| Author | Message | ||
     S2carl |
ATTN: Anyone who has replaced the gen 1 IDS w/ the new and improved gen 2 IDS. I'm looking for the small piece of metal that ran from the front header mount to the front exhaust clamp on the IDS. It is the 2.5-3 inch piece w/ a hole in each end. I have one that is broken and need a replacement. If anyone has one lying around and do not need it due to the new design, please drop me a line. Thanks Carl carl.reichenbach@snet.net. | ||
| Buelliedan |
To all the race header owners looking for a muffler to fit... Sport Twin has the answer. The new D&D will fit the race pipe and has shown to flow about 8% better than the race can!! Give Brad at Sport twin a call. He says they should be ready to ship sometime next week. Dan | ||
| Al_Lighton |
I spoke directly with Stainless Specialties about a custom race header muffler. Here's the scoop. The Daytona Boss muffler is based on their Performaster series, is basically a 4" OD can with a straight thru 2.5" diameter perf core surrounded by ceramic packing. It originally had a 2" diameter outlet, but could be had with larger sizes. The smaller the outlet size, the more backpressure that forces more gasses thru the packing. Their turbotone muffler is a foldback design with a 2" internal pipe . Probably would be plenty quiet but would not perform as well. I sent them a sketch of a modified version of the Daytona boss/performaster design that would not have the bent inlet tube, with a 2.5" ID expanded inlet to clamp to the race header collector. The overall muffler can diameter is 4" OD, the can length is 13.5", with 2.5" of inlet stub length 2" long expanded) and 2.5" of exhaust pipe length. The sketch also shows an exhaust pipe more like the Supertrapp (not straight, but also not bent thru 90 degreees like the daytona boss, bent out about 30 degrees, just enough to direct it off the rear tire). My plan would be to hang it in the rear like the new supertrapp design, with a shoe and t-bolt clamps. They quoted a price to build it of $189 with no rear hangers. I am concerned it would be too loud if it is built internally just like the daytona boss but even shorter (my guess is that a Daytona Boss is about a 16" long can). So they said that if I wanted a little bit more restriction (trading performance for less noise), they can build it with a 2" ID straight thru pipe instead of the 2.5" ID pipe. As a point of reference, a V&H muffler is a straight thru design with what appears to be a 2"ID core, about 16" long, with an elliptical exhaust that is roughly equivalent to a 2" ID. My guess is that the muffler sketch I've sent them would be about the same loudness as the V&H, but would perform better than the V&H due to the race header. I'll wait a week to see the D&D that Dan just mentioned, but if that doesn't suit me, I'll get Stainless Specialties to build per my sketch. $189 seems resonable. Al | ||
| Loki |
Al, Went out and measured my 2.5 inch Boss. 17.5 from inlet joint to outlet joint. You could realistically drop and inch of both your inlet and outlet lengths. Giving you 15.5 inch pipe length. Just thinking.... Loki | ||
| Jmartz |
Al: Seems like you are up to something. Let us know how it works out. I had a CF V&H with the stock header (2" inlet). I loved the sound and the performance it gave me. It lasted 15,000 miles. The rear bracket eate into the plastic body nearly severing it in 1/2 and then the front tab detached. I used its perf tube in my 1st race can till it expired on account of elongated holes in the aluminum body. Don't know how long my current race can will go after my recent repairs but I'm not hopeful. At least the collector welds in the header have not broken, yet... Buellidan: Do you know the design of this pipe? Mils steel painted black with a welded tur at the outlet? Jose | ||
| Buelliedan |
Jose, I am by no means a welder so I don't know what the terms: mils steel, or welded tur mean. I saw the prototype in person and it looks like a stanless can with black jet-hot ceramic coating on it. Sounded great and Brad said a stock X1 with the D&D race pipe, muffler, gutted airbox with K&N and a race ECM put out 103 rwp on the dyno!!! Sounds almost too good to be true but I will vouch that the bike was very strong. | ||
| Buelliedan |
I just asked Brad a few more questions about the new D&D. He told me it is a stainless can with jet-hot coating and the best part is that there is no packing!! Uses baffles to lower the sound so we won't have to worry about taking it apart and rounding out the rivet holes anymore. Dan | ||
| Josh |
How 'bout a dyno chart for the new wunderkind? | ||
| Aaron |
If they'll loan me one I'll dyno it back to back with the stock piece on my M2 and publish the results  | ||
| Josh |
I really doubt the guy claiming 103hp would let that happen, but maybe someone will send you their's for a quick test. Josh | ||
| Buelliedan |
Brad said he will be publishing the dyno results soon. I hope I didn't mishear him about the numbers. I could be wrong so please don't quote me as an authority since I really am not sure. All I know for sure is that they are claiming an 8% increase over the Buell race kit so whatever that means. What does a race kit net RWP? | ||
| Aaron |
If it does well, I'll even buy it. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Brad has promised me one of the first systems for my fuellie so I'll give a report on it when I get it but I don't have access to a dyno so I won't be able to give any numbers. Dan | ||
| Jmartz |
Put me in line for the next available 1 Jose | ||
| Rick_A |
I think the V&H with a race header would be an awesome combination. The V&H makes a lot of peak power, and I think a proper header would really bring up that midrange power. I'll have to try it someday... | ||
| Buelliedan |
Rick A, The V&H with a race pipe can be done. All it takes is cutting off the front of the pipe, cutting some expansion grooves into it and bolting it up. Marty from Sauk Prarie Buell runs this combo on his X1 race bike. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
BuellieD, Really? Wow, I did a few measurements on my V&H and it seemed like it would be too long to do that. I was pretty certain it would take drilling out the front rivets, shortening the can and internal baffling a couple inches, and reassembling. I'm gonna measure again, and if it's as easy as you say, I'll have one on in a couple weeks. My old V&H is just collecting dust now, right next to my race header. Al | ||
| Buelliedan |
Al, Contact Marty at Sauk Prarie cause he's the one who said he did it so he should be able to tell you more. Dan | ||
| Rick_A |
Where there's a will, there's a way...I just need the money for a race header... | ||
| Schemky |
Kooks Header Goof-up; Installed a Kooks header, replaced the muffler with something other than the Kooks, noticed my 99 M2 didn't have the mid-range oomph it did before. Pulled the Kooks header and found the stock header gaskets had done their job by conforming to the flat header flange on the Kooks pipe. However, the aforementioned tapered stock gaskets swaged into the header port, creating a pronounced restriction. I was embarassed and dismayed. Checked at a local "Performance" dealer (independent, not a Harley dealer but specializes in HD's) and they had two types of gaskets. The tapered Buell style and a flat ring type. I feel confident the Kooks header will work much better with the proper gaskets. Has anyone been where I am with this? If I weren't so partial to myself, I would declare myself a dumbb_t. | ||
| S2carl |
Schemky, I was concerned about that and went w/ the screamin eagle flat gasket. I found that even when properly torqued down, the header barly compressed the flat gasket. Instead I just used the std tapered gasket and installed very carefully. One tip I will give you, torque the header bolts down after each ride after the install. If you use the factory tq values, it took me about 6-8 ride/heat cycles for the header to finally seat into the gasket w/o loosening during/after the ride. By loosening I do not mean 'bolt falling off' loose. I mean that when the bike cooled, the bolts needed to be retorqued. Since than I have never had a problem w/ a bolt needing to be retorqued. HTH Carl | ||
| Schemky |
S2carl, Thanx for the tip, I already check the header flange bolts several times after cool down to ensure a reliable seal. For me, half the fun of a Buell is the simplicity of service/modifications/alterations. | ||
| Curveman |
Has anyone have experience with adjusting the stock muffler on a X1 2000? I mean opening the end and taking out baffles and then welding the end it back up. It’s for me a temporare solution till I know what kind of muffler I want to buy next year. | ||
| Simond |
Curveman, try a post on the UKBEG site (www.ukbeg.com). You'll find a couple of members with recent experience of this. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Curveman, (nice handle, I like it!) I have am 2K M2 but the pipes should be the same. I have done mods to my stocker. I picked up a second stock pipe to mess around with for about 15 bucks. Let me start out by saying "Holy pipes Batman! There's alot of tubing in them buggers!" I started by cutting off the front at the existing weld seam. The header pipe goes through the front cover and slips into the main exhaust tube in the muffler. The main tube runs from the front to the back, it's 2.5" in diameter as is the header pipe. The main tube has holes drilled all along the it's length. The main tube is capped at the rear right about where the rear external weld is located. I used a long steel rod and knocked out the rear cap, opening up the main tube to the rear "chamber". While trying to remove the cap, mangled it enough that it kind of folded in the middle and was able to slide it out through the main tube. Didn't want to leave it in to rattle around in the rear chamber. Viewing the muffler from the front with the front "cap" off the main tube is on the right (sitting on the bike, this would be the left "shifter side"). On the left side (toward the center of the motor) is a smaller(about 1 3/4" or so) tube that goes from the front "chamber" to the rear "chamber". I'll call this the exhaust tube. It continues through the rear chamber and exits out the back. This is the exhaust tip that you see from the outside. This tube is solid, no holes or perforations. Between these two tubes is another set of tubes located at the top and bottom. These tubes are smaller than the tube on the left. These tubes run from the front chamber to the rear chamber. They have holes along the length of both tubes. I tried to cut off the rear chamber but the exhaust tube is welded to the rear chamber cover and tack welded to the rear internal chamber baffle. In order to remove the rear chamber you would have to cut all the way through the exhaust tube. I just welded the seam back together without doing anything to the exhaust tube. I gas welded both caps back on an hit it with some high heat flat black paint. By punching out the end cap on the main tube, you let exhaust flow through the main tube, into the rear chamber and back through the smaller center tubes into the front chamber and back out through the exhaust tube. Exhaust also flows through the holes in the main tube into the center chamber and into the 2 smaller center tubes. I was going to remove the back chamber and cut out the short chunk of exhaust tubing that goes from the middle chamber through the rear chamber and out. This would allow exhaust to flow directly from the main tube into the rear chamber and directly out the now shortened exhaust tube tip. The performance was helped by my initial mod. My SOP* dyno tells me so. (*Seat Of Pants) It feels to have a bit more low end grunt. The sound is a bit louder than stock, definately a deeper more throaty sound but not at all obnoxious. I'll try to cob together a crude drawing to make this mess a bit more clear. Sorry for any typos, I'm having a bad finger day. Brad | ||
| Schemky |
Buzm2, Please do post some jpeg's. I initially attempted to modify my stock muff (99 M2) but wound up tossing it. I would still entertain the idea. No other after market pipe comes close to the near bullet proof mounting of the stock pipe. If the stocker could be made to flow and sound better with some back yard mods, it could be a good alternative. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Schemky, jpeg's are going to be tough, I didn't take any as I did the mods. I'll have to try to sketch up something and do it that way. | ||
| Jerome |
SuperTrapp update : just got a message from Patrick Busler at SuperTrapp customer service saying that there's no current ST solution for fitting the Buell race header. Bad news. The 725-71235 reference is just a recent update of the version with a conical inlet tube. So the choice for race header owners becomes quite restricted : (1) Buell race muffler, (2) the new D&D, (3) modification of another muffler like the WhiteBros or the Edelbrock or others. On my side, the old-design ST broke yesterday. I'll try to weld it again and to add some L-shaped plates to reinforce the link between the front inlet tube and the muffler front plate. With a second rear clamp limiting the lateral movement of the pipe, it may do the job. | ||
| Jmartz |
Jerome I recently fixed and repacked the old race can. Put a trapp core in it. Let see how long it goes. I will by a replacement as back up sooner than later. Are you still riding in Grenoble? Jose | ||
| Jerome |
Yes Jose, I'm still riding in Grenoble as long as we experience an unusually long indian summer ! But soon or later I'll be shifting to skis... I heard that the race can provides a noise level comparable with a SuperTrapp equipped with 18-20 disks. It's too much for my personal taste, I prefer the ST with 15 disks. This is why I'll try to keep a disk-tuning muffler on my race header (either ST or WhiteBros). |
