| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Can you find the thread specs for the sensor and just use a matching SS nut? | ||
| Peter |
Henrik, If you're not in a hurry, I bought a tap to make my own. You'll just need to wait until I get back home. From memory, it's 18mm x 1.5mm pitch. I'd check the 1.5 though. Maybe it was 1.75. PPiA | ||
| Skulley |
Anyone know the location (nearist date), of the stud thread? looking to upgrade studs, nuts, gaskets also. Todays ride produced nasty back fireing. come to find out the front pipe lost its nuts, and I just torked 'em down a few rides back. It was mentioned some time back about welding the front mount bracket to the header, Insted of using clamp. Anyone see a problem in doing that. | ||
| Skulley |
Im using race header /can with old L style mount and stainless one tab clamp bracket. I havn't seen headers made with a solid front mount but it seems like it should work. | ||
| Jmartz |
The original race only header with the supertrapp car can had a welded double tab. I have used a single tab with pretty good results. The header I had set up like this cracked 3 times at the collector and I finally replaced for cosmetic reasons. Welds got too ugly. Jose | ||
| Vr1203 |
Looking for flat blue PC. .Hi, I'm trying to find a outfit that sells a flat bright blue powder coat that is on the header of the 2002 X1. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
VR, Try Classic Coatings in WI. They are the folks that do all the powder coating for Buell. I don't think that it's a standard powder as it normally is cured at 400 deg. Headers get a tad hotter than that especially close to the head. They can be found Here Classic Coatings Brad | ||
| Oldman |
i beleive they call them porcellain pipes and all though they might not look good blue on my grey/orange m2L having them orange coated would make the bike stand out a little more than it already does. my first buell, third bike in the garage and running out of room. i,ve been going through the bbs's to get an idea as to what i want to change my exhaust out to. and am still undecided, one of the best known bueller's around here recomended the force system, any opinions would be helpful and won't think they all stink. aka neil | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Vr1203 asked: I'm trying to find a outfit that sells a flat bright blue powder coat that is on the header of the 2002 X1. Just for information sake ...... High Performance Coating was contracted to coat the new blue header on the X1W Buell. They also offer (the only ones BTW) an extreme coating that reduces the header temp by 50% to the tough. The only drawback with this particular process is it only comes in 2 colors. Cheers, -JW:>) | ||
| 2bbetter |
Oldman, I 've been researching exhausts and trying to stay within a small budget. I've heard the V&H slipon's crack at the welds. The borla's are nice but get blackened with exhaust. Some like SuperTrapp. Force has been about 50/50 - a love hate thing. I went with WileyCO but I'm supposed to get it Jan 14th but 2 people have responded to me saying they really like theirs so we'll see. I paid $295 including shipping and there's no tax because they are located in Oregon (no state tax). Their warranty is life time. We'll see - I plan to review it on this site after I install it | ||
| Oz666 |
Does anyone know why BMC says that the stock airbox cannot be used with the factory race header? Also, is it stainless like the stock pipe? (I love the "wheat" colour). Thanx... | ||
| Oldman |
they say it's available in custom colors, but the x1 pipes are not a shiny coat like they are showing on those pipes, so what could they be using on the x1's? | ||
| Ccryder |
Hey Oldman: From my testing the V&H and White Bros were within 5% of the race system. Considering the reliabilty concerns with the V&H, I would go with the White Bros. I have a 2 Brothers that I have been running since August and have been very happy but I have not dyno'd it. Sitting, waiting in a very pretty polished condition, in my garage is the new Supertrap that should be very good. The reason why I feel this is BMC is also offering this same slip-on under their logo. As we all know BMC does do things right with exhaust systems and it has been rumored that Kerker (aka Supertrap) is the supplier of the Buell race system. Got to run, my Daughter need to do her homework. Later Neil S. p.s. 2 Neils will get us confused, especially since you are the third. | ||
| Oz666 |
So there is NOT a problem with the factory race header/stock airbox configuration? (15% off @ the not so local squealer on everthing, special orders included, tomorrow). I just wanted to know before I bought something I couldn't use. Sure hope it's stainless steel... Don (the only Buell in Buffalo) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
FYI for Boss owners. I ordered a new rear bracket for the Daytona Boss pipe. I ordered it directly from Stainless Steel Specialties. About $20.00 with shipping. It is MUCH thicker than the earlier versions. It is the same thickness as the new front clamp. I haven't mounted it up yet (waiting for cam cover to return from powder coaters) so I don't know the mounting proceedure. It's going to be a bit tricker than the earlier version due to it's added "spring" factor. It also has a shorter mounting tab than the earlier version. Should pull the rear of the pipe up about 3/4". I'll post pics tonight of the new vs old version. Brad | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jim, Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if CC did the headers as I knew it was a slighty different process (higher temp for cure if I remember correctly). I hopped over to their page, it says they do custom colors on headers also. Not sure what colors other than black and silver but may be worth a call. Colors are mentioned about halfway down this page Kind of confusing, at the bottom they mention black and gray only for the Exreme coating. Brad | ||
| Geyservillebob |
I've experienced a broken exhaust stud on my race kit equipped '99 S3T. I'm going to try to repair this myself using some of the experiences I've gleaned from the BBS archives. I broke the upper front stud, which is a bitch to get at primarily because of the stock air cleaner mount that is part of the front motor mount. I'm probably going to modify the bracket rather than remove it for the repair. One sort of problem I've run into is that I can't figure out how to completely remove the race header. Because of the extended collector the technique shown in the shop manual does not work. Does the motor need to be lowered to remove the race header? Some other trick? Also, any upgrades or cautions I should know about while I've got the exhaust systems off and apart? Thanks a bunch! Frank PS, not only was the nut loose on the unbroken stud below the broken one but also one of the nuts on the rear port was loose as was the bolt through the front mount for the muffler. I had less than 3000 miles since the kit installation. Let that be a lesson to me I guess. | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
get into the habit of checking your header nuts before every ride. i check mine religiously. just hand tight with a screwdriver type nut driver. if you try to torque them, you will soon be seeking advice on removing broken studs. some of the best sounding v-twins i've heard were sportsters, even 883 sporty's. my neighbor's 883 with screaming eagle slip-on's and barely cranking out 45hp sounds way better than my 101hp+ X1 with force intake, race ecm, race header and race muffler (gutted). i previously ran the V&H (also gutted). was not any better. is there something out there that can make my asphalt-shredding motor sound like an asphalt-shredding motor? do i have to invest in the force or bub bad dog systems. expensive R&D. has anyone installed bubs on their 2001 X1? any fitment problems as reported earlier? frustrated in san diego... | ||
| Pilk |
You might check sport twin. They have a link to D&D that has a video with the sound of the muffler on it, it sounds very good. Pilk | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Just received my race header ready muffler from Stainless specialties. I went with a 2.5" diameter core and 2.5" diameter oulet as opposed to the 3"/3" that Donn used, and went with a 30 degree off of straight exhaust instead of 90 degrees like Donns. Hard to believe that this thing isn't too loud, it's straight thru with little to stop the gasses or make them expand. We'll see, but I have a suspicion that this pipe will be too loud for my tastes. The rear clamps are crap, I'll have to fab something better.   | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Looks very nice Al, how much longer is the collector ? I think you will like the sound. Post pictures ! | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Bob Kaili, IMHO the Stainless Muffler seen above for the race pipe is a very attractive option. look in past posts in this section for more info. | ||
| Josh |
Just got my muffler from Stainless too. Looks great, like the WestTek only no bolts - it's all welded together. Rear clamp looks pretty beefy, much thicker than the WestTek one. Anyone know what the rubber thing is for? I think to work on a Buell you'd also need a short piece of steel for a hanger (assuming you can't use the "Z" bracket) Josh | ||
| Reepicheep |
Gyservillebob... those were my posts  I feel your pain. The problem is that idiot stock front exhaust mount. The ears on the rubber get quickly cut through, and you then have lots of slop and metal to metal contact, up until a nut works off and the a stud breaks. Attention everyone!!! If your Buell starts backfiring on deceleration, stop immediately and check your exhaust header nuts before it is too late. Anyway, after a lot of agonizing on my broken stud, here is my advice... 1) Take comfort in your worst case scenario... even if you were to totally butcher the operation and completely mangle a head, you are only looking at $300 for a whole new head assembly ready to bolt on direct from Buell, and you could have it on with a couple hours work. Still a lot of $$, but pretty good as worst case scenarios go. 2) Don't waste your time with the easy out. It will just snap off, and you will go from a really bad situation (a sheared off header stud) to a really really bad situation (a sheared off header stud with a hardened steel insert). 3) You can remove the entire head and have a machine shop get the old stud out and clean up the threads. If you have a buddy with a machine shop then this might make sense, but otherwise I think it makes more sense to try to do it on the bike, and just get a new head if it goes badly. 4) A dremel tool with a diamond bit can actually be very usefull here... never tried one of those flexy shaft attachments, but that might let you go where drills can't. That was how I finally dug out the tip of the easyout from mine. 5) Custom chrome sells a special kit that has a drill bit and a bit guide that is supposed to work pretty well. It runs about $100 though, so its expensive for just one job. I should have bought it, used it, and we should have been passing it around this list as the need arises (selling it back and forth amongst ourselves for $50 or so). 6) The best advice I got, and what I should have done, was to just go straight to a reverse cut drill bit, be very carefull to keep it as straight and centered as possible, and keep going up sizes until you can get the old bolt out with a chisel / dental pick. The stud might come out once the internal stresses are relieved, but if not, then you just retap whatever hole you end up with. What I ended up doing, and it did not work out half bad, was to just do my best with a normal cut drill bit, drill the right size hole, and retap the stupid thing for the normal size header stud. By the time I got to the full depth for the hole, I could see I was off by about half a bolt width (I could see the old bolt and case boundry). I figure the bolt has to be at least as hard as the case, and it was sure as heck not going anywhere... that thing is an INCREDIBLY tight fit. This, with the new exhaust front mount, has held up very well. The real test will be in the next few weeks, when I plan on pulling the headers to polish them, and put them back on. This is where the whole think could go badly again. I also got some nice shiny stainless steel nuts to double nut the studs with. These end up going right to the end of the studs, and make it easy to check at a glance if anything has come loose... if these things were to back off much at all, they would simply fall off, and it would be very obvious at a glance (without any burnt fingers). Good luck! Bill | ||
| Blake |
Bill: Thanks for documenting and sharing your hard earned wisdom. I'm going to check my nuts right now. Hope they haven't fallen off! Blake | ||
| Loki |
Bill I feel the pain! I broke a stud this past summer, while trying to take the pipe off the bike. That one c-note worth of drilling jig does work. The shop I took mine to was looking for an excuse to order one. Ordered it, tried it out, it worked. Didn't even have to remove the head. My cost? the price of the jig. After more thought I have considered buying one for myself. With the guide and a pancake drill adapter. You would never need to remove a head to perform this task. Loki | ||
| V2win |
When it comes to keeping those exhaust nuts on, there is nothing better than stage 8 locking nuts. I put mine on in 98, after having problems with loose exhaust flanges. I have not had a problem since. I think I paid $7 for them. All evos use the same kit. | ||
| Aaron |
If the factory nuts are loosening up, it's a sign that something else is wrong! Fix the problem, not the symptom. | ||
| Geyservillebob |
Bill, thanks for the recap. You're right it was your posts that I saw along with some responses from bighairyralph and others. I did get the reverse twist bits in a variety of sizes (small to big) based on those previous posts. I'm wondering now whether I should go for the jig. What is the fix for the front bracket? Is it the part number listed at the top of this page?? Updated exhaust bracket S1001.01A1 Also, there was some mention of using a hand drill for this job. I can see how the hand drill might make head damage less likely but are there other benefits? Thanks a lot for the encouragement! It doesn't need to come completely off the bike for this job but I'm still wondering how to remove the race header. Frank | ||
| Oz666 |
Hi, Thank you to everyone who checked on the S3T fitment question, but now I have the answer: ATTENTION: According to BMC, they (BMC) do NOT make a factory race header to fit S3T's (at least `98 S3T's), so go buy them somewhere else. Further, BMC says that people who own S3T's are NOT interested in performance - only touring - so they have no plans to make the race header for S3T fitment. Also, it is made of "we don't know" material, so it must be some REALLY good stuff!!! Don (the only Buell in Buffalo) |
