| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
It is mine or perhaps I should say was mine. I've just about stopped using it now for about 20 years. When I speak to my parents I find myself hunting for words. | ||
| Tripper |
Jose, I'm in for a set, as long as they are not that golfing Torx heads. Hate those things. | ||
| Road_Thing |
Jose; Just a guess, but did your family come from Cuba? r_t | ||
| Jmartz |
Road-Thing: My family came from northern Spain to the eastern Carribean, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. Tripper: I would guess you are interested in the fork pinch bolts as you '98 does not have those grotesque and overweight 1/2-13 x 1.5 bolts holding the risers. Your risers are integeral to the upper tree. The catalogue from said company should arrive shortly and I will post exact prices and sizes. I still need to remove a fork pinch bolt for actual size but I'm guessing thay are 3/8-16 x 1.25 or there abouts. Jose | ||
| Rick_A |
I consider the passenger peg brackets on an S1 a sick joke. The first time someone sat on the back my tailsection got a crack. Here's my fix:   | ||
| Road_Thing |
Rick: Sharp! Tell me more-how'd you cut the bastards off, fill the holes and re-paint? r_t | ||
| Road_Thing |
JMartz: Que pasa con los tornillos? r_t | ||
| Jmartz |
Road_Thing: You must have missed my post. Turned out that they were grade 2 unsuitable for out application. No wonder they were so cheap. I have another siyrce I'm working on I'l let you know as soon as they reply. El invierno ha llegado a Georgia. Hace frio en Tejas? Jose | ||
| Road_Thing |
Jose: Lo siento, estaba dormido! Si, el verano es terminado en Houston--es muy fresca esta manana. r_t | ||
| Rick_A |
Road Thing: I used a cutting wheel, sawzall, hacksaw, grinder, file, and a few grades of sandpaper, in that order. There were no holes to fill as the cut-off points are a solid part of that lower forging. It's a lot of steel to cut through but I think the results are worth it. I found a Duplicolor spray paint that nearly matched the frame...and well, it'll do 'till I get the frame repainted professionally. | ||
| Ara |
Having a possible problem with steering head. I did two things at once, which is very unscientific, and now am having difficulty diagnosing some symptoms. I cleaned and regeased the steering heag bearings and changed the fork oil. Now when I rock the bike with the front brake applied, I get a muffled clunk. Can't tell for certain whether it's a fork leg or loose steering head bearings, though my sense is that it's a fork leg. I'm trying to be sure. I set the pull tension of the steering head at the factory setting of 7.5 to 9.6 lbs of pull, but back in July Tripper mentioned that 5 lbs of pull was sufficient. Zat true? Russ | ||
| Ara |
There's more in-depth discussion of this under Suspension. Thanks! Russ | ||
| Se7enth_Sign |
I have a 2001 X1 with 5200 miles on it. It's had it's engine replaced with a 2002 engine at 3200. Ever since then it has had a head shake. it happens at around 115 so the dealership isn't being much help. I've had the suspension checked and re checked, new front tire, hyper pro steering damper, tire balance checked... to no avail. Is it possible the problem is the wind? Would a fairing (euro fairing) fix this? It's driving me crazy. Thanx. | ||
| Ccryder |
Shadow: Did it have a head shake before the engine replacement? If the answer is no then there is an aligment issue of the engine to frame and since the engine (cases) are the mount for the rear wheel that could create a problem. Also too tight of neck bearings could create this movement. My 00' X-3 is arrow stable and straight all the way up to..... well lets just say in excess of the speed you are talking about without any steering dampner. My suggestion is to watch how you hold onto the bars. With the speed and wind pressure you have a tendancy to grip too much and your body movement is inputted into the front end (been there done that). Even with the S3 fairing on my X-1, I have to be aware of limiting my inputs into the handlebar at "speed". At 18,000 miles in 14 months, Stripe'r has been rock stable even with a very worn front tire, that reminds me what's MAW's number? As far as fairings, frame mounted is the way to go! If you get any bigger on the front forks, it will contribute to an unstable condition, depending on wind and attitude. Just my $0.02 and I'm stick'n 2 it. Ride more, Lean more, Grin more. Neil S. | ||
| Se7enth_Sign |
I did have a shaking problem after I had my tire replaced due to a blow out a week after I got it but I wasn't taking it up to any real speed. I believe that was caused by me being too stiff. Before the original engine grenaded I took it as fast as it would go with no problems. I've taken the bike back to the dealership that replaced the engine 3 times so far resulting in the replacement of a broken engine mount, front tires and balancing checks. The fairing I would get is indeed frame mounted. If the problem is coming from the wind hitting the bug sheild then I hope this would fix it. I'm just really fed up and ready to pitch the whole bike (for a refund or Firebolt of course) The dealer isn't really being much help. | ||
| Blake |
Find another dealer, and call Buell customer service. Don't put up with BS. They need to align your wheels and get rid of your shake. Simple. | ||
| Se7enth_Sign |
I may run into the owner of the dealership I've been getting my work don this evening. Maybe I can get some ideas who I should talk to... I could try to sell this one and go with something else but if I can get it working like it should, I'm sure I'll be happy with it. | ||
| Buelliedan |
You already stated that you have had one broken engine mount. This leads me to believe that the engine was installed improperly and out of alignment. These bikes do not break engine mounts for no reason. Check all your turnbuckles. I believe you have five of them and make sure they are all tight. Does your bike vibrate above 3,000 rpms while in neutral? It shouldn't. If it does you have a mounting problem. Good Luck. | ||
| Henrik |
Steering head bearings: I've searched the archives for a supplier and part #'s - no luck. Can anyone help. Installation: has anyone tried removing and installing bearings (steering head and wheel) without special tools. I figure I can get the bearings out with a long punch and maybe press the new bearings in using threaded rod, some washers and nuts and the old bearings. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks Henrik | ||
| V2win |
Henrik..... I used Timken. Bearing #L44643 and race #L44610. You will need 2 of each. The races were a little hard to remove. Be careful but firm. | ||
| Henrik |
V2win: thanks for the info. I'll try to find a mail-order place to get them. Henrik | ||
| Steveb |
Henrik, I used a punch to remove mine a year ago, but since, I have learned that the neck can be stretched if the bearing is knocked out of plumb with the neck, as it likely would using a punch. A proper puller allows the bearing to be removed on plumb with no damage. Next time, I'll remove mine with a punch again, however, as I go tappity - tappity around the bearing instead of banging it out like a caveman. YMMV SteveB | ||
| Jst |
Anyone got any advise for removing the steering races? I'm getting ready to have a frame powder coated (after I do Rick A's mods) and need to replace them anyway. While I'm on that subject, Anyone know of a shop in the South East preferrably Florida that they trust to do sandblasting and powder coating? | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Jst, Here's a little tip... There's enough of a lip where the bearing races bottom against the stops to try to knock them out with a big screwdriver and a hammer. I tried, all I succeeded in doing was buggering my screwdriver end. I had a long 1" diameter stainless rod that I used. That catches that lip much better than a flat screwdriver blade, knocked the suckers right out easily by moving it around and using lots of little hits, a la Steveb's comments above. A bearing race install kit from Pep boys (several aluminum tapered "anvils" with a beater shaft) installed the new ones cleanly, was only 25 bucks or so. Easy with the right tools, sucks without. Al | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Jeff, have'nt seen you around, still working long hours ? Try Powder Tech in Orlando They are on Old Winter Garden road just west of the Orl HD/Buell 407 295 4555 ask for Don. Great work. Very reasonable. They've done great work for me. I've also seen other bike frames being done, they have pictures too. A small shop good guys. | ||
| Jst |
Donn, Thanks for the heads up. I'm gonna have EM's frame sandblasted and powdercoated, I'm even thinking about going a different color route. Maybe yellow with all black body work, Swing arm and fork lowers. I may even have the rocker cover center sections done yellow as well (Like the original Ghey Ghost Fatboys). I'm still over worked and under loved. Between Em, A second Buell project and a Pre runner truck project I don't have time to ride. | ||
| Jst |
Al, Steve. Thanks for the tricks. I'll be heading to Pep boys next week. I've got 9 whole days off with nothing to do 'cept wrench Buells and trucks. Damn, I almost forgot, I guess there is a holiday that gets in the way of my fun. I'll post pics when Em Too Bee is done. JT | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
To Anybody, What size are the pinch bolts/screws on the front of the fork, the single bolt/screw on the back of the triple tree and the fork stem bolt? I need to tighten the neck bearing bolt. Thanks for the help. v/r Tony p.s. Is there any part of this board that tells which bolts are metric or english and what their sizes are? | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Tony, do you have a service manual and a parts book for your bike ? in either one, I think the parts manual, it list the parts and bolt sizes. Money well spent. If you say what year/model Buell you have someone here with the same and books probably will post the info for you. Jeff, I like the color combos ! Powdertech has pictures of a yellow frame and hard parts softtail that the did. Awesome. I'm in town over the holiday and the family is all gone to VA to see the inlaws. Nothing to do but ride ride ride. Ping me off line please. | ||
| Rempss |
Most bolt sizes are not in the book, on a 1999 X1 the large bolts are 7/16" x 1 3/4", the small one is 5/16" x 1". The large ones are stainless from the factory which is not very strong, but the small one is Grade 8 steel. I now know ALL of the bolt sizes - replacing every bolt with stainless after a week parked under a well-water fed sprinkler - they all corrode - ugly. Keep in mind standard stainless is between Grade 2 & 3 strength if this is even the direction your question is going. Jeff |
