| Author | Message | ||
     Zynthaxx |
My XB12X has been sleeping during the winter. As I "put it to bed", I noticed that my bike wouldn't move in gear when I pulled the clutch. It wasn't engaged enough to be noticed when the bike was running (I didn't have to hold the brakes to keep it in place), but the bike can't be moved when in first gear with the engine turned off. I've been postponing the reparation for some time, but as riding season gets closer, I finally got myself to loosen the wire and open the inspection hatch as per instructions here on BadWeb. Uh-oh. The inside of the hatch was filled with yellowish-white goo. "Hmm, it might be nothing to worry about... Mental note: ask on BadWeb". Anyway, I adjust the clutch according to the instructions here (turn counter-clockwise until I can feel the resistance, and then back 1/8 of a rotation). Uh-oh number 2: There was absolutely no difference in the feeling of the clutch. So I open the inspection hatch once more, and find uh-oh number 3: my bike is bleeding transmission fluid (because that's what it is, right?) like crazy (alright, it was more like a speedy trickle...). So, if you had the time to read all the way down here and feel like giving me some hints: 1. Did I do something wrong when trying to adjust the clutch? If so, how should it be done? 2. Should there be white, gooey residue around the clutch internals? 3. What's the reason for transmission fluid to be leaking out from my tranny case? | ||
| Djkaplan |
I think your clutch plates just stuck together from being compressed over the winter. The white gooey stuff is water from condensation emuslified with the oil - replace the oil. Where is the fluid leaking from, the inspection cover? The water is probably raising the oil level enough to cause it to spill out when the inspection cover is removed. Replace that oil, what ever you do. | ||
| Zynthaxx |
Thanks a lot for the answer. The sticky clutch plates theory might be right, but I'll have to wait until I can replace the fluid before I try to start the engine to see if it is. I don't really buy the water thing, though. The bike has been standing indoors in a building that's been kept above freezing temperature at all times, so I don't really see how that amount of condensation water could collect. True, the bike was leaning on to it's side stand when I opened it, so that could cause excessive oil to overflow out of the hatch, but wouldn't that mean it was seriously over-filled, since what spilled out on the floor must have been about 1 dl (1/10 of a quart) of oil, and it was still flowing when I replaced the spring/locknut and the hatch? I didn't look too closely, but is there an inspection window or something like that for the tranny fluid level? (Message edited by zynthaxx on March 26, 2007) | ||
| Jlnance |
The goo is what happens when water gets into the transmission oil. It happens, I've seen it in both of my bikes. I'm not exactly sure how it gets in there, but it does. If you take off the cover with the bike on the side stand, oil will run out. My recollection is that the proper level is just even with the bottom of the cover when the bike is level. Since the sidestand leans it over a bit, oil runs out. I can't push my bikes in gear (easily) with the clutch pulled in either. I think it's normal. | ||
| Jlnance |
Forgot one thing.  There are three adjustments which affect the clutch. There is the ball ramp, which is the screw behind the cover. Sounds like you already did that. There is also the clutch cable which is ajdusted by a turnbuckle in the cable. Sounds like you've already done this as well since you mention loosening the wire. Finally there is the primary chain tension. There are instructions somewhere on here for adjusting that as well. | ||
| Zynthaxx |
You guys rock! Thanks for your input! That sounds great. Seems like I'll have to get a bike lift and a service manual before opening hatches all over my bike the next time... But hey, it's good to know the fool working on your bike, right?  Thanks for your help; I really appreciate the feedback! | ||
| Reepicheep |
No need for the bike lift, a 2 foot section of rebar and two cheap jack stands (not even jacks) will work perfectly for everything but rear wheel removal. Just slap the rebar through the hollow rear axle and support it on either side with the jack stands. | ||
| Zynthaxx |
Thanks, I'll try that. | ||
| Firemanjim |
You are incorrect about fluid level--it should be to bottom of clutch basket with bike level. More will cause puking out vent hose when hot.It works out to about 3/4 quart. | ||
| Zynthaxx |
FYI: I finally got my service manual. It essentially says clutch fluid should be level with the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring with the bike vertical. |
