G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Author Message   Reepicheep Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 09:35 am:        Good idea Nemo, a banjo bolt would be even nicer. I think the factory bolt has a magnet on the end to capture stray ferrous materials. If you cut it off you will loose that... Maybe you could cut a channel or drill a diagonal hole... but you might want to make sure you have a backup part before going down that road. I have always been able to get mine off (factory exhaust) with lots of fumbling and muttering, but it would be nice to have an easier way. If you have not replaced your primary chain tensioner with the updated part yet, you need to do that anyway. Just put aluminum foil around the exhaust, fold it to make a channel to your drain pan, and remove the whole primary cover. Drains quickly You need never touch the drain bolt or remove the exhaust.   Blake Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 12:31 pm:        Yeah! A Banjo bolt... Why not run a line like the oil tank has. I can't figure why the heck the factory hasn't already done something like that. ASB? Sport Twin? You listening? A banjo bolt, a tube, a 1/8" cable attached to a plug on one end and a small magnet on the other. Cable being just long enough to allow the magnet to enter tranny. Does that sound workable?   Nemo Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2001 - 03:31 pm:        So instead of fighting with the primary drain I decided it was time to replace the chain tension block. Can this be done with normal tools? I will need the gasket, right? How about synthetic primary fluid? The backfire problem was fixed under warranty at the HD in Allen, Tx for FREE. They changed the intake seals and added the needle shim. Did I mention it was FREE. Thanks for the help.   Reepicheep Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2001 - 04:15 pm:        Normal tools... including a torque wrench, and yes you will need the gasket, and some gasket remover would probably be welcome as well, along with a clean sharp scraper (new razor blade perhaps). Also, if you have some small dowel rod or pencils, break them into 2.5" sections and sharpen one end of each. When the cover is off, you can thread these into the primary cover bolt holes in the case, and then hang the gasket on them. The primary cover will then slide right over the wooden dowels without letting the gasket wander. You can thread out the dowel one at a time as you replace them with bolts. Be carefull with the torque, a couple people here lately have stripped some threads. Somebody else mentioned using axle grease to hold the gasket in place, and it would likely work, but I prefer to keep my gasket mating surfaces as clean as possible before attachment. I have no experience with it though, I bet either approach works fine. And judging by the smell, the Harley sport-trans fluid is already full synthetic. I have never seen a published viscosity for this stuff, so I would be hesitent to switch when I don't know for sure what to switch too. Bill   Al_Lighton Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2001 - 06:57 pm:        Nemo, In addition to the main gasket, you'll want to get a new seal for the shifter shaft. It's a good idea to get a new O-ring for the primary inspection cover and the derby cover, but I have successfully reused those in the past without any leaks. For some reason, the derby cover "o-ring" seems to grow in diameter a tiny bit once used, and it can be bear to get to stay in it's slot while putting on the derby cover. A new one seems to stay put a lot better. I had been running Redline Heavy Shockproof, but after seeing it all congealed inside my primary drive and transmission on my recent disassembly, I don't think I'll be using it again. I put valvoline synthetic gear oil, 75-90W I think, in the primary, I'd heard it's just fine for this app. Seems to work OK, but Bill's right, I haven't seen any official word from Harley/Buell on the composition/viscosity of Sport-trans, it might be bad tiki. The valvoline smells marginally better than Sport-trans . Here's a question for the masses on the primary assy: The gasket appears to be much wider than it needs to be. Normally, I would think it wouldn't hurt anything. But it seems that the wide gasket becomes a dam at the cover/case interface. Since the drain hole is in the main case, any tranny fluid on the primary cover side can't make it to the drain hole unless you do a full disassembly. Has anyone bothered to reduce the width of the gasket, or at least put a few notches in it, to facilitate more complete drainage of the old fluid? Al   Richieg150 Posted on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 06:24 pm:        I have a M2 2000,i have rejetted the carb,put on a V&H slip-on,put on a WESTEC air breather,and installed lightning cams.My bike pulls strong all the way in 5th to red line.I was talking to somebody about a six speed trany,and was told if I changed my front sprocket 1-2 larger,it would give me about 10 more mph.top end.#1,is this true,#2 do they make a front sprocket larger to replace my stock one,#3 how would it affect the midrange on my bike,#4 will my bike have enough to pull it to red line with the bigger sprocket?Thanks for any help or advice!!   Aaron Posted on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 06:32 pm:        1) if you have enough power to pull it, expect an increase that's proportional to the number of teeth you add 2) yes - 29T is readily available from Buell, 30T is available aftermarket 3) you will lose rear wheel torque in all gears. Rear wheel hp will remain about the same 4) perhaps   Richieg150 Posted on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 08:14 pm:        AAron,Im not sure I quite understand the 1st. answer, could you explain it to me in greater detail?An increase porportional to the teeth I add???Can you explain it in mph?As I understand it,with the stock teeth,the top mph to red line is about 135-138??   Aaron Posted on Monday, October 22, 2001 - 11:33 pm:        Richie: this was covered in the most OBVIOUS of places, the Croix thread in the storm fronts section (obvious sarcasm there). Let me re-post what I said there, in response to a fella with Euro gearing (29/55) ... just recalculate the speeds below at your target rpm, which I suggest to be your hp peak (prolly around 6500) ... Torque at the rear wheel is just: torque at the engine (i.e. what a Dynojet shows) x primary ratio (1.6) x the transmission ratio (depends on the gear you're in) x the final drive ratio (55/29=1.9 for you, 61/27=2.26 for US) Speed is just: rotations per minute x minutes per hour (usually 60) / primary ratio / transmission ratio / final drive ratio x tire circumference in inches (about 77.9" for an average 180/55ZR17) / 12 inches to a foot / 5280 feet to a mile So, supposin you're at 4000 rpm, about where a Buell likes to cruise, and have 100 ft/lbs of torque on tap ... Gear Eng Tq x Pri Ratio x Trans Ratio x Final Ratio = RW torque Mph 1st 100 1.6 2.69 1.9 818 36.1 2nd 100 1.6 1.97 1.9 599 49.3 3rd 100 1.6 1.43 1.9 435 67.9 4th 100 1.6 1.18 1.9 359 82.3 5th 100 1.6 1.00 1.9 304 97.0 With US gearing, it would be: Gear Eng Tq x Pri Ratio x Trans Ratio x Final Ratio = RW torque Mph 1st 100 1.6 2.69 2.26 974 30.3 2nd 100 1.6 1.97 2.26 713 41.4 3rd 100 1.6 1.43 2.26 518 57.1 4th 100 1.6 1.18 2.26 427 69.2 5th 100 1.6 1.00 2.26 362 81.6 So you're gaining rear wheel torque, but your cruising speed at a comfortable 4000 rpm is lower. Now, say you put both the Baker 6-speed AND the US final gearing on your bike ... Gear Eng Tq x Pri Ratio x Trans Ratio x Final Ratio = RW torque Mph 1st 100 1.6 2.52 2.26 912 32.4 2nd 100 1.6 1.96 2.26 710 41.6 3rd 100 1.6 1.44 2.26 521 56.7 4th 100 1.6 1.18 2.26 427 69.2 5th 100 1.6 1.00 2.26 362 81.6 6th 100 1.6 0.86 2.26 311 94.9 See, now you can have your cake and eat it too! You've got the torque and the nice cruise speed.   Richieg150 Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 03:28 am:        Aaron,THANKS I cant beleive how simple it all really is,I cant beleive I didnt look in the most obvious of places!!I guess next time,i will have to check all the threads and archives BEFORE ASKING!I wont let it happen again(obvious sarcasm here too!)   Spiked Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2001 - 02:55 pm:        Speaking of gearing changes . . . Where's a good place for us ultra-budget types to pick up cheap pulleys?? I'd like to switch to a lower ratio (larger rear/smaller front). Thanks in advance. Spike   Henrik Posted on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 08:43 pm:        Transmission upgrade questions; I'm looking to improve shifting without sacrificing longevity: 1) Does anyone have positive experience with back-cutting the gears? 2) Will any of the aftermarket shift drums give me smoother shifting? 3) Anyone had good experience replacing the "spring/spacer plate" in the clutch with a regular clutch plate? 4) Anything else I can do? 5) Will I at this point be better off with a Baker 6-speed :-)) ? Henrik   Blake Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 12:12 am:        Henrik: What aspect of your Buell shifting are you looking to improve?   Rippin Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 11:03 pm:        Aaron: Do you have a Baker 6? If so how's it holding up to your expectations? Also where can the tranny be purchased other than from Baker for $2300+? Thanks Ryan   Henrik Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 10:16 am:        Blake I guess I'm looking for that elusive "snick - snick" feel ... - shorter, more precise throw - more precise engagement of shift mechanism - smoother out of and into gear probably more than I can expect out of the "old agricultural implement" Henrik (winter is for dreaming up "projects")   Aaron Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 12:30 pm:        No, I was trying to talk Rocket into getting one. I do have the Baker slick shift kit in the S1. Really reduces shift effort and improves shifting. But it could use a short throw shifter to go with it.   Blake Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 05:45 pm:        Henrick, I agree. It's funny that, after riding Buells for 4 years, when I ride a new Jap bike, like Paul's (Snail's) Busa, the shifting is sooo short and easy it feels to me like the shifter has seized. LOL. I guess my big dorky size 12's are made for Buell shifting.   Rocketman Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 07:41 pm:        Aaron : You succeeded, but I don't have the cash to buy it Maybe when I've got less irons in the fire Rocket in England   Henrik Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 02:33 pm:        Aaron: did you think the slick shift kit was worth the $$ ? Henrik   Aaron Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 04:19 pm:        Henrik: I don't think any of this stuff is worth the $. But we do it anyway! I haven't rushed out to put it in every bike. But I had another reason for going into the S1's gearbox. I might do it again if I had to go inside another gearbox. Especially if I had a short throw shifter solution to go with it. AW   Al_Lighton Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 05:00 pm:        Henrik, What Aaron said. I put one in mine too, after talking with Aaron, because I was in my gearbox for other reasons as well. Neutral is easier to find from both directions. Aaron noted on his that it was much easier from one side than the other, but easier than stock from both. It does shift easier overall, but without reducing the throw to match, it's a marginal improvement. I've noticed a little bit more tendency to find a "false neutral" between 3rd and 4th, and 4th and 5th, but I think it's only because it's easier to shift lazy with the lower force required. It doesn't change the fundamental "farm implement" feel of the Sporty tranny. But it's as step in the right direction. I realy don't have that much of a problem with the stock shifter with a Banke installed, wasn't crazy about the stock linkage, though. And Aarons right, none of it is worth what we spend on it! Al   Aaron Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 05:48 pm:        FWIW, Al and I have had a slightly different result with respect to false neutrals ... I don't think I've hit a single one since putting the kit in, versus an occasional one before. YMMV as always. I did replace all the shift forks while I had it apart, for grins, not sure if that means anything or not. One critical thing about these gearboxes is to lube the beejeezus out of everything on assenbly. It's amazing how long it can take to get lubricaton everywhere and have them start shifting correctly. I'm talking a half hour of riding if you're negligent with the assembly lube. Even lubing it correctly, shift it carefully for a bit. AW   Sarodude Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 06:18 pm:        Aaron- My CURRENT Blast motor (same gearbox guts, right?) took about a 50 mile ride before it stopped misbehaving on downshifts. Still not quite right. Hard to believe that it takes THAT much time to work the lube through the tranny... Of course, EXPERIENCING is believing... -Saro   José_Quiñones Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 08:49 pm:        The question everybody will want to know the answer to is: Is the new "innovative dual rail" shifting mechanism on the XB9R retrofittable to older bikes?   Henrik Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 11:43 pm:        Aaron, Al: thanks for the info. José: I had the same thought Shorter throw: it should be possible to design a shifter that could help that a bit...? Change the relative length of the lever arms? Henrik   Al_Lighton Posted on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 02:53 am:        Henrik, I talked with Jim Banke about that. Banke has a newer design shifter that doesn't have the "L" shaped shift lever, its straight and has a lever from the toe peg side and a shorter shift shaft lever (about 1/2 length of the original). My first inclination was to get one of those shorter shift shaft levers and use it with my existing "L" shifter. But the bolt hole sizes are different (smaller, not drillable without near breakout), and even if they weren't, the geometry isn't quite right if you want to keep an adjustable heim joint in the linkage for fine adjusting toe peg angle. Having that adjustment is kinda critical, because there is no specific clocking of the broached splines on the shift shaft lever. He said he would machine one of the newer non-"L" shifter levers with a different linkage position, but now your talking more bucks if you already have the original lever that can't be reused. I'll get to it some day, it isn't a particularly bad shifting bike as is..   Henrik Posted on Saturday, November 17, 2001 - 10:18 pm:        Al: I had the old style Banke shifter on the S3, and it worked ok, but didn't take as much "slop" out of the linkage as I had hoped. I think a really wide bronze bushing would have been a better choice than the ball bearing. I think a tight linkage would make a big improvement in shifting. I was also thinking that making the arm on the shift lever a bit longer than the shift shaft lever and making a shorter "toe peg" lever would make the shifter throw shorter. But you're right - to have someone make that for me would be expensive and maybe not be worth the $$ in the end. Henrik   Rippin Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 02:51 pm:        Anyone know of any articles/write ups on the Baker 6 speed on longevity. I think I got all the installs articles but no one seems to do a follow up on it. Would really like to put one in this winter but can't justify the cash outlay since I know you could never get near that out of it if you were to sell. Most everyone I ride with cruz at 85+ all the time. Thanks Ryan   Blake Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 05:25 pm:        Ryan: Why not just change to Euro final drive sprockets?   Rocketman Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 09:32 pm:        Ah Blake, I can answer that one. If you use a Baker Six with the Euro American pulleys it gives you a tall 6th gear which is the same as the stock Euro 5th gear. Equally, the first five gears will match the lower US gearing (give or take) providing you use the Euro American pulleys. I hope I got that right Rocket in England With a little help from a friend, who knew what you were trying to say, you did