| Author | Message | ||
     Littlebuggles |
So I'm a complete idiot, old battery tested bad so replaced approx 3 weeks ago, still not running right. I have not checked voltage reg output but have found my multimeter (finally). Here's the real problem, I needed to jump the bike to start it this morning to leave work. Still dark and I've been working some 16 hr shifts this week. Well anyway, maybe you already saw this coming, I hooked the jumpers up backwards... Just figured that out by the way, came in in my wife's car to try and figure it out. All fuses in the fuse box are okay, main circuit breaker has continuity. One of the fuse like diodes was reading around .54-.54 and the other .78 to .89 ish. I don't know how to check the starter relays, that may or may not be the problem. What did I most likely kill? When the cables were hooked up my lights were all working but the odo stopped showing anything but back light, and the bike wouldn't do anything. Once the cables were removed it all went very dim, the lights were okay prior, just low batt not turning the bike over. I imagine I killed the battery, what if anything else did I blow? I suppose if I wasn't working these long hours I wouldn't need the overtime money to fix my bike. At least I haven't bunged up the top end rebuild the shop just did, which was one of the reasons I began putting in all the hours... ...sigh...  -Mike | ||
| Tkw |
I think if you trickle charge the new battery it will recover. Try the fully charged battery and see if you still have problems starting the bike. If you don't, check out the charging system. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Okay, here's the update, when hooked up properly to my car it tried to start, low battery type noises. Multimeter says I have 9.8 volts for juice. May have cooked something in the ignition however, not seeing anything on the odometer when the ignition is on... Gonna remove the battery when I leave work in the morning and put on a slow charge diagnostic charger for the day then try it when I come in for work Monday night. | ||
| Oldog |
I dont have wiring diagram IIRC was there an issue with the speed sensor if shorted it caused problems, the reverse polairity may have whacked the odo, discon the speed sensor, check for spark, possible issues odo speed sensor ignition module Voltage regulator the relays should not have been effected | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Thanks, the manual tell me how to check the voltage reg, I think the bike needs to be running for that though... Good point on the speed sensor, I had considered it briefly. Almost 20K miles on it, figures I'd burn up the only good speed sensor to have come out of the factory  As far as the odo, it works in the middle position but not when the ignition is in the run position. The relays clicked when I tried to turn it over earlier so they seem to be doing their thing. Thanks guys | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Battery is charged up and reinstalled, tested with my radio shack multimeter and showed 13.08 after an hour off the charger, so it's trickled down a bit. Turned the ignition on and had the odometer with the key in the run position, I think maybe with the drain on the system from the head/tail tights and extremely low battery the odo just wouldn't display. One of the newer officers here used to be a harly/buell mechanic, he's gonna check out the electrical system with me when he gets off work tomorrow. Would sure like to get one of my vehicles working right, even my bicycle has problems, a thorn in the front tire! I'll have to fix that tomorrow... | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Well I just keep on keeping this thread alive, mechanic looked at the bike with me. The single lead from the voltage regulator has a bullet connector that was corroded and making poor contact. Cut away some of the rubber from the female side and cleaned out both sides of the fitting plus a little mod with the pliers made the fitting actually connect. Just took a break to see if she'd start and she lit right up. Yeehaw!! Running a bit smoother too, or at least it seems to be running smooth for having sat for three days, not quite warmed up... New problem, prob due to my prev jumper cable incident - neutral light is on whenever the clutch is in. Tried putting the bike in neutral and letting off the clutch but the bike dies when I let the clutch out, showing it's no longer in N. Odd. Which sensor to start with, the one in the tranny for N or the clutch switch? Thanks for all help so far! -Mike | ||
| Chasespeed |
Almost 20K miles on it, figures I'd burn up the only good speed sensor to have come out of the factory ) Nah, mine had 44500 when it decided to stop working....  Yeah, I followed all the tests in the manual for the VR, EXCEPT, there is one, you have to hook it to a load bank of sorts... Anyway, my whole electrical system passed the first time I did the tests, except the battery... replaced the battery... took for a ride... and voila...low voltage warning... Ordered VR, replaced.. all probs solved... I HATE ELECTRICAL... Chase |
