| Author | Message | ||
     Hootowl |
I'm not saying it doesn't. What I am saying is that since I put the "cure" in my rocker boxes, I have had no puking problems, and those of you who are having puking problems may want to install it. Also, there's a school of thought that says vacuum on the crankcase helps seal the rings. More power, less oil loss. Either way, I don't have oil going into my airbox anymore because the cure stopped it. A catch can at this point would be a waste of money. | ||
| Rickway |
I'm getting some leakage from the rear cylinder's head gasket. Is there a aftermarket head gasket that would be an improvement over stock? | ||
| Buelliedan |
Rickway, James makes the gaskets that you want!! Ask your dealer for the james steel rocker box gaskets and you will be very happy. Others might recommend Cometics but I was not very happy with their quality and Aaron will vouch for that. Dan http://www.lube-direct.com/ddunn | ||
| Sarodude |
OK - I've got a 'check it only when hot' related question... How much of that instruction is about temperatures (be it oil, crankcase, or cranky ass) and how much is about checking it QUICKLY after running the bike? Does oil leave the tank slowly? How much? Let's say my bike is warm but I park it for 10 minutes. If I check the oil, then start it, run it, kill it, and check the oil again, what will I see? -Saro | ||
| Buelliedan |
I just wanted to say Thank You to the people who have purchased from my Amsoil web site. If there is anything I can do or questions I can answer please e-mail me. Dan http://www.lube-direct.com/ddunn | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
I'm SURE this question has been answered before, but with all the good information on here I get sidetracked looking for it, and I never actually find what I'm looking for. I have solved my puking out of the rocker boxes problem with the Screamin Eagle crossover and Chuck's fine idea with the 2 stroke oil bottle for a catch can, (Thanks Chuck!) and I thought all was well. Yesterday, when I parked my bike, I noticed oil all over the rear of the bike. This, much to my dismay, included the rear tire. (This might explain the "backing it in" feeling I had a couple of times while I was riding. Damn! I thought I was the next Nicky Hayden) This oil seems to be coming from the tube running along the tail section, which seems to be coming from the transmission. I've never had oil coming from here like this before. I actually rode easier than normal this time, except for the last several miles which was done at a steady 80 or so. Do I need to add another catch can for this tube? Is this normal? Should I take it out back and shoot it? Anybody's 2 cents will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris | ||
| Blake |
That's normally the crankcase breather line. But it sounds like you've done away with that and installed a catch can. Still, make sure the engine oil is not overfilled? You know, only check it just after shutting down a thoroughly warm engine. If it isn't engine oil, it must be the tranny breather line. It would be prudent to check the tranny lube level. If it is too high, you may have overfilled, or worse, you may have a blown seal at the crank allowing engine oil to invade the primary/tranny. If not, you may have accumulated some moisture in the tranny/primary. If the temperature rises to above boiling, the instantaneous pressure surge from the escaping steam might take a significant amount of oil out the breather with it. Good luck, Blake | ||
| Sparky |
Chris, That tube is the trans vent. I've had oil puking out of it on both my bikes usually after the dealer services the trans and then only after extended periods of 80+ mph riding. This happened once on each bike. Both times I checked the oil level and it was slightly higher than the bottom the clutch spring to where it wets the side of the spring with the bike vertical. So I drained out enough oil to bring the level to the bottom of the spring. It was approx 6 ounces in each case. I haven't had the puking problem since. However I'm experimenting with a simple catch can setup for the trans vent made out of a clear 35 mm film container on the end of the hose. Weather permitting I'm gonna road test it this weekend to see if it works. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Thanks Blake and Sparky. I haven't added any oil to the transmission, so I'm assuming it is either related to Blake's theory of moisture accumulation, or the last 20 miles of my ride being done at 80+. I met a guy at VIR in September with a VERY sweet M2 who had installed a catch can on his rear frame tubes and I think now I know why. Sparky, I'm thinking maybe running the tube up one frame tube, across the back, and down the other side a few inches to install the catch can. (So it's pointing down) Also, are you venting your catch can? Court, Has Erik ever considered the possiblity of product liability with motorcycles that puke oil all over the rear tire? | ||
| Sparky |
My S1 had the vent tube going up the left rear frame rail ending by the rearmost oil tank fitting (near the top). The stock S3 vent tube however goes around the battery: under, up the left side, over & down the right side exiting by the rear brake light switch. Here is where I put about a 3" extension hose that ends in the catch can. The can is zip tied to the brake switch. The hose fits loose enough through the can lid to vent freely. I'm not really keen on this setup because debris and water can fall into the catch can if not shielded. A better arrangement would be to tee the vent hose with a downward hose going to a sealed catch can and an upper hose going to a small K&N breather filter. This method has been described recently on this board for the engine breather hoses. So, I'm thinking, that's possibly the ideal setup. Why not apply it to the trans vent too? When I find the right type of (metal tubing) wye or tee hose fittings, I'll rework the breathers. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Okay. I went for another ride today and the following picture is the result. I think I'm going to use my warranty for this one. Anybody think this is a bit much oil all over the bike?  | ||
| Rocketman |
Didn't you say something about your dealer not filling it with enough oil ? Looks to me like that's puked from the oil bag cap. Check your level carefully, once you've warmed the motor up to temperature, then switch off and take a reading, because that pic suggests it's too full. Rocket in England | ||
| Ccryder |
Chris: $'s will get you donuts it's the tranny breather, or like Rocket said "Looks to me like that's puked from the oil bag cap." . How many miles on your bike? When was your last service? Who did your service? Where is your engine oil level? Where is your tranny oil level? How hard were you riding? Give us a few answers and we can lead you in the right direction. Neil S. | ||
| Sparky |
Yuck! My bike looked like that too. It's time to rig up some kind of catch can until you can get this thing sorted out. We don't want you to have an accident since this can be prevented so easily. But first you need to know the facts. Is it engine oil from the oil bag and/or its fittings or is it trans oil from the vent tube? If you are certain that the oil is coming from the trans vent hose it is imperative to check for the proper level in the primary. Take the derby cover off and with the bike vertical see where the oil level is. It needs to be no higher than the bottom of the clutch spring. If it is up on the side of the spring, take some out until the level is only at the bottom. Note: if you are running a lot of preload on the shock, the rear of the bike may be higher than normal causing a tendency to slightly overfill the trans if using the bottom of the clutch spring as an indicator. Keep that in mind if this applies and adjust accordingly. Keep us posted, Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Jmartz |
My 3rd oil tank is now officially leaking. Too bad as I had installed a Banke cap on it when I 1st got it about a year ago. Next is the brass fitting M2/S3 type of current vintage. A note on the Banke filler cap, it gets trashed by the seat metal tongue as one puts the seat in. This item needs a different finish other than brightly polished. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Thanks for the replys, Guys. I was poised to just load the bike up on the trailer and drop it off at the dealer tomorrow as it is still under warranty, but after reading your posts, I decided to check it out a little further before I load it up. I'll still be taking it to the dealer tomorrow, but now I'm determined to figure it out first. I was certain it was coming from my tranny vent hose, and it may very well be, but I just went out and checked my oil level, (Engine cold) and the oil bag is WAY down, like not on the dipstick at all. Tranny oil is just about right, maybe a tick on the high side. There must be AT LEAST a quart of oil all over my bike. The picture doesn't reaaly do it justice. There is oil EVERYWHERE. However, there is no oil on the front of the oil tank, no oil coming from any of the fittings or the cap, no oil around the engine, no oil around the catch can and it's filter, and only a cap full of oil INSIDE the catch can. The bike has 3750 miles on it, has been serviced by myself, except for the 500 mile service, and my ride yesterday was a spirited mountain ride with top speeds in the 90-100 MPH range, with lots of turns thrown in to slow things down. If the bike wasn't under warranty, I would clean the oil off of it and run it some more to try to find the leak, but I want to leave the oil on there for the dealer. One other question for you guys. I'm thinking of demanding that my dealer replace my brake pads and my drive belt when they fix the problem, as these things have been drenched in oil. Does this sound reasonable? Thanks for the help. Chris | ||
| Jmartz |
Bigfano: Seems like you need a new sprocketshaft seal. Jose | ||
| Ccryder |
Chris: Jose sounds correct about the crank seal. You really can't tell your engine oil level unless the engines hot. But I'll bet it is low. Also in the 2 Buells I have had with crankshaft seal problems, the tranny level seems to level it self out, just about right, by puking over the fender. As far as brake pads and belt, the pads you will need to supply and the belt will be ok. Hopefully the Dealer has the new double lip seal and has read the SB about replacing the nut on the crank if it is the wrong one as depicted in the SB. My 00' X-1 had a gap between the nut and the crankshaft gear/ rotor so it really leaked. It was torqued to spec. but not torqued down. While they are in the primary, have them replace the tensioner shoe even if you have to pay for the parts. The tensioner shoe is under $20. Time4 sleep. Neil S. | ||
| Blake |
Shouldn't a 2001 M2 have the new seal and new shoe? | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Thanks again for the replies. I dropped the bike off at Tilly's a little while ago, and they discovered something I missed. The oil all over the bike, and the oil still in the tank had a faint gasoline smell to it. Sound familiar? I checked out the sprocketshaft area, and although I'm not ruling it out as a possibility, I don't think there is enough oil in that area. Most of it is between the inner fender and the bottom of the seat. I'll keep everybody posted as to what they find. Thanks, Chris Oh, by the way, they said they would probably replace the brake pads, but the belt would be okay. (Just in case this happens to any of the rest of us) | ||
| S320002 |
Big, Looks like my '97 S3 did off and on for more than a year. It took me that long and six different dealers to finaly to convince them to change the seal between the crank case and the primary case. Problem solved. Finaly! Greg Tonn | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Greg, You actually rode like that for a YEAR? I had oil EVERYWHERE! Including the rear tire, the rear brakes, and all over my leathers. You're a better man than I am if you gave six different dealers the opportunity to fix the problem. Chris Ridinthewifessportycuzthebuellssick | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Okay, I just talked to Tilly's about my oil problem and they tell me that my oil line going to my catch can was kinked and caused the oil pressure to build up inside the engine and blow out apparently through any seal it could find. If this really was the cause of the problem, and not just a way to avoid paying a warranty claim, anybody with an other than stock oil puke tube should check it's routing. When I pick the bike up, I'll ride it and post the results. I left the bike at Tilly's and had them order the parts for the shifting problem on early 2001 M2's/S3's. Hopefully this will fix my sore foot problem! | ||
| Buelliedan |
glad to hear that you figured out the problem. Now if you need the best oil for your Buell give my web site a looksee. http://www.lube-direct.com/ddunn | ||
| Blake |
Careful there Dan. "Best" is a tough word to defend. "Really good" might better serve a reputation for honor and integrity. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Blake, I have yet to see an oil that rates better!! In every comparison Amsoil is always the top rated oil for V-twins. | ||
| Blake |
Which comparisons would those be? | ||
| Buelliedan |
Laboratory tests showing 4 ball wear test and viscosity tests. I already showed you those didn't I? | ||
| Bomber |
new rule in my house . . . .old rule was: no discussion religion or politics new rule is: no discussing religion, politics or oil is this the start of another jihad? | ||
| S2no1 |
Bomber, It just engineer talk. We are taught, virtually from birth in College, not to use terms that express exactness or are not defensible in a civil court of law. Amazing ain't it, even exact sciences can't be exact cause of lawyers. Arvel Engineers aren't trained, their born and the birth pain is evident in the college classes they take. |
