| Author | Message | ||
     Dapope |
I have always followed the brake pad manufacturer procedure for break-in (Bikes or cars). But I noticed in the Buell manual, "to avoid any hard stops for 100 miles". Manufacturer break in always has a series of hard stops, so what do you think. I realize it's probably not a big deal either way but I thought I'd throw it out there. These are Lyndall golds. | ||
| Vaneo1 |
Im running the golds right now too, and I followed the manufacturers instructions, the 10 hard stops. I am assuming the buell manual assumes that you are using factory equipment. IMO follow the brake packaging. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Proper breakin does make a difference. The lyndall golds I just bought said to make 10 hard stops from 20 mph, then 10 hard stops from 40 mph, followed by a total cool down to ambient temp. | ||
| Al_lighton |
The key when bedding in pads is that you want both heat and pressure. The worst thing you could do is have a pad that was dragging slightly, making heat but without clamping force to marry the pad surface shape to the rotor tracks. This will glaze the surface of the pad, and the pad will never get the same amount of friction that it would otherwise. With a brand new rotor, there are no existing tracks to begin with, so maybe that's why the OEM instructions are different. Just a guess. AL | ||
| Tdiddy |
Al, Do you stock Lyndall pads? | ||
| Chadhargis |
Lyndall's pads are awesome! Made such a huge difference on my bike. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Al, Do you stock Lyndall pads? Yup, try to keep them in stock at all times, sometimes I miss by a couple days. Front XB: http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-a pp.cgi?usr=51F6502889&rnd=4717816&rrc=N&affl=&cip= 69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=9059&cat=&cats tr= Rear: 99 and later, including all XB (Nissin single piston): http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-a pp.cgi?usr=51F6502889&rnd=9341626&rrc=N&affl=&cip= 69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=5431&cat=&cats tr= Front Tuber (Nissin 6-Pot) 99-02: http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-a pp.cgi?usr=51F6502889&rnd=5036185&rrc=N&affl=&cip= 69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=5430&cat=&cats tr= Front 95-98 Tuber (PM): http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-a pp.cgi?usr=51F6502889&rnd=5348076&rrc=N&affl=&cip= 69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=5111&cat=&cats tr= Rear 95-98 Tuber (Brembo): http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-a pp.cgi?usr=51F6502889&rnd=6740373&rrc=N&affl=&cip= 69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=5112&cat=&cats tr= Al | ||
| Tdiddy |
I've got 4394 miles on my Ss and the front pads are almost 2/3 gone. Mulholland highway is in my back yard. Thats where I burned up 4000 of those miles. | ||
| Dapope |
Thanks gentlemen | ||
| Al_lighton |
Just some other notes on the Lyndalls.... Most love them. Some do not. Here's what I've been able to tell from my own experiences and feedback I've received from both customers and brake vendors. The Lyndall Golds (the ones that virtually everyone refers to when talking about them, but Lyndall has other compounds) are not an HH compound. The "HH" rating indicates the cold and hot friction coefficient, and HH are, near as I've been able to surmise, the top of the street pads, there might be higher for race application, I'm not sure. The Lyndalls are likely an "FG" compound. So you can buy HH rated pads that will give more ferocious stopping power. But stopping power is only a small part of the overall equation as far as brake pads go. In addition to how much bite you can get, there is a far more subjective parameter called "feel". Some HH pads provide lots of bite, but they are somewhat digital in nature. They go from no stopping power to a LOT of stopping power over a small pressure range. The Buell OEM pads are a bit too digital in nature for my liking. Other sintered HH pads are similar. Some like it, others hate it. Like I said, it is a subjective thing. If I had a weak right hand, maybe I'd want more bite with less pressure. But I can easily lift my rear wheel off the ground with Lyndalls mounted, hot or cold, so I'm kinda partial to them, because they have a more progressive feel to them. There is another reason why many like the Lyndalls. The stock sintered pads are very prone to leaving uneven deposition layers, and that is what is responsible for the front end pulsing that many have right before stopping. You can see it plain as day when looking at many rotors. Those aren't hard spots in the metal you're seeing, you're seeing uneven deposition layer. Deposition layer is not bad, but uneven depositionlayer is. All pads work on the film left on the rotor. All things being equal, it appears from anecdotal info I've heard that sintered pads have a higher propensity for leaving uneven deposition layer. But given the right combination of heat, pressure, and disc warpage (ALL discs warp some as they heat, just not permanently), any pad can leave behind an uneven deposition layer that can lead to front end shudder/pulsing. But for most street usage, the Lyndalls seem to leave a pretty evenly coated disc, more so than the stock sintered pads. If one was racing, or doing lots of high speed downhill work, I could easily see how one would want a more aggressive pad. A couple guys here that have used the Lyndalls for that type stuff have said that they thought that they faded more when pushed very hard. Might be the case. I haven't personally taken them to that limit myself, but I'm not a track guy, I'm a street guy, and not a particularly fast one at that. That's my take on it. But you should try several types and reach your own conclusion on what is right for you. Plenty of guys run the EBC, Ferodo, or Braking sintered pads and like them. Many stick with OEM. None last forever, so try one type, and if you don't like one of the features discussed above, then try another the next time. It's not like it's a lifetime choice! Al | ||
| 12r |
3 or 4 hard (but not emergency) stops from 50 mph. Let the brake cool for several minutes between each stop. | ||
| Norcalbuell |
I just installed the OEM set of front brake pads on my 12R. Should i do a breakin procedure? And if so, what are they? My last set were the Lyndall Golds and the new OEM pads feel very touchy, like you barely have to pull on the brake lever to feel them, kinda weird feeling.. I guess i have to get use to them |
