel similarly,sometimes? | ||
| Fasted |
get a splicing connector like you would use on a trailer set up. any wire that has power when the ignition is on is a power source (+). run the ground (-) to any metal fastener that contacts bare metal on the frame. that is the same idea as the ground strap from the battery attaching to the frame. chill out on the "whole world sucks" outlook. there are plenty of people to help you. problem is, no one is ever in as big a hurry to help as you are to get said help. ever apply for a job and wait around for them to call you back? we are here for you, man. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Maybe it's you.  I read your question on two different occasions, and was struggling to figure out exactly what you were asking. When I finally figured out what I think it is, it's a fairly specific question that can be easily answered by opening your service manual and looking at your schematic, and reading back the color code for the right answer. I gave my Cyclone service manual to the guy that bought my Cyclone off ebay, so I can't help you. I could try and find the PDF for the S1 manual, and hope nothing changed, but it seemed more prudent for somebody with the right year manual to check it. You also seem to have an interesting set of data already (a model of automotive oil temperature sensor that will more or less plug right into an M2), and offered no information about it. What it was, where you got it, how you hooked it up. Had you provided some of that information, and maybe a picture, people would have been a lot more likely to engage you on a nice simple question like "where do I pick up a switched 12V plus up near the headlight?". | ||
| Court |
You need to learn to speak more clearly. Try to structure your question precisely to allow a person to think and answer cogently. I get many e-amils saying "I have a problem with my Buell". No name, no contact information and no details. When you write the question, read it and ask yourself, given this information could I answer? Court | ||
| Bomber |
BuellFart -- there are a number of switched hot and negative wires available in the dash area -- sit down with some lemonade and the wiring diagram and pick one. Easy, yes? The internet certainly CAN be frustrating, specially if you're attmpting to learn something you know little about -- terminology can be daunting, and without it, it's tough to communicate precisly hope some of these posts have helped (btw, if the question was really all that simple, you would have known the answer, right? {grin}) | ||
| Buellfart |
Sorry guys,badweb one of the best sites on the web and I shouldnt have used it to rant.OK,there is on wire on the ignition switch,I think its blk/red,that is at the "ignition on" terminal at the back of the switch.Using Autometer oil temp gauge-manual says attach gauge to ignition wire.I`m sure this is the wire,everything else hooked up,and the one hot wire from the meter simply taps into this "on" wire at the back of the switch ,right.Instructions also say to supply seperate 4 amp fuse closest to source of power tap,all set,where is the best place to tap this fused hot wire from the meter into the electrical system:at the swtich,at the fuse box,anywhere in between? Does it matter?I`m an electrical dummy among other things. | ||
| Mikej |
Unless the Autometer meter is specifically designed for and unless the instructions are specifically written for your specific bike, I wouldn't rely too heavily on trusting the meter makers suggestion to look for a blk/red wire. Use a circuit tester, or a light bulb and some wire, to test what hot wire you intend to plug into to ensure it's off when you want it off and on when you want it on. On my M2 I ran new hot/cold wires from the battery up to a terminal block I mounted behind the flyscreen, then ran accessories from the new terminal block. About only thing I've tapped into the stock wiring harness was the Buell branded tach kit using the Buell installation instructions written for my bike model. I've also tapped into the wiring harness at the tail end of the bike to add some Back-Off branded led tail lights to augment the stock tail light. I don't like wiring, so this post is probably akin to rambling ranting. The old woodworker's adage of measure twice and cut once is a good generic rule to follow in this case. Check and verify twice, then tap once. Although it is easier to untap than it is to uncut something. Ranting, like farting, is good in that it relieves excess pressure and allows one more comfort to continue (ignoring the discomfort to others in the nearby vicinity). Go slow, take your time, relieve some pressure, and all should work out well in the end. Okay, I'm done, just crashed a computer workstation and had a moment to kill. Lucky you.  (I guess I should also add, full disclosure and all that, that I'm currently listening to a CD by Clownhead titled "Those Darn Accordians", sort of a polka rap wierd sort of thing that I found at a thrift shop yesterday. Sort of puts one into a wierd funky mood. I think I'm going to go to the local Triumph dealership at lunch today, lucky them, should be fun. ) (Message edited by mikej on April 24, 2007) | ||
| Reepicheep |
It's been a while, but when I ran a GPS power lead on the Cyclone, I ended up running it from an additional battery lead, probably because I wanted it to keep running when the bike was off (it was a bad GPS that took forever to get a lock). On my XB9SX, there was a positive lead under the flyscreen, and I tapped into that. I have full details in the knowledge vault. I have also used the tail light lead (positive) to power little stuff like this. Easy to find, easy to get at, and always on when the bike is running. How does the oil temperature gauge get it's feed? Does it come with some sort of probe or something? Or does it tap into some sort of already installed oil temperature sensor on the bike? | ||
| Bomber |
I've had great luck tapping off the headlight positive lead -- easier to get at than the ignition wires (more slack) and switched, to boot! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Does that mean the temperature guage goes off when his brights go on though? Or do you do something creative with diodes? | ||
| Bomber |
good point, Reep -- I can't remember the last time I ran my brights for more than a moment . . . . . strike my suggestion | ||
| Buellfart |
I`m told that hooking up to the headlite can be kind of dangerous-especially at 2am on a dark country road lined with lots of trees-ouch.I also dont want to upset any existing relays.Now,as soon as I find out what a relay is I`m going to connect that and then the gauge to the relay.I`m gonna go with the flyscreen idea,thanks everybody. | ||
| Buellfart |
Wow,my previous well prepared speech was just wiped out,start over.Have 2000,M2 with s3 dash and fairing-all works well;I`m just trying to fill the hole in the dash with a 2" autometer oil temp gauge.Sending unit is in and grounded,gauge in in and grounded--I need a hot wire on the dash,one that will not be "overloaded",(manual says dont use headlamp.Autometer instructions say"wire to ignition switch or other 12 v. circuit".I know so little I dont know whats ground and hot from wiring diagram,dislexia-get headache when following little lines,they go up,they go down and here and there-please just need known good hot wire near instruments,need to know it`s color and best place to splice into.No one wants to commit to a specific answer,sorry,this is as specific as I can get.thanks,any specific help appreciated. | ||
| Buellfart |
to what extent do I need to educate myself to find the best hot wire on the 2000 m2 dashboard that I can attach a power (plus) wire for a new gauge.I have tried everything I can think of on the internet.Nothing specific-has anyone else in the entire history of the M2 ever connected an extra gauge to their m2,if so,what color was the wire.I don`t know enough to reconnect the battery and start poking holes in all the wires until I find one I like.Has anyone else had this problem or am I just really wierd or something? | ||
| Reepicheep |
OK, S1 service manual schematic is at: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/BU7b.pdf On the 96 S1 (no guarantee it did not change) there is an ignition V+ going to the brake side (BE (blue) to P1 to GY (grey) wire). Looks like there is an orange wire going to the tach that is also switched and fused ignition. On the key switch, it looks like the R/GY is switched, but not fused beyond the 30 amp master circuit breaker (so I'm not sure I would recommend that one). On Spedometer, O/W looks like switched and fused V+. On the brake switch, O/W also looks like switched and fused V+. On the Horn, Y/BK out of P6 pin 7 (GN into that pin) looks like switched and fused V+. The Tail Light O/W lead (seeing a trend here?) looks to be switched and fused. No promises anything stayed the same here between the online S1 manual and your current bike, so check with a meter before you commit to anything. So where does the sender hook up? | ||
| Buellfart |
thanks,finally,after much hesitation,too much,one could argue ,I went with the blue and orange wires near the fuse box for the lite and meter.So far, so good.Much anxiety while riding for any distance.Checking constantly for anything.My mechanic gets 100 dollars and hour-S.F.Bay Area.He won`t install anything unless it`s new and came with all the parts-of course he charges for incomplete installations and hands me the parts right back again with a few suggestions on how to do it myself--I love living in this litigious society,its` so efficient. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! Sounds like they switched up some colors (which is not a surprise I suppose). Going in near the fuse box is the safest and least confusing, that was a good call. | ||
| Buellfart |
Update:wanted to fire it up today-nothing,checked all the normal stuff,no lites,nothing.I knew it,I knew I`d F__k something up.I hate electrical stuff,hate,hate,hate....Now I HAVE to take it to my 100 dollar mechanic and I know he`s going to ream me a new •••••••. | ||
| Buell_bert |
Try using the Hot Wire to the Horn.It should work and if for some reason it blows the fuse, your not really out anything as far as hurting the proper operation of the riding experience | ||
| Sparky |
Relax. It's probably something simple. Start with the basics. Is the battery dead? It's best to check it with a simple voltmeter that one can buy at Radio Shack or auto parts store for around $15. If it has approx 12 VDC measured at the battery terminals, remove the battery cables, negative first, and make sure the battery posts and ends of the cables are clean. Reinstall the cables, positive cable first; make sure the hold-down bolts are clean and tight. See if you got lights. If so, try the starter. If it doesn't crank, hook up a 2 amp battery charger for a few hours. If no lights, then check the other end of the battery ground cable, making sure it is clean and bolted tight. If you are with me so far and you found the problem, you've saved $85 and gained confidence in your troubleshooting abilities. More to the point though, if the battery went dead after you wired up the gauge and sending unit, perhaps one or both wires were tapped into a wire(s) that is not switched off with the key and it's draining the battery when the bike is turned off. If you are not sure you are on the correct 12 VDC wires, it would be best to test where you hooked up the wires using the voltmeter again as follows. Undo the gauge wire that goes to the 12 VDC source. Or is it two wires, one to the sending unit and one to the gauge? Check for voltage at the end of the gauge wire and the wire that you tapped into. With the key off, the voltmeter (set to read DC volts) should read zero volts. If it reads anything other than zero, you have selected a wire that is not switched off with the key. With the key on, it should read approx 12 VDC. Disconnect the sending unit wire where it goes to its 12 VDC source. Test that wire, key off, the same way as for testing the gauge wire. It should also read zero VDC. | ||
| Buellfart |
thanks,Sparky,I wish I`d heard this first-I just assumed everything off the fuse box was activated by the key-still have to check under the hood though-must fortify myself with a black russian first. |
