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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archives OSB 001 » Archive through April 20, 2007 » Chain Slack Final Drive/Asking For Input « Previous Next »

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Ragnagwar
Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have a 2000M2 which has been converted to a chain final drive. Can anyone who has done the conversion give me an idea of what the proper amount of chain play should be?
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Rick_a
Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It varies depending on the sprocket sizes. The best way to find out is to put the bike up on stands (leaving the rear wheel and swingarm unloaded) and removing the shock. Set the suspension to where the chain is tightest and adjust for a slight bit of slack (like 1/4"). Put it back together and measure the chain deflection with both wheels on the ground. Don't forget to write it down!
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Ragnagwar
Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank's Rick,
But I would think the removed shock would allow the swingarm to move past the limits of the suspension, causing more slack than necessary when the shock is back in place. Unless you know ahead of time how much movement is actually allowed by the shock.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ragnagwar,

If you want to make sure you don't go past the shock travel limit, back off the pre-load all the way, and sit on the bike with a passenger (or just yourself if you're hefty enough). That should be enough to fully bottom the rear suspension.
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, April 20, 2007 - 06:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rick has the right idea. You want to compress the rear suspension so the rear axle, swingarm pivot, and front countershaft are in-line with each other and start your slack adjustment there. This is the point in the suspension's range of motion where the chain (and belt on a stock bike) is the tightest. Anywhere else in the range (up or down) the chain will naturally become looser.

Make sure the chain isn't too tight in this position or it'll stress your countershaft needle bearings.
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Ragnagwar
Posted on Friday, April 20, 2007 - 07:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank's "Hugh", tried that method but it still left doubts in the old thought process.
"DJ" I believe that is the solution I was looking for. I thought I had seen a drawing
of that exact process but I just couldn't find it again to verify it. Guess I just needed a little reassurance. O.K., time to
hang her from the rafters again and do it
right! Thank's for the help guys!
Be Safe!
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