| Author | Message | ||
     Captainkirk |
I searched the KV but couldn't find the info I was looking for; is there a factory repack kit including packing and rivets? My baffle tube has come loose and and needs repair; at the same time I'd like to repack it. I'd appreciate any info on this. | ||
| Justin_case |
It's just yellow fiberglass insulation and pop rivets. Any hardware store should hook you up.Don't forget the masking tape to hold it all together while you slide it in the can. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I've repacked a lot of mufflers with fiberglass in the past, but I prefer the stuff that Al at American Sport Bike sells now. It's not itchy fiberglass (I don't know what it is) and it's easier to work with. The kit comes with stainless pop-rivets. I repacked my V&H last year and it seems to be holding up well. I don't think it'll deteriorate as fast as fiberglass, but I really won't know until the next repack. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Here's a pic of the repack kit...  If you go this route, don't let the bag tear ... if the you do, the stuff inside swells to size of a garbage can. It's almost comical... almost. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The difference between the two types of glass is the muffler is called "long strand". If memory serves, the fibers are also thicker. It takes the power pulses better than normal spun fiberglass. The pink stuff turns to power way too quickly. I did my S2 V&H with the packing kit from American Sport Bike. It lasted over 2 years. About 18K miles or so. I'd use it again in a heartbeat. Brad | ||
| Bomber |
Brad -- ya gots another PM, bud! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
John, I replied to you originally on the 9th, not sure what happened. I have re-replied. Brad | ||
| Bomber |
Brad -- strange -- nuthing in there now, or then s p o k e s 1 0 at a o l | ||
| Bluzm2 |
John, I sent it again on Friday and again on Sat. Nothing? Maybe I better try sending it from work. Brad | ||
| Steve_mackay |
And under no circumstances should you put off repacking your muffler. Mine wasn't done for over 20K miles. Opened her up, and the baffle was broke in two pieces. Irreplaceable baffle as well. So I just made my own out of much thicker walled aluminum tubing, With a bazzilion(yes, that's a scientific number) holes milled in it on the CNC machine. Damn that WOULD HAVE SUCKED to do it the old fashioned crank and turn way  | ||
| Sloppy |
The factory rivets are Stainless Steel, which means that you need to get hardened drill bits, e.g., cobalt, and I'd also recommend a drill press. You can replace with aluminum the next time around and these you can either punch out or drill out very simply the next time around. I would recommend that you NOT get the factory repack kit. You can use basically ANY repacking kit from your local dirt bike shop. FMF has a nice 4-stroke packing that does a great job. Roll the packing like a sleeping bag around the core. Secure with masking tape. Then jiggle a bit to refit the end cap -- before you repack, fit the core to the muffler to see how it fits. | ||
| Dave |
I recommend the ceramic packing from American Sport Bike. And ... instead of using steel rivets use aluminum. DAve | ||
| Packrat |
Newbie here..just signed up yesterday... just bought '07 XB12Scg (cherry bomb) I have the race ECM and K&N filter ordered already (go figure!!)..I've read through a LOT of back posts here, but did not find an answer...since the Race pipe is no longer available, which one of the others is the quietest??? Willing to lose a little power in the interest of quietness At 58 yrs.old, I prefer quiet.  | ||
| Gotj |
Hi Packrat, Welcome. Here's one more vote for quiet. I have looked at all of the dyno comparisons I could find and, to me, the power increases due to the muffler change alone were too small to be worth the dBs. Staying with the stock muffler would "lose a little power" from the ultimate potential of your race ECM and K&N but you would have your quiet. One option I have yet to inquire about is some means to easily get a quieter mode with an aftermarket pipe. The sort of thing SuperTrapp offered. Then you could hot rod with all the available power when you wanted and get quiet when you wanted. It would seem realtively easy to do but there's only a VERY small market for that option. Many folks go for louder without ANY power increase necessary. | ||
| Packrat |
From what I've read, it appears that with the buell race ecm and the KN filter...leaving the stock muffler on would be defeating the purpose..so....I have called Kevin Drummer and paid for one of his muffler re-builds..muffler is on it's way to him even as we speak..Guess if it is too loud I can always sell it..Jardine offers a"quiet kit" for their slip on, but stated that there is noticeable loss of power with it....I WANT more power (yeah baby) so will see how the Drummer sounds,...it may go up for sale in a hurry, just have to wait and see  | ||
| Captainkirk |
So if I have to drill out the rivets to access my loose baffle tube, which end of the muffler do I want to remove; front or rear? (or both) | ||
| Dave |
I found I could just remove the outlet. DAve | ||
| Sloppy |
You can do either side, but I found the discharge to be easier as you have the curve on the outlet to provide different anlges of leverage. Don't forget -- if you have the original stainless rivets you NEED to get the hardened drill bits, e.g., cobalt, in order to drill them out. And replace those rivets with aluminum ones. | ||
| Captainkirk |
The aluminum rivets don't shear over time due to softer material? | ||
| Sloppy |
Nope, never had a problem. They'll last long past the time to have to repack your muffler again. I thought about using sheet metal screws instead of rivets like on dirt bikes, but with the muffler being so close to the rear tire, I didn't want to chance it. | ||
| Dave |
Roger that - the aluminum rivets are fine even with the ceramic packing. Better to have the aluminum rivets shear anyhow than wallow out the holes with harder rivets. DAve |
