| Author | Message | ||
     Sub65chris |
So here is my dilemma . I need to make a mold to customise my tail section and i have the vacume bag for the fiberglass and the materials to complete the project but i need a foam that will hold up to shaping and sanding but melt when i am done, obviously some kind of chemical melt sort of like styrafoam when you put acetone on it . I want to make a speed trunk out of fiberglass that will act as a speed hump on the back seat like the buell tail bag but hard . So my plan is to use foam and make the bags shape , then lay fiberglass over it . after the fiberglass sets then cut the lid open adn scoop the foam out , this would be alot easier with some kind of chemical assistance  . any sugestions for the type of foam to use? | ||
| Crashcourse411 |
Blue board at your local lumber yard does the trick. I use one inch in layers held together with a thin layer of liquid nail. It can easily be shaped with a wire wheel on a die grinder and once you are happy with the shape cover with a couple of layers of latex house paint then some mold release. Once covered with a couple of layers of glass you put in the acetone or gasoline and wala you have a finished piece. If you really want the outside of the part smooth I recommend that first part to be used as a female mold then you can make the part extremely smooth and you will have a mold to make more when the first one cracks or gets damaged. The mold can easily be covered in bondo or filler to get it as smooth as glass. I have done this for tank halves, seats, tail sections, and body work. The pros will make the mold of foam then take to a boat or bath tub manufacturer, and get it gel coated and sprayed with chop mat fiberglass. Once the mold get removed you have a nearly indestructible female that is smooth as glass and can be used a number of times. If you want the best make the mold stiff and since you are vacuum bagging get some carbon fiber and do prepreg, and cook it in an oven . It will be 2-3 times as light and look very cool when finished. you won't even need the weight of paint to make it look good. Good luck. Feel free to email me with any questions. Take your time and have plenty of patience. There have been a number of times I have "Monkey stomped" a mold and started over. Also keep in mind mounting the part before you even start making your buck, this will pay off big time. crashcourse411@netzero.net | ||
| Sub65chris |
thaks man i will check this stuff out this week and get started . oh yeah i have an old pull strap that i will use through the bottom adn strap under the seat . again thanks. | ||
| Yamahammer490 |
Forgive the simple question, but where is a good place to buy the stuff for fiberglassing? My local auto parts stores just sell the small cans of resin and little packs of cloth. | ||
| Bake |
What resin are you planning on using, epoxy will be OK but polyster will eat the foam and your project will be ruined. Not positive about vinylester. | ||
| Sub65chris |
i have some resin from work that will work very well and it will not eat the foam , some of the parts on my aircraft are foam core and teh foam is very sensitive to chemical interactions so the resin must be very gentle.the stuf comes from the hysol company and they are a part of loctite international. Napa also has some resin that comes in the gallon sizes if they dont have it onthe shelves ask them and im sure they will order you some . |
