| Author | Message | ||
     Hunter1175 |
To start I have a 1999 X1 with a Race ECM, KNN air filter and Vance and Hines Exhaust. No other performance mods. I went for a ride the other day and my check engine light came on. when I got where I was going I went in for about 15 mins. and when I came out the bike would not start. It turned over a coupla times and then started clicking like the battery was dead. After towing it home I used my shop manual and found it was showing the following trouble codes: 16-battery charge low, 23- front fuel injector, and 32 rear fuel injector. I do not think I got into any bad Gas that would have fouled both injectors, (always use premium) and I therefore think it is an electrical problem. No fuses blown and I can't find anything in the shop manual describing how to locate the problem. Any Ideas?? thanks in advance. | ||
| Crux |
I'd start with bypassing the kickstand switch (cut it and connect the 2 leads), and checking all your grounds. Every problem I've had with the bike revolves around the electrical system. Also might not hurt to remove all the fuses and clean them, along with the box, with some WD-40. You may be able to avoid a larger project doing these simple things first, and see if they help you, especially with 25000 miles on the bike. Let me know how you make out. | ||
| Phat_j |
i would first put a charge on that battery, and then start troubleshooting..... find out why the batt is low, is it not charging? bad ground? bad stator? regulator? no offense crux, at this point, i doubt the problem is the sidestand switch. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
listen to phat j , with a low battery other things can fail and pop codes. Esp one that totally discharges. | ||
| Tom_b |
same problem with my friends 99x-1. bought a new battery and solved the problem. start by charging the old one or having it load tested. | ||
| Mbsween |
Hunter, I saw all those codes when my voltage regulator stopped working. The battery wasn't charging and as it got low, it would throw the "holy sh*t all these things lack power code". Get your battery charge up and then test the charging system to make sure all is well. The codes will go away. Matt | ||
| Crux |
J, None taken. I've had all similar problems with mine and it was never the battery...however I guess charging that first would be a good first step. Damn kickstand switch baffled me for months, as soon as I bypassed it, never had a problem again. But you're right, reading his post again, I mighta jumped the gun a little. | ||
| Tunes |
The heart of the electrical system is the battery. A strong battery with good connections is where everything starts from.... then you can start troubleshooting... like everyone has guided you. If you can get the bike started; with your meter on the battery, at idle the battery should read 12.3 to 12.7 volts... throttle up and the voltage should go up. Max is 14.7 volts. The voltage should never drop while the bike idles. If it does, your battery is discharging, ie. it's not charging. As mentioned, voltage regulator, stator, dead battery, bad connection... a host of items. You'll find it. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Make sure you're grounding good! Had a heck of a time with mine a while back and all it was was a bad ground on the battery. The stuff read here on the badweb will definitely help later on. Yesterday I was 30 miles from home and stopped and got gas and my kickstand switch went haywire. I disconnected the safety connection close to the switch and there was a small piece of metal lying on the ground, heaven sent I'm sure. I folded it in half, stuck it in with the pin connectors and rode home trouble free. Well except for the DOT flashing his blues at me to slow down | ||
| Rempss |
Check the chassis ground location under the seat. Many wires terminate at this location, the seat may touch this while riding and break the wiring/connector. Jeff | ||
| Hunter1175 |
Ok guys thanks for the input, here is where I am so far. Cleaned the fuses and fuse block, charged battery back up and made sure terminals were good and snug. using test light checked for Voltage Regulator Bleed and that was OK. Using Ohmeter tested stator resistance and continuity, checked ok, however when doing an AC output check got poor results. Does this mean my stator is bad or could there be another explaination... | ||
| Old_al |
there is a separate test for the voltage regulator/rectifier, and the 2 diodes under the seat that look like fuses, but are one way current. plus a start and run check for the stator when you unplug the volt/rectifier from the stator. If you are getting a code of front and rear injector, the fuel pump pressure should be checked. Never, and I say never use premium gas anymore on a cycle. Premium gas is not used often enough from gas stations, and contains water. Just use regular and do not let it sit for more than a week. I cycle has set for a long time, injectors plug with varnish, and have to be sent out to be cleaned. Unfortunately the code reading system on Buell's is not real precise, so you have to expand your mind on how the components work together. It can make you pull your hair out at times, but this forum is very helpful in that respect. |
