| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
They give complete tire specs, but then again they're not HD tires, otherwise, who knows. | ||
| Xlwp |
Ya'll might find this interesting, as far as a Sport-Trans substitute http://www.mobil.com/mobil_productdata/motorcycle.html Scroll down and check out the part about wet clutches and such. PB | ||
| Ccryder |
Hey Paul: Was this in reference to engine oil or gear lube? I did see the "wet clutch" reference but it was to engine oil, like the UJM's. Neil S. | ||
| Xlwp |
Neil, Actually both. As ya know some of the imports share lube between the motor and trans/primary. The way I take it is, any of them would serve us well as either engine oil or trans/primary lube. It says "These products will provide excellent performance in motorcycle engines that are designed with a common engine/transmission lubrication system" Does anyone else read it that way or am I off base here? BTW, I clicked on the link I posted above and it went nowhere. Try this one instead. http://www.mobil.com/mobil_productdata/automotive/transmission/motorcyclepds_content.html PB | ||
| Ara |
The way I read it is that Mobil is saying its synthetic motor oils won't cause clutch slippage in those applications (Japanese, German, Italian) where the clutch is bathed in the engine oil. All of those bikes (I know of no exceptions) have a transmission that is driven by gears rather than by chain as on our machines. Mobil is not saying, and I don't know how important this is, that their synthetic motor oils are formulated to provide proper lubrication to chain and gear primaries. Since the primaries on our machines are designed to be lubricated with a much higher viscosity libricant than engine oil, I sure wouldn't assume that Mobil 1 engine oil is a suitable primary lubricant for Buells and Harleys (V-Rod excluded). | ||
| Blake |
Ara: Transmission/gear lubricants use a different viscosity rating scale than that used for engine oils. Surprisingly, the viscosity of 75W90 gear oil is very close to that of 10W40 engine oil. In cases where tranny-only lubrication is involved, the additive formulations are quite different. Tranny-only lubricant can contain more/better EP additives without having to worry about their effects in the combustion chamber. Tranny only lubricant does not need to have the same resistance to combustion byproducts and contaminants like engine oil does. Why two different arbitrary scales? To keep us from confusing the two and using the wrong type of lubricant. Blake | ||
| Buelliedan |
Blake, Thank you. I just learned something!!! | ||
| Ara |
Blake: Thanks. I never ever would have guessed that there were several viscosity scales. Similar to the fluid, avoirdupois, and troy ounces thing, I suppose. I always wondered by 75w-90 gear oil was so unexpectedly runny. Thanks! There are Buell owners here who use Mobil 1 75w-90 gear oil in lieu of Sport Trans and recommend it? Are there any reasons not to make this switch? Are there any compelling reasons to do so? Russ | ||
| Blake |
I've not researched the Sport Trans issue. Though probably unjustified, I am concerned due to the lack of a real specification on the lubrication requirements of the tranny. The wet clutch means I gotta change it every 5K miles anyway, so I've been using the Sport Trans. I'd like to be able to knowledgably substitute something I can pick up at the local auto-parts store. My common sense tells me that it's a simple standard type transmission, any reputable 75W90 gear lube should be just fine as long as it doesn't interfere with clutch performance. Therein lies the question. Until I am confident that off the shelf gear lubricants are not going to adversely affect the clutch, I'll stick with the HD stuff. I just buy it 4 quarts at a time. C'mon HD, do the right thing! Give us the specs!! | ||
| Iggy |
got the bike back last nite gonna be nice to it for a couple hundred miles and then really test out the gearbox original impression is nice i'm very stoked to have the bike back it's easy to bitch about buells but once you've lost yours for a bit, the excitement of the return is so much fun and fun is what it's all about thanx to chosa's in mesa, az for the work iG | ||
| Cyclone8u |
Here's my $.02.... I've used several oils from different manufacturers and have concluded there to be very little difference between them in clutch feel or shifting. As long as you use gear oil that is compatible with limited slip differentials (read: clutches) then you should be fine. At first I thought that the switch to Mobil1 made a huge difference, but the fact that at the time of the change I also adjusted my primary chain I think made more of a difference than the oil. I do think that the heavier oils (Redline Heavy) degraded shifting performance in the colder weather we get up here (wow what a revalation!!) but the lighter weights seemed on par with Sport Trans. So now I stick with Mobil1 75w-90 becuase I can get it anywhere and don't have to drive 120 mile round trip to the dealer. If I had a dealer worth a damn near me I would probably just stick with the Sport Trans. I agree with Blake, but H-D should give us a real spec on not just the trans oil, but every fluid in the bike including the forks. But I digress....btw, winter sucks. Mobil 1 Gear Lube -jsw | ||
| Blake |
Good info, thanks! As to fork oil, I suppose we could use the same oil as other bikes with similar grade Showa forks? Blake (gonnamovethelubediscussiontothelubepage) | ||
| Ara |
Blake: The factory service manual for my '97 S3 specifies 5 weight fork oil. I recently changed out the factory fork oil (which was red and strongly reminded me of transmission fluid) and replaced it with 5 weight Bel Ray. No problems. I mentioned this to "Cap", the service manager at Rocket H-D in Huntsville, AL, and he wanted to know why I didn't go to 7 weight. Evidently this is an option. Anyway, the forks feel fine and seem to be a bit more controlled in its movement. But I noticed a tremendous difference associated with cleaning and properly lubing the steering head bearings. Elsewhere on the BBS there had been mention of the stingyness with which the factory lubes the steering head, and that was sure the case on my own bike. There was just enough lube on the bearings to call it "lubed" and little more. When I cleaned, properly lubed, and tensioned the head bearings to spec, the difference in the handling of the bike was nothing short of dramatic! Evidently I'd gotten used to a certain amount of friciton in the steering head, and once it was operating as intended the bike initially felt positively squirrely! I got used to the new responsiveness rapidly, and now the bike is even more of a joy to ride than before. I wouldn't have thought that possible. Anybody who hasn't lubed the steering head bearings on their bike should at least raise the front end and use a fish scale to see how much force is required to turn the fork from one side to the other. Factory spec for my '91 S3 is 7.5 to 9.5 pounds with the scale hooked through the hole on the end of he axle. Russ | ||
| Sportyeric |
If you put in a different transmission, say a Baker, is it necessary to replace the main drive gear? Does the wear pattern match up require that gear to be new also? Do Baker trannys come with that? Or recommend it? I can't afford that sort of stuff. What I'm considering is replacing my entire tranny cassette with a used one that's available for a good price but if I have to change out the main drive gear, the one that the belt pulley fastens to, and also, I suppose, the matching countershaft 5th, then its not cost effective and I'll just fix the original. I'd appreciate any input. | ||
| Rempss |
Tech info question. If I only change the detent plate - upgrade unit, do I need to adjust anything else, or can I just R&R the plate? Thanks, Jeff | ||
| Aaron |
You *can* just R&R the plate, but it's a good idea to check the pawl adjustment while you're in there. It's quick and simple to do. You do have a shop manual, right? | ||
| Rempss |
Yes, I do. Guess I was looking for the "correct" procedure, now I know. The trans is a simple assembly so no big deal. I guess after Nallin Stage 2 heads & a 1250 kit I shouldn't cut corerns now. Thanks. Jeff | ||
| Aaron |
To change that plate, you don't actually gotta pull the gearbox, though. A word of warning ... I changed the plate in my S2, M2, and S1. On the S1, I had to change it back. Look closely at the plate when you're in there, you'll see that it actually provides 2 functions, the detent function AND it keeps the drum from over-rotating on hard shifts, by virtue of a ramp running into the pawl arm. Well, on the S1, for whatever reason, there was too much clearance between that ramp and the pawl arm. A hard shift to 3rd would get me 3rd and a half, every time. I went back to the stock ramp and the problem disappeared. Eventually I stuck in a Baker smooth shift kit and that has no problem, either. Funny, though, the new detent plate works fine in the M2 and S2 and several thousand other Buells on the planet. Best of luck, AW | ||
| Sportyeric |
Aaron. I'm about to do my detent plate and my buddy just did his on an S1. How did you realize there was a problem? Hitting a false neutral? Or is it something you can see in the movement of the shifter forks while the cover is off that tells you it has gone past the desired gear? (I haven't been into the primary lately enough to remember what's visible.) | ||
| Aaron |
I realized there was a problem because after the change, EVERY time I tried to nail 3rd gear even medium hard, I got 3rd and a half. Then I opened it back up and spent a little time really looking at how it works and saw the problem. It has nothing to do with the shift forks, they're inside the gearbox. The detent plate and pawl arm are in the primary, just pull the clutch to get access to them. Just do an upshift to 3rd, hold the lever up (don't release it), and note how the pawl arm contacts another ramp (not the pair doing the detenting) to prevent over-rotation. Make sure yours makes contact; mine did not. Yours may very well be fine, as were both my M2's and S2's. AW | ||
| Rempss |
I found something inside my primary taht I cannot find in the service manual. I have removed the engine sprocket/clutch basket assembly, had it on/off about 3 times. The last time I pulled it, engine oil started leaking down from the shaft seal. After looking in the manual for some time and not finding anything, I looked at the inside if the sprocket and found a metal "spacer" (My memory says approx. 1 1/2" OD, 7/8" ID 1/2" Thick) magnetiized the the inside. Further investigation showed a rubber seal with a small circular coil spring that this spacer fits inside of. Anyway, I replaced the spacer inside the rubber seal and put the spring back on. No more leak. About 4000 miles on the bike (1999 X1), should I be replacing the seal/spring/spacer or is no more leak good enough here? Like I say no mention of these items in the engine/primary/alternator section of the manual. Thanks, Jeff | ||
| Aaron |
Jeff, that's your sprocket shaft seal. The spring goes around the lip of the seal to hold it tight against the spacer, a spring like that is very common on any lip type seal. Why the spring fell off I don't know, but that would sure mess up the sealing and could get engine oil into your primary. I'd replace the whole seal myself, if it fell of once it could fall off again, right? | ||
| Rempss |
Does it just press fit into the recess, or does it require special tools/procedures? Going to my local HD dealer today to pick it up, would just like to know what I am in for. Thanks again. | ||
| Aaron |
It just shoves in there like any other seal. Use an appropriate sized socket or something. I do believe there is a special tool, though. | ||
| Mrossi |
Just a question; I want to change the primary tensioner on my '00 X-1, do I need to change the sprocket shaft seal too ? And if so how complicated it is (obviously I haven't got a manual yet) Thanks M. Rossi | ||
| Rempss |
It's not neccessary I' sure, my spacer came out so I replaced it as a preventative item. The new seal was $7.50 and included the garter spring. I used 2 - 1 1/4" plumbing pvc couplings taped together & a rubber mallet to install. 1.5 minute job. Jeff | ||
| Blake |
MRossi: Like Jeff said. The answer is "No." Just install the new tensioner. Jeff's seal had obvious problems so he changed it as well. You might inspect your seal to ensure it's integrity. If you see a problem like Jeff did, then you can, as we like to say, "kill two birds with one stone."  | ||
| Rempss |
Royal Purple also lists a gear lube for use in Harley Davidson transmissions. Brian Nallin also recommended it. Read up at - wwww.royalpurple.com Jefgf | ||
| Snowsrfr18 |
Has anyone used Castrol Syntec or Redline (standard, not heavy) gear oil in their tranny? I know I'm probably beating a dead horse here, but I read through the posts and didn't find any info advising for or against them. I would assume that since they both are "formulated" for use in limited slip differentials that they would be ok to use. Thanks! Noah | ||
| Henrik |
When re-assembling the transmission, would you use assembly lube, or will regular tranny fluid or Mobil 1 grease work just as well/ TIA Henrik |
