Author |
Message |
Mike86ttype
| Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2007 - 11:10 pm: |
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does anybody have the part number on those. thanks |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2007 - 11:48 pm: |
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First& second gear Shifter fork - 34142-89c FIRST GEAR Mainshaft: 35762-89a Countershaft: 35763-89a SECOND GEAR Mainshaft: 35796-00 Countershaft: 35797-00 I have found that each time a dealership has went into the primary/trans. they replaced the main bearings as well -I'd probably suggest that also - as well as perhaps the following: If I was going that far and was planning on enjoying the bike - a baker 5 speed drum kit and XB 12 sprocket and chain would go in as well - both worthwhile long term investments in reliability and promoting tranny/primary/Engine longevity as well - lol - I'll shut up now;0) GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Peppwaves03
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 07:27 pm: |
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Hey guys dumb question but when adjusting the primary: Per the manual there is a chain limiting screw and a jam nut (spacer has been removed). Which one one do I loosen and then tighten up when trying to adjust the primary? Do I loosen both then tighten the chain limiting screw and then the jam nut? I'm having a hard time getting the Jam nut bolt loose. Thanks guys! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 07:36 pm: |
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Read up about 10 posts or so and your answer will be there - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Mabueller
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 07:43 pm: |
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>Bring it over, I'll do it for you.... Thanks for the offer Swampy, I was just joshing with you though! |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 11:12 pm: |
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I'm not kidding, If you are riding this way and will be in need of a tire..or anything for that matter in the middle of your trip, ship it here and it will be waiting for you to put on when you get here. I think thats how the Badweb works...right? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 11:35 pm: |
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Swampy-right on! Thats exactly how the Badweb (and the brotherhood of motorcyclists) works. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 11:39 pm: |
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Peppwaves03- Loosen the jam nut, then turn the bolt. Be careful not to overtighten the nut (quite a few primary covers have been ruined this way). If you have this much trouble undoing the nut, its been over tightened-it doesnt need to be that tight. Going by the torque specs in the manual is the best way to go. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 11:47 pm: |
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Mike86- outer lens-turn signal #68966-99Y $1.55 (but some say they're unavailable separately?). inner lens-turn signal #68967-99Y $ (seems unavailable). I dont know a quick fix for the sagging pegs (never tried or had them on long enough)! |
Peppwaves03
| Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 12:03 am: |
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gearheadariko thanks a ton for the tip/insight. I'm from Santa Monica, CA currently living in Michigan. Have you gone out to Malibu and the canyons out there? Wish I had my Buell out there to rip up those canyons! |
P3newbie
| Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 05:34 pm: |
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hey guys question? what is the bolt size and thread count on the master cylinder brake line bolt? i am customizing my rear brake line and need to replace the in-line pressure light switch with one that bolts to the master cylinder. my original steel line broke off completely during my road trip this weekend. makes for a very interesting stop when things like that occur. BTW, its perfect riding weather here in AZ. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 07:02 pm: |
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What? - There is a rear brake? Geez why doesn't somebody tell me about that - seriously - I so rarely use my back brake - that the one time the line was broke a friend had to tell me after looking the bike over - the brake fluid was gone - we figured since it was dry - probably a couple of months - lol - go ride and unless your in gravel or dirt or water - don't bother with that back brake, it will just cause trouble. IMHO - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 08:40 pm: |
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Part # H0405.9B Banjo bolt is the same bolt for front or rear calipers or master cylinders. The parts manual doesnt list a spec, but all you should really need is new washers # H0412.01AO (which can be reused if you get lucky). A good hyd/brake line shop should have both banjo bolts and washers. |
Slowhand96
| Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 11:21 pm: |
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Mike86 Don't pay $30.00 for signals on Ebay! LOL.. they are downright cheap at the dealer. My pegs were a bit saggy too. First I made sure the y thingie the pegs mount to was straight then I pinched the underside of the hinge end of the peg with a pair of BIG slip joint pliers. The hinge end of my pegs was beginning to flair out on the bottom and pinching them back straight worked wonders for making the pegs straight. |
Slowhand96
| Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 11:30 pm: |
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EZ! Shame on you!!! You should always use BOTH brakes!!! It's a good habit that could save your life someday. Why throw away 50 to 25% of your braking power? Plus there are times when just a touch of rear brakes could save yer arse but that same touch of front brakes could put you on it. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 12:30 am: |
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More like 10% and as likely to high side you in a corner, most MSF instructors teach the back brake so you'll know how to use it, but the sport bike instructors say that besides sand, dirt, gravel, mud, and water there is not a lot of use for it on the street - for a cruiser - thats a different story - since the quality of their rear brake is close to their front - though I hear its a lot better now - but really in the pros there are only a handful who use their rear brake in the turns. Me - I'm a lucky guy - though the road conditions can be rough, usually they are clean and you can enjoy even smooth goat paths in the Bay area - I use my rear brake in the above conditions and I use my front just to be smooth in the turns - knowing just how much power to take a turn is half the learning curve - you can search the debate in this here on the BADWEB - both Thumper and Quick Board - I had to call in some instructors to help with my point - lol - the front break is your friend - use it wisely, use the rear only when needful to do so (but practice with it upon occasion - just in case). Skills practice is always key. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 12:42 am: |
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Please, dont anybody mention "contact patch"!!! |
P3newbie
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 01:27 pm: |
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thanks for all the insight on the rear brake, i use it @25% when necessary, i just prefer to have all parts working just in case. i am doing away with the undertail metal/switch/rubber line. i just wanted to know the specs so i could pick up a pressure switch from my local speed shop. thanks for your input. gotta go-time to ride. |
Blake
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 06:43 pm: |
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My view is that the rear brake on a sportbike is good mostly for wearing out the rear brake pads. I don't use the rear brake except in situations where front traction may be seriously compromised. My bike will still stoppie on wet pavement, pretty sure a Blast would too with the proper tires. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 09:49 pm: |
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Blake: You need to get a 2000 BLAST as you are missing all the fun !!! A BLAST is a "BLAST" to ride !!! The rear brake on a BLAST is not like the rear brake on a TUBE FRAME as it is easy to lock up !!! In BLASTing LaFayette |
Slowhand96
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 11:47 pm: |
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OK I'll avoid mentioning the CP.. I can't speak from a racing standpoint, I am coming from an MSF ridercoach position, I teach for both Comprehensivesafety.org and the Minnesota Motorcycle Safety Center. I totally disagree with both your statements. That rear brake is about 50% of your breaking power until the weight starts to shift to the front. And I absolutely disagree that there is not much use for it on the street, if using it can knock 5 or so feet off your stopping distance and that 5 feet means the difference between stopping next to a car or stopping four feet into the car.... I'd be in the habit of using it. "and is likely to high side you in a corner"? Why are you messin' with your breaks in a corner? According to our curriculum thats another no-no. Corner procedure, Slow, look, press, and roll on the throttle.... The only way a rear brake is going to high side you in a corner is if you are foolish enough to make three mistakes in a row. 1, enter too fast and have to use brakes in the first place. (or maybe a critter jumped out in front of you and you didn't have the presence of mind to swerve) 2,use too much pressure and lock it up. 3,let it go after you lock it up. Personally, I think if I had to scrub off a little speed in a corner I would rather use the brake that isn't going to upset the geometry of my bike while I'm leaning into it. On the lighter side, I have seen blasts do stopies and lots of other crazy stunts (accidentally by students) on the range. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 01:10 am: |
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Shoot - I did a wheelie first time I turned on my bike and a stopie just cause I could - I took MSF and I never said don't bother with the rear brake, I said practice that skill, you never know when it may come in useful. However, reality speaking though - the use of the back break in a lot of situations is not needed and shouldn't be used as well. Of course if you need every bit of stopping power in a straight line on a clear dry road - use your rear as well. To hold yourself on a hill, saving the front for the down hill is good as well - the rest well, probably not so good. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 01:41 am: |
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I cant help it...I agree (or disagree?). The rear brake is almost worthless on the Blast under any kind of hard stopping (at relatively low speeds) it locks up easily, but you should learn how to use it. (on big Harleys you'd better learn to use the rear brake!). Hitting the front brake will high side you faster than hitting the rear. My sore point with the MSF (but I strongly recommend taking the course) is the whole straighten up before/while braking. That just sounds like bad advice (and I know one person who lost his face doing it-yes his face-California is a bad place to go off the side of the road). Whether its on the track or in the canyons, imho, you'd better learn how to brake through a turn or bad things can happen (and if you're going so fast that braking will lead to bad things, then you're going too fast or should be on a track). Again the MSF course is great, but a few things I find fault with (one other thing that comes to mind is the instructors kept telling me to keep my knees clamped to the gas tank. Between the little Blast and what the good Lord gave me, thats not happening very often!!!) |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 01:50 am: |
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PW03-I dont get up to the canyons that way much, I usually just 'Blast' past them up the 101 to the less populated areas. They are some nice roads though. Does everyone talk on their cell phones in Michigan while driving like in LA & the OC? |
Drfeelgood
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 07:10 am: |
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Everybody talks on the cellphone whilst driving everywhere.... |
Sarodude
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 01:01 pm: |
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The MSF curriculum is not about braking, but about STOPPING. If you really look at it, their worst case scenarios all seem to point to coming to a complete stop. * Keep the rear locked up * Change all the way down (see below) * Disengage drive (some of the WORST advice to give regarding driveline management - ESPECIALLY during threshold situations) WTF. I mean, W T F. The classes are still worth taking. However, the curriculum is designed around doing damage control around a group of folks who, more often than not, should never even have LOOKED at a motorcycle. Teach matching revs instead of this clutch in, 1st gear, lowest common denominator insanity. And the statement of "until the weight starts to shift to the front"..... THe weight STARTS to shift to the front as soon as you begin to decel either via engine braking or any application of brakes. At the end of the day, a lot of this kinda stuff comes down to religious beliefs. We can argue all day long about all sorts of stuff. Hopefully we're all just trying to help. And, BTW, what's with the percentages? WTF doe 10% or 50% mean to the guy who's ass is on the seat? Seriously, is there some brake line pressure guage that comes standard on all bikes that I'm not seeing? Is there a brake rotor / wheel hub torque indicator with a little LCD on the dash? Please.... These are numbers having to do with how much weight winds up on which wheel in a given situation. They can't account for a rider's perception of hand vs foot strength, master vs operating piston leverage, brake pad / rotor vs tire leverage, whatever. You do 50 / 50 braking? PROVE IT. -Saro |
P3newbie
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 02:30 pm: |
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it was not my intent to create a front rear brake debate. i created my own rearsets, and the metal line fractured from the vibration, so i customized it. for the record, my rear brake is for sitting at stop lights so i can rest my hand, and the jacka$$es who text/yap on their phones don't rearend me. hey people its called a headset. |
Swampy
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 04:20 pm: |
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I'm stuck in Alpena again tonight, its fricken cold and snowing again... there has been a moratoreum on firearm and ammunition sales in the area and the bars are open 24 hours. Wish me luck I make it back down state in one piece... |
Carlost
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 05:42 pm: |
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Swampy how you making out with the Avon Viper Strykes? Would you still recommend them? How many miles have you put on them? Thanks! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 06:37 pm: |
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P3newbie could we have a pic of your rearsets - always interested in custom projects - lol - my middle name - the time I busted my rear steel line I just ordered another one - so far its been holding out well and I make sure not to hit it with my foot - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |