| Author |
Message |
    
Woody1911a1
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 07:07 pm: | 
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yes blake there is a stop on the spring loaded tentioner . the real question is whether it is approiate to have someone advising someone advising people to back it off to the point that it will do no good and destroy the upper guard (he advises removing it because it will disintergrate ).
i'm sorry but a primary chain failure can be fatal and if that means upsetting the badweb karma then so be it . |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 09:06 pm: |
|
Blake:
"i" am not running the BLAST chain adjuster "BUELLschitte" ...
"i" put on a XB primary cover/chain adjuster ...
Now "i" have 100% control of the primary
chain adjustment ...
"BUT" "i" can tell those who want to know how to adjust the STOCK SYSTEM to get a looser
chain adjustment ... A too tight primary chain robs HP(a BLAST needs all it can get), generates HEAT, and causes unneeded
stress on engine parts ... Plus what to take out which will enentually fall into
the primary chain(by the way the same thing happens to the XBRR as it has one too) ...
IF YOU ARE RUNNING THE PRIMARY CHAIN TOO
TIGHT THE AJUSTER SHOE WILL TELL YOU AS
THE PRIMARY CHAIN EATS INTO THE ADJUSTER
SHOE ... When you get it right all you will have on the adjuster shoe is a light
scuffing !!!
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 09:08 pm: |
|
Yes - I still don't recommend the primary being set to that - I like loose, just not that loose - I usually adjust warm till the sound is gone - good for a few thousand - lol - then that familiar sound comes back and I readjust.
Yes he does like to run Fat, however, I'd love to know where the AF stands with a 48 primary jet - the AF has always been in the 14's with the 45 - if the 48 where to only drop it around the 13's then I'd be on it - sounds to me that the guys running the SE have the best option, the B70 ramp being to rough.
I luv learning stuff!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 09:25 pm: |
|
Ezblast:
FYI, with my engine set up the #48 is 12.7 to 1 ... That is on the road(real world, not on a DYNO) ...
The low speed jet affects from idle to 1/4 throttle ... |
Blake
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2006 - 10:34 pm: |
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Woody,
Please don't make it personal. I'm unfamiliar with the Blast chain tensioner. Carry on. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 01:35 am: |
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Blake:
The BLAST is fool proof/idiot proof, But not Harley-Davidson proof/Factory Service
Manual proof ...
If you ever get a chance to take one apart
you will find that it is a good system ...
The shoe is spring loaded and the chain adjuster as you know it just keeps the
chain from hitting the plastic CHAIN GUIDE(which will break and fall into the primary chain as it will do on the XBRR if not taken out)when you gear down/back off ...
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Blake
| | Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 02:22 pm: |
|
Got a picture/sketch? I'm interested. I've seen the inside of the XBRR primary chaincase and at least at the time it included a plastic rub block on the top, above the chain in its upper run. Is that what you are talking about? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 03:22 pm: |
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Yes! |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 06:34 pm: |
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Blake:
It is in the BLAST Factory Service Manual and Parts Book ...
In the BLAST Parts Book it is called a CHAIN GUIDE and when hit enough it enough it will break off a fall into the PRIMARY
AREA ... The TUNERS that know how to correctly adjust a PRIMARY CHAIN will
remove this piece of BUELLschitte ...
In Blasting
LaFayette |
Berkshire
| | Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 11:41 pm: |
|
anybody got a scan of an exploded view (parts book) of the XB primary setup?
...or a picture?
(Message edited by berkshire on December 10, 2006) |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 08:47 am: |
|
Berksshire:
It looks basicly the same as an EVO Sportster ...
If you are thinking about putting a XB primary cover and chain adjuster on your
BLAST, "i" have already done that ...
E-Mail me so "i" can get your e-mail address and "i" will send you a picture
of same ...
In BLASTing
LaFayette
Ljenne73c@verizon.net |
Buellkat
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 08:50 am: |
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Buellistic,
Please post on this thread so "we" all can see. Thanks. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 11:22 am: |
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Buellistic
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 06:18 pm: |
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"THANKS" Eblast ...
Now do we see anything that we would like to ask "QUESTIONS ABOUT"(ie: why did yo do that) ???
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 06:33 pm: |
|
Not really - I think its funny that they sell a kit to convert XB's to the Blast system and you converted over to the twin system - lol - I'll stick with what I have and just keep it a bit loose - thanks;0)
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Blake
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 07:15 pm: |
|
Yeah, why did you hang beads from your seat? 
Someone please post a scanned image of the Blast primary chain tensioner?
LaFayette,
I imagine that in the XBRR the H-D engine folks know pretty well what they are doing. Lots of other issues to deal with on that beast spinning upwards of eight grand and pumping out 150 RWHP. I think the one I saw was runnning the initial single row primary chain that proved unacceptable, so the configuration may have changed. I'm not sure though. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 07:26 pm: |
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PS - I like the rearsets - a good cross between Banke and the Crossroads!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Swampy
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 09:49 pm: |
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I saw an old Iron head Sportster motor in Spidermans garage a couple of weeks ago, it had a wet belt drive primary? That would solve everything wouldn't it? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 10:02 pm: |
|
Sadly, they no longer make the Sportster belt primary (and I've yet to find one available). Someone does make one for the XB, but the last I talked to them, they weren't giving any up. Big $$$! |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 10:06 pm: |
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Buellistic
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 10:10 pm: |
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Blake:
BEADS: keeps monkey butt to a MIN. ...
You and "i" both know that a single row primary chain will not work on a TUBE FRAME BUELL, IT WILL NOT WORK ON A 150 RWHP XBRR ... Yes, "i" do wonder what the
H-D engine folks are doing ...
TOO BAD Dick O'Brian is not still running the Racing Department ... He told them the
VR would never make it and after a lot of
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.$$ the Factory finally figured that out !!!
In BLASTing
Lafayette |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 10:23 pm: |
|
If somebody with editing privileges would like to post the picture instead-go ahead.Things are not working as planned!!
(Message edited by gearheaderiko on December 11, 2006) |
Blake
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 11:09 pm: |
|
LaFayette,
I think they were attracted by the significant potential savings in rotating inertia and some high class high-tech chain engineers from some high class high tech chain manufacturer told 'em they could make it work. I think it could be made to work, but it would require some development, not an off the shelf product.
It would be fun to try. |
Berkshire
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 01:58 am: |
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Erik - thanks!
A Blast tensioner in an XB cover might be a great setup. The shoes appear to contact the chain at about the same place, but the Blast's pivoting shoe looks like a more stable design than the XB version - like adding a horizontal link to a monopod.
Also, the pivoting shoe makes contact at an increasing angle as you tighten it, which seems a little better to me. The spring might cut down on chain slap if the shoe "stop" was adjusted a little loose, and having a window to measure chain deflection at the tightest point is definately way better than counting hex flats and wondering what's going on in there.
Has anybody installed a Holley float bowl sight glass or a timing window or something in the cover at the proper oil level? Seems like that would be a good "product improvement". |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 02:29 am: |
|
Blake:
"i" think you will find that there is more chain stress between the motor sprocket/clutch hub sprocket than countershaft sprocket/rear wheel sprocket ...
Althought "i" never saw this, but had heard that a single row chain was put on
the KR's ... If it had been a reliable
up-grade everybody would be doing it ...
But "i" never saw one set up this way ...
"AND" the aftermarket people would be
supplying them, but have not seen any yet ???
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Mmelvis
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 12:20 am: |
|
Saw Buellistic's bike earlier this month and I must say he has done some very creative things. His rear sets move the pegs back but on the same level as the old position. Very nice work done and worth a look if you ever get a chance. He offered me to take it out but as he puts it I had "monkey but" and a bit a ride of ride back home so I had to pass this time. Might try out the beads... |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 12:27 am: |
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I can see you leaning off the bike and then keep sliding! - lol - ouch! Think I'll pass on that one! May never happen, yet.....
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 12:59 am: |
|
"Has anybody installed a Holley float bowl sight glass or a timing window or something in the cover at the proper oil level?"
If you add fluid through the clutch cover thats where the level is, so I dont see much point in drilling a 'fill level' hole (but I'd thought about it).
If you add fluid through the transmission vent line, the hole might be helpful, but you'll find it takes exactly 1 quart anyway if drained properly!
Still, a fill/inspection hole would be nice! |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Friday, December 22, 2006 - 08:58 am: |
|
BLASTers:
THE WAY TO KEEP THE "ELECTRICAL GRIMLINS" TO A MINIMUM IS:
"PRE-VENTIVE MAINTAINCE"
Tye-wrap your electrical wiring: stops shorts and grounds and the self indused
wiggle tests while riding ...
Put your BATTERY on a TRICKLE CHARGER when
not riding(keeps you battery up to full starting AMPERAGE) ...
Replace you OEM battery every three years
with a OEM BATTERY ... Before you install it, put it on a charger for 24 hours ...
IF ANYONE TELLS YOU THIS IS NOT NECESSARY
THEY DO NOT HAVE A CLUE(full of "BUELLschitte") ...
Check yor battery terminals for tightness
at every oil change(they get loose from vibration) ...
Lubicate your igntion switch with silicon
spray ... Water will get into it when you wash your bike ...
Put ELECTRIAL GREASE on all your electrical
connections, ie: electrical plugs, fuses,
and sparkplug wire(at coil and sparkplug)... Ever think about what happens when you wash your bike ???
When you turn your BLAST off, turn off the
engine with the off switch on the right handlebar, then turn the ignition switch off ... When you go to restart your BLAST,
turn on the ignition switch on(watch the
speedometer needle to see it move which is the speeometer doing a SELF CHECK) then put the off switch(right handlebar) in run and start you engine ... What this does is
keep the ELECTRON BLAST off the speedometer
sensor so it will work correctly(to speedometer) ...
Remember "BUELLschitte HAPPENS", but the above will keep your MENTAL STRESS and EMOTIONS to a minimum ...
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 10:23 am: |
|
"INFORMATION"
If you got the LAST ELECTRON out of your BATTERY and it lasted, say 4 years ...
The replace it at 3 1/2 years, THINK ABOUT THAT ???
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
XB9R primary