| Author | Message | ||
     Surlypacer |
Some people have changed their fork oil. Can someone if they have time give a procedure, any tips that is not covered in the manual. ie. where should all the setting be when taken the for about, Do i need a fork damper tool to stroke the damper assembly? The manual isnt very detail on what makes a good fork oil change. How to measure the fork oil, weight, I know type E, I want to use full synth in there. Thanks for any tips. | ||
| Surewin |
I'm guessing that when you say the "Manual" isn't very detailed, that you are talking about the owner's manual. The service manual is very clear about the procedure. Check e-bay, but even if you have to pay $40 at the dealer, it's worth it. I'll try to give my two cents here though, and I'm sure others can fill in the gaps. 1.the only settings that you'll need to reset are the preload, compression, and rebound (just as you did when you bought the bike) There is an adjustment procedure for the damper assembly, but that is only if you disassemble the damper too. It can be removed intact, and should only be disassembled if there is damage. 2. I'm not sure if I'm understanding you correctly about the fork damper tool. I assume that you are talking about pumping the old fluid out, and upon reassembly the new oil in. Both of these can be done by hand. 3. I used the depth measuring part of a slide caliper to measure the amount of fork oil, and a straw to remove excess. A tape measure would work too. 4. I'm also a firm believer in synth fluids, but I don't feel its necessary here, as the bushing in the tubes are what actually wear out and contaminate the fluid. You'll need to change oil at the same point regardless of fluid type used. You do need some parts. . . which you could order at the same time as your manual if you chose to go that route. If you are fortunate enough to have a good parts guy at your dealer he'll be able to help you, but off the top of my head you need pairs/sets of: slide bushings, guide bushings, o-rings(three per side), oil seals, dust seals, and a retainer ring or two. I think it came to like $60 in parts. Also, you need to get, or make one tool. Fork tube holder. A 2x6 works. Drill 2" hole through face, 2 small holes through sides (for through bolts to tighten tool around fork tube), and rip 2x6 in half right through the 2" hole. Clamp tool to work bench and use the tool to hold the fork tube while removing fork cap, and then fasten 2 bunge cord hooks (hooks only) to the holder and thread into the two holes in the spring sleeve. Put a floor jack under lower leg and compress. Sorry, this has gotten very wordy and confusing. I'd say order your parts and manual, and then ask for more tips. I could take some pics for you, but not until next weekend. Good Luck | ||
| Rhun |
There was a very good post in here within the last year or so on how to change your fork fluid. I found it and the manual most useful, also no special tools purchases were needed. If nothing is leaking, I personally, wouldn't bother changing them out. If there is no appreciable slop in the sliders again I would leave them alone. I took me about three hours to do my 12R and an hour and one half to do my 9sx (learning curve). this really isn't very challenging. PS: used Maxim's 7.5 weight synth in 12R track bike (traxxions suggestion) and HD type E in the 9SX. (Message edited by rhun on April 04, 2007) |
