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Dwardo
| Posted on Monday, March 26, 2007 - 10:33 pm: |
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I've been riding my 2002 M2 quite a bit in the last couple of days. I understand that the shifting is supposed to be a bit agricultural but when I'm "hurrying" I find a big false neutral between 3rd and 4th. It seems like the shifter has to move a long way to get a positive shift. What seems weird to me is that the shifter seems to move up relatively with every gear so it's not starting in the same position for every gear -- not like any bike I've worked on before where it is more of a true ratcheting mechanism. This makes it hard to adjust the pedal so that I like it in every gear. I just had the bike serviced and inspected by the local dealer and the shop guys seem to be Buell enthusiasts so I assume they knew what they were talking about when they said the bike is in good shape. I did have them put Mobil-1 gear oil in because that's what I use in the Norton and I was too ignorant at the time to know that the primary shares the same oil. Could it be oil drag on the clutch? I find the clutch to be very good although a little heavy. I can find neutral (the real one) easily and it goes into first fine so I don't really think so. Opinions? The bike has about 8600 miles on it. |
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Chasespeed
| Posted on Monday, March 26, 2007 - 10:45 pm: |
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I still hit the 3rd 4th flase every now and then(when I get to ride it anyway)... Though, I have noticed.. the frequency seems to depend on; How hard/fast shifting.... running up through the gears pretty fast, and needing to put more force at each upshift, not enough force... nuetral... How much oil in the tranny and primary... too much actually makes shifting a pain... What kind of oil, and up to temp... If its pretty cool, AND you have a heavy oil, you will have a difficult time shifting... etc... SO... 28 oz of your manuals recommended tranny/primary oil... and that should help things... Chase |
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Captainkirk
| Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2007 - 12:02 am: |
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If this condition continues to exist or get worse, it could be an indicator of a classic case of loose shift drum pins. This happened to me and others here on the forum, so it's not uncommon. Good news is, it's easily fixable. If it's an oil issue it will improve, so keep an eye on it. |
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Ebutch
| Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2007 - 08:28 am: |
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All of above + my trans really didn,t shift easily till about 15,000 miles.Butch |
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Djkaplan
| Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2007 - 02:29 pm: |
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Opinions? It does sound like the shift drum pins are backing out and maybe cocking the detent plate, but you'll never know unless you look. One of the great things about tuber and pre-03 Sportster transmissions are their incredible serviceability and easy access. |
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Jackbequick
| Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2007 - 06:29 pm: |
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Beyond any mechanical issues, throttle blipping is an essential component of smooth downshifting on Buells. It makes all the difference in the world. On upshifts, particularly if you are accelerating and shifting quickly, don't pull the clutch lever in hard against the grip. Just fan it for about half of full travel and release it. As you do that, back off the throttle just a little to unload the transmission dogs, and give the lever a brisk full stroke. If none of that helps any, you may have a mechanical problem too. Jack |
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Bad_karma
| Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2007 - 11:51 pm: |
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Primary chain properly tensioned? Joe |
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Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 - 10:18 am: |
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Proper fluid level makes a huge difference. I'm not familiar with the M1 Synthetic in bikes...but when I switched my S1W over to Syn3 (Harley synthetic) the shifting got a ton easier and smoother. |
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Bad_karma
| Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 - 11:35 pm: |
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I wonder what the effect the SYN3 may have on the stator? With the additives that engine oil has it would be nice to know the history of HD testing. Joe |
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