| Author | Message | ||
     Paochow |
Hi, I currently have a set of Polly Heater in-bar heaters on my Uly and love them. I'm looking at swapping out the stock wind protectors with some real wrap around brush guards to help prevent lever breakage in the event of a tip over. (After watching a friend bust two clutch levers in two days on a borrowed XR-400, it seems this is a real possibility. I was wondering if anyone knows of any that will work with the Polly's? I tried the Tusk ones I have on my DRZ, but they seem like they would push the Heater too far inside the bar, similar to the issue those have with the Throttlemeiser. I need some guards that only go 1-1.5" into the bar, unlike the 3"+ that most guards use. Thanks for the help. (Message edited by paochow on January 16, 2007) | ||
| Xbimmer |
I second the question, since I'm also considering replacing the stock guards, and considering the Polly Heaters. Speaking of broken levers, I was checking through the O.M. for my brother's new KTM Adventure. I noticed pics of the levers showing notches cast into the levers about 1.75" from the ends, and asked him whether that was to allow them to break in a better place than say at the pivot. He replied yes and that got me to thinking. Might notch mine the same. Whether I find a suitable replacement handguard for better wind protection or modify the stockers I like the idea of "breakoff" levers that will still function. Some riders here have posted about broken levers after tipovers and I'd rather avoid that situation. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My 1980 Kawasaki KLX250 never broke a lever in a tipover because I was running stubby levers. The bars would touch down before the levers. Also, I had the perches mounted just snugly enough not to slip in use but to slip if they were nailed hard. I don't know if this tactic would work for walmart parkinglots but it did work for sandpits and tight trails.  See how beat it is?  Note also that it is plastic. | ||
| Baydog |
To hold that type of guard, all you really need is a short threaded piece at the end of the bar. On my KDX with aluminum bars I found a nut that would just fit the bar ID and drove it in with a hammer. A little crude but it worked great and survived through a number of get-offs. For steel bars it's a bit more complicated but it would be real easy to machine (or hand grind) a piece of bar stock with a threaded hole that could be press fit into the bar. .001-.002 should be plenty of press. Just be careful not to expand the bar so the throttle tube binds. |
