Author |
Message |
Surf_boy
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 01:41 pm: |
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Sorry for all the FNG-style questions, but I noticed a lot of rattle in the front on my first real ride. Applying the front brake stopped it, so I just now took a look... The rotor is REALLY loose, yet, due to the style of spacers, tightening does not do it. I notice on my X1 that it's a newer style and is NOT loose at all. Is it that those spacers widen overtime and rattle? Replace?? Add a rubber grommet or something? Thanks all |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 01:46 pm: |
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Surf The old-style disc did develop a rattle after a bit -- there was a kit to cut it down, but it was less than entirely successful in practice -- your best bet is to replace the disc, tho many have ridden with the noisy discs for quite a while, and SOME say they enjoy the racket ;-} no need to apologize for FNG questions -- everyone's an FNG sometime, and many of us owe a HUGE Karmic Debt to this joint . . . |
Surf_boy
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 01:50 pm: |
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lol...Thanks Bomber. I was like...'should I post these stooopid questions'? Going to take a close look at a grommet or something. Since other bikes and cars don't 'float', I can't see a reason to not tighten it up. Suggestions on a rotor??? I saw someone on an S1 that had used the rotor from the new XB Lightning (was it here??) and it WAS KOOL! Rh |
Cereal
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 01:59 pm: |
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Buell doesn't even sell the original rotor from the older S1s. Mine rattled like crazy and I just couldn't take it. I bought the oem replacement from Buell and its been fine. You could also get an EBC or wave rotor from American Sport Bike. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-c atshow/s1brakes.html They look cooler, but are a little pricy. |
Surf_boy
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 02:54 pm: |
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Cereal... Got put on 'ignore' for 15 minutes here at the HD/Buell... What did a new one cost from them? And it seems to be the MOUNTING screw/brackets system, not the rotor?? The rotor is perfect. It's just the way it's held. Would a hard rubber/nylon washer on each side work? R |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 02:57 pm: |
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Surf -- no stupid question, on ly stupid people ;-} hint: you ain't one of them replace the disk -- even with updated hardware, it'll rattle again PDQ -- |
Surf_boy
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 03:17 pm: |
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The problem, upon closer inspection, is that the brake rotor blade is a few MM's thinner than the blade it attaches to, hence, the washers clamp down tight onto the thicker mounting rotor, while the brake rotor rattles. Those 'anti-rattle' clips are obviously not doing it.... I just added a tight rubber grommet to the outside (larger diameter side) that holds the screwhead, and used a smaller one on the inside, which free-floats a bit. Only did one, but it's now quite tight... Time for the acid test. Or, in my case, the 'jack acid test'... If it's good, I'll pull one, get some exact fit grommets, and post a pic. R |
Lake_bueller
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 03:23 pm: |
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I bought the "fix-it" kit when my S3T rotor started to rattle. That lasted about 2 months before the rattle returned. I replaced with the newer style. If you're so enclined to spend the money, the EBC rotor is a great aftermarket part. It doesn't make the bike stop any faster, but it is lighter and looks cooler (IMHO). |
Cereal
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 04:00 pm: |
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Surf, the inner part that connects to the hub is part of the rotor. You replace that too, not just the part where the brake pads make contact. Lake is right, the fix-kit is crap. It will start rattling again in less than a year. Here is a pic of the replacement rotor they started using in 2000 I think:
You can see that three 'spokes' are surrounded by a 'disk' and the rotor is then attached to it with 'buttons.' Take a look at yours and you will see that there is no 'disk,' only the three 'spokes' and the rotor is bolted to it with carriers. This one won't rattle. I've had it for 3 seasons now with no problems. Let me know if my explanation doesn't make sense and I will draw arrows to what I mean by 'spokes' and 'disk.' I think it was $120 and I got it from Daves, who no longer works at Appleton HD, but here is the link to Andy who is taking care of us now. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/17143/67339.html?1175190314 We get 10% off from them and they will mail it right to your door. And Surf, don't worry about asking questions, it's how we all learn. Just make sure to use the search function first. You may find your answers quicker that way. (Message edited by cereal on March 29, 2007) |
Surf_boy
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 04:13 pm: |
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Cereal,thanks for the tips. As of yet, I'd really rather not buy and pull the whole new system. If I had some other issue, or saw something wrong, but it seems just like a bad choice of connections. If BOTH rotors were identical thickness, there would be no problem, but if you look at it edge-wise, you can se the washers slant down onto the brake-disc. ODD choice of sizes... Will look at that link at consider, but THANKS, also, for the tip and the discount knowledge... Going to run out and see if my rubber/nylon gasket fix is a keeper or a loser. Have my (soon to be for sale) 2000 X1, too, for comparison, and can see all the improvements. Can you imagine how killer a 10-year, 2008 'Anniversary Issue S1' would be if they made one??? Thanks to all for feedback.. |
Cereal
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 07:38 pm: |
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The rotor is thinner than the carrier because it is a floating rotor. This allows more even wear. I think the slanty washers you are talking about are actually supposed to work like springs so the disk can float from side to side. The problem with the design is that the springs flatten out with heat over time causing the rotor to rattle. I was going to put new springs in mine, but the bolts were fused on so I couldn't do anything with it. I needed to change the tires anyway, so I just went ahead and replaced the rotor at the same time. If I were you, I'd just deal with the rattling until your next tire change. |
Surf_boy
| Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 07:48 pm: |
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Yea, those are anti-rattle clips, like you see on brake pads, but odd that they only go on one side, even though both sides 'float' or lay the same. The rubber washer solution seem to keep the ability for the rotor to 'play', and since ONLY one was needed, the rotor retains it's alignment, and seems to be fine. I rolled down my alley with the engine off coming home - about 20mph. Listened closely for any rubbing or anything, but not a sound. We'll see...} |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Friday, March 30, 2007 - 01:09 pm: |
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Buell recently over doubled the price of the 2000 spec rotor...it is over $300 now. Al |
Cereal
| Posted on Friday, March 30, 2007 - 03:34 pm: |
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They priced themselves out of the market. That's not such a good sales strategy. |
Rick_a
| Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2007 - 01:21 pm: |
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As long as the rotor doesn't develop too much wear fore and aft it'll be okay but annoying. When the carrier gets enough wear that the rotor rotates a little on the carrier you'll start getting brake chatter every time you make a hard stop. Annoying, but not dangerous. EBC currently makes the best rotor for the money. |
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