| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Well, I think thats optimistic as far the Jardine. I dont think we know anyone with a Jardine and substantial mileage, but we do know people with a Pro Series and substantial mileage. The Pro Series will limit any other performance beyond the minimal Buell approved mods (I was careful to state that). It has a different powerband. They are really two very different exhausts. | ||
| Ezblast |
The Jardine has the same header as the WB but in stainless with a regular canister and no discs - the info for mounting the WB applies directly to mounting the Jardine - since they also supply and give the same mounting hardware - quiet a few WB's done my way are still out there, however, the Pro-series long termers grows fewer and fewer as they rust away! LOL GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Xgecko |
On the Subject of WB and repacking I was searching the adventure rider forum for repacking info (they have lots of thumpers and noise can be an issue in the back country) and I came across Superwool 607 which is a ceramic insulation used in all kinds of really high temp uses like kilns and industrial furnaces. I bought 2 12"x24"x1" blankets from a pottery supply store to try repacking my WB with. Word on ADV is that this stuff is super long life. Cost was $10 for each blanket | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thanks for the tip Tony. I'll let time be the judge on the Jardine exhaust. | ||
| Xgecko |
I've heard the Jardine is about the same as the WB. you will know by the rattle of your teeth when it needs repacking. Unlike the V&H which is actually hard to tell when it needs repacking since the loudness doesn't really change | ||
| Jprovo |
That's funny we use Superwool to insulate our oven cells... I now have a cheap source of muffler packing!! | ||
| Xgecko |
yeah that's what I had heard about it...temp wise the stuff is supposed to (b)last forever. The only issue I have heard is that it's not the safest thing to handle...Mine shipped today so it should be there when I get home...right now I'm distracted by lots of attractive Greek women in high heel'd boots walking back and forth on the stone floor of my hotel lobby | ||
| Mabueller |
I am looking to repack my V&H. Can someone post on how to do that? I tried to remove the bolts holding on the endcap and they did not want to loosen. Any pointers? TIA, <Jim | ||
| Vortec57 |
Hey guys, just got my V&H system from the guy in the big brown truck today. It's used, so I'm not sure if I wanna try to get it coated black before I install it or not. There's no insturctions and looks like minimal hardware. Any tips or tricks? Also, anyone dealt with powdercoating their exhaust? Not sure if it would hold the heat, but I've been working to black out everything on the bike and the chrome just doesn't jive. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
First I'd check the can for tightness (all rivets and bolts okay) and depending on how used I might repack it before installation. Well, most paint (including powdercoating) unless hi temp will burn off. I've had mine ceramic coated (www.embeeperformance.com)flat black and it has resisted any staining from washing or rain or heat. It cost me about $150 to get it coated, so a Blast exhaust is about 1/3 the size, so I'm guessing $50!? It should be noted that the bike with the ceramic coat exhaust doesnt see anywhere near the rain or abuse the Blast does. | ||
| Buellkat |
I am looking to repack my V&H. Can someone post on how to do that? I tried to remove the bolts holding on the endcap and they did not want to loosen. Any pointers? We need some help. anyone? anyone? bueller? (like in the movie)...thanks Kat | ||
| Ezblast |
See above for the packing to use and search these archives for that answer - try spraying a little penetrating oil on the screws then use mucho brute strength to take off - I'd suggest taking can off to do this. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
Kewl, thanks alot, EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I'm sorry if I sound harsh, but the fact is - it is a straight forward thing, just not easy - be prepared to replace screws also when they get a bit stripped being taken out - the penetrating oil does help, also a bit of heat on the screw has been known to help as well - when replacing my disc brake - no heat and the bolt wouldn't budge, a minute of being touched with a soldering iron and they came right out. Usually penetrating oil is enough though - just give it time - spray real good and take an hour brake - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Hey Buellkat, my daughter is moving back to White Cloud, and reopening her salon. A little bit of heat, some times tapping lightly with a hammer, then when that doesn't work give it a real good rap with a hammer, more than likely there is some hi-temp, hi-strength Loctite on the bolts, or some heavy duty rust(we live in Michigan, remember!) so alot of heat from a propane torch to get things hot to loosen the strength of the Loctite. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Looking at my V & H muffler is seems it might be easier for a repack to just drill out the rivets on the inlet end if the bolts wont come out. If the bolts strip or the heads break off you're going to have to drill and tap the end cap. The core also comes out with the end cap so it might be easier to pack from the riveted inlet side. 2 ways to pack: wrap the insulation blanket around the core-which means pulling off the end cap. Or: stuff the insulation in from the riveted end. If the cores broken up you'll have to pull the end cap anyway.Mine was broken up so I just replaced it with an FXR muffler I had. Just some of my thoughts and experience with the V&H (and like designed White Brothers exhaust). | ||
| Buellkat |
Thank you everybody. I think Jim & I, or others just wanted to know if we needed to work very hard at removing the endcap. | ||
| Swampy |
OK, here is the deal.... I found a small Amish metal shop in Indiana when I was working down there this week. The thought I had was they have been making custom radiator tanks for the bus company I was at and I got thinking that if I was to take a stock exhaust to them to pattern the shape and position, what would the ideal primary length and diameter be. So what am I looking for? What would the wish list look like? | ||
| Ezblast |
1 3/4" header, 27" is the WB/Jardine header - if you could do the bends like the Pro-series/D&D - the few added inches would be all to the good add a 3" Supertrap universal with 23 discs and screw the stuffing - given my WB has been empty for years - the discs give enough back pressure for the motor while being free flowing enough for the interior not to break apart and start rattling around - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Swampy check out the following thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/162885.html?1133558298 Or go with EZ's advice (which I have no problem with!) | ||
| Mabueller |
A question for the board. I had to pull my entire exhaust yesterday to repack the can and the exhaust valve I see is white. Is this normal? I was wondering if it shows a too rich or lean mixture or too hot/cold a plug. Any thoughts on what it shows? Thanks, <Jim | ||
| Ezblast |
White - lean - jetting? - may have to go to 48 primary - your already at 45/175 - right?, or possible you had an exhaust leak at the header connection to the head - that also would have those results - 12r12 range plug is cool - but it needs to be - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Xgecko |
well sorting through boxes today I finally found my new WB header. So It gets mailed of to Performance Coatings this week for treatment. I was gonna do Blue Satin but my wife would rather I get the Dark Grey Satin. She's probably right and if I want to spend money on Cams later I need to please her now | ||
| Swampy |
Mabueller, A white exhaust valve is normal. Nothing to worry about. Exhaust valves run very hot, if you look into the exhaust pipe(not the port) you will see much darker. The only way to get a read is by the sparkplug color. | ||
| Mabueller |
Thanks EZ and Swampy for your response. First time I ever looked at it. And Xgecko, "...if I want to spend money on Cams later I need to please her now" When DON'T you find a need to please her??? This is something I need to learn ... . | ||
| Xgecko |
yeah pretty much there is never a time when you shouldn't please your significant other...one of the reasons I got rid of my V&H was to please her...then again that was one loud a$$ pipe. Something I once heard on the Rosanne show and it has served me well...."if a man is right cool if the woman is wrong being right doesn't matter" My wife's corollary to this is it doesn't really matter since men are so rarely right in the first place....live by these rules and you will live happily. As for coating the pipe blue, well I think this is the same blue that the last year of the X1 was made and I didn't really care for that and the grey is more subtle anyway so she's right...again. | ||
| Mabueller |
"...one of the reasons I got rid of my V&H was to please her..." I kept the V&H and swapped out the wife. Your way was cheaper. HaHa. Just a joke. I didn't have the V&H then ... I had a '52 Jaguar XK 120, 2 Honda's, a house ... . | ||
| Kdkgrizz |
I was reading an earlier post about the V&H pipe losing it's luster after awhile. This is the same problem I have found on the kids 01 P3. I have removed the entire exhaust system from the bike, and media blasted the header pipe and mounting rings. I was planning on recoating them myself with High Temp Header paint. Either VHT or Duplocolor. Because these types of coatings need to be cured in an oven, at 250 and then 400 degree's and I am pretty sure my wife is not going to be very willing to let me stink up the house any more than usual by baking them in her new oven, I am searching around for a shop in the Detroit Metro or Lansing area that can do this type of coating on my header pipe, and mounting rings. NO CHROME!!! Just flat black, or maybe nickle or zinc. Anyone know of such a shop?? Let me know. Thanks | ||
| Jugallo94 |
kdk spidey told me of a place that can paint the pipes, but I cant remember where they were or their name. You can try asking in the stormfronts. Be carefull though with doing it yourself. I did mine a couple years ago, and even after baking it according to directions, my first 15 minutes into my first ride the paint came off. I have a big suspicion that it was bad paint though. we are having a meeting at hooters in novi sunday at noon if you want to come out and meet the group. | ||
| Swampy |
Check out some of the powder coating companies in the Metro area, I'm sure you will find something. A friend of mine had a bunch of engine parts and the exhaust powdercoated on his Suzi and it was less than $125 |
