| Author | Message | ||
     Ft_bstrd |
If anyone is interested, I am going to participate in a little horological hobby. http://www.timezonewatchschool.com/WatchSchool/ Timezone.com has an online "watch school". You don't score any designations or end up qualified to repair watches when you are done, but you do have the opportunity to learn about the internal workings of a watch, learn how to disassemble, and reassemble both a manual watch movement (Level 1) and a self winding movement (Level 2). In the end, you end up with a good quality watch that you completely stripped and reassembled yourself.  I know it's totally nerdy and I should probably begin collecting stamps and coins just to decrease the geek quotient, but I thought it would be cool to better learn how watches work and what the names of the 200+ parts are. Any other nerds out there? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Unique Watch: Azimuth  Contains ETA 2836-2 movement  Like a tank, only prettier! Movement provides retrograde minute movement. VERY COOL WATCH. | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
That IWC is REALLY nice, anyone want to scare me with the price? Is it still made? | ||
| Rocketman |
I had it in my mind the McQueen Monaco had a black face and looked a little different from the one here. I say this because somewhere I have a promo poster from Tag, when they relaunched the modern version, with McQueen wearing the original. How much to purchase one of those blue faced ones, and do they ever come up for sale? Not sure I have the time, or the small enough tools to get into watch making skills Ft, but it's something I'd like to have a go at if life were not so full. Rocket | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Anyone want to scare me with the price? IWC - Portuguese Perpetual Calendar - Ref 5021 - Platinum - Limited to 250 Pcs - Never Been Worn in Box w/Papers - Self-Winding 66 Jewels, White Dial, Platinum Hands and Numbers, Moon Phase Display in Both Hemispheres at 12:00, Power Reserve and Date at 3:00, Month at 6:00, Year Indication Between 7 & 8:00 Position, Sub Seconds & Day at 9:00 Position, Sapphire Crystal, Sapphire Crystal Display Back, 44mm Case, $48,000.00 Stock # IWC-720067 I forgot about the power reserve function. It does that too. | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
 $48k I guess I won't get one. Maybe I can find a Chinese knockoff? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
The McQueen Monaco can be had. You have to be looking for one because they sell quickly. The one I posted, went for around $3,000 for the 1969-1970 Caliber 12. There is a manual wind 1968 Monaco that is going for $4,950. | ||
| Perry |
One more interesting thing I forgot to mention - Last year when I low-sided and found myself sliding across the asphalt I was wearing my Tissot automatic with sapphire crystal. Now the metal around the crystal is scratched and gouged somewhat, but the crystal is still perfect even after grinding along the pavement. Now that is amazing. I haven't fixed the cosmetic damage because it serves as a good reminder to me, kind of like the scars. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
The synthetic sapphire used is harder than the watch case. I'm not surprised at all that it survived. Which Tissot model is it? There is a really cool model for sale:  New Old Stock $250 | ||
| Phantom5oh |
I looked into the watch school you mentioned. Looks really cool and I would love to do it except I don't have the money for it right now. It's fairly inexpensive, but the wife needs a new car. Until we purchase one, we are on a "spending freeze." | ||
| Perry |
Mine is the Ballade like this one, except that it has the date number oriented 90 degrees differently than this one: http://www.timezone.com/library/archives/archives0 046 Other than that it seems the same. It seems odd that the one in the picture has the number oriented weird. I bought mine new a long time ago. Not the fanciest or most expensive thing, but I really like it. The watch school looks pretty cool. If I wasn't building a house right now I would have the time to do it! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Perry, The number orientation is merely a function of where they cut the window in the dial. The numbers are on a large dial behind the face. If it's the mechanical movement rather than the quartz, it is a modified version of the ETA 2824 (2836 is the 2824 with the day/date function added). The 2836 is a 25 jewel, 28,800 beat per minute movement. It is the other ETA bullet proof movement. Here is a link to a detailed description of the 2824. It's pretty cool! http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2824/eta2824.html | ||
| Jandj_davis |
Have any of you heard of Invicta watches? I have always been a watch fan, and own several, but they are all cheap quartz movement watches. Invicta seems to have quite a history, and makes mechanical movement watches that are aimed more toward the fiscally challenged market. I am especially a fan of pocket watches, since I can't wear a wrist watch with my leathers on. This maker has several very attractive pocket watches under $200. Would you stay away from a mechanical $200 watch, or did I just find a "diamond in the rough" watch company? | ||
| Perry |
yes that ETA 2824 is indeed the exact movement of my watch - looks identical to the photo except it says 'Tissot' instead of "OLMA" on it! Thanks for the link! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Jandj, Invicta produces good watches. Some are quartz. Some are mechanical. The only difference is that the movements are Japanese rather than swiss. Miyota is the manufacturer. They are owned by Citizen Watch Co. Miyota movements are some of the best available from Japan. Here are a couple examples:  Movement 8205  Movement 8215 Both are 21 jewel movements and appear to be robust, accurate, and durable. As you can see by looking at the movements, they are not as ornate as their Swiss cousins, but they are no less in the performance area. The pocket watches are more than likely manual wind versions vs. the automatic wind variety, but I can't tell. The Miyota movements that are in the Invicta watches are 21,600 beat per hour movements with an accuracy of -10 to +30 seconds per 24hours. That's accurate enough in my book. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if it strikes your fancy! | ||
| Billtco |
Wow, this is a cool thread! I like watches, but have never bought a "good" one because I am so hard on them. Some of these may change my mind. I have heard of the Sinn watches, but never really looked at them up close. The SEAL watch with the crown on the left is really practical, as I have snagged stems and torn watches off before. Thanks, guys. Bill | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Watches are designed to survive a fall of 4-6 feet without internal damage. With the advent of Incabloc shock protection, watches have become quite robust. I wouldn't worry about damaging one in everyday use. I would look for a stainless steel watch case with synthetic sapphire crystal. The crystal can be scratched, but it is very difficult to do so. A stainless steel case can have scratches buffed out and, if anodized, can be re-plated. Here is what a case refinishing looks like: http://www.horologicalservices.com/index_files/Pag e1574.htm You can see that the watch case is fairly scratched. After refurbishment, you wouldn't be able to tell it from brand new. Here is what a re-plating looks like: http://www.horologicalservices.com/index_files/cas eretoration.htm Here is what a full blown restoration looks like: http://www.horologicalservices.com/index_files/typ icalrestoration.htm The main question you have to ask is do you really want an heirloom quality watch? If you would like a watch that is unique and one that you can keep for several years and pass on to your children, buy mechanical. It will cost you a little more up front, but you will get to keep it for years. You don't need to spend a fortune to get a great watch. I would seek out watches with ETA, Valjoux, and Lemania movements. Think of them as being run by a small block V-8. They have been around forever and will continue to be around forever. You can always find parts for them and there are always people who can work on them competently. There was a concern that Certified Master Clockmakers were a dying breed. With the resurgence of mechanical watches and the steps forward manufacturers are making, CMCs are beginning to increase. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
You have received a private message from the following discussion board user: Doerman ----------------------------------------------------------- I bought a watch that seems to be 50ies in age a while back. I can not ofr the life of me find any information on it. Do you know anything about an Iposa watch? Ever heard of that brand? If you don't have time to respond, that's perfectly ok. Asbjorn ----------------------------------------------------------- Asbjorn, Here is the information I have on the movement of your watch:   The movement appears to be a Standard/Adolph Schild 1686.  The movement pictured does not have the Incabloc shock protection but rather has the rare Kif Satellor shock protection. You can see the difference in the circular area to the left of the +/- markings. This section is the balance staff that is the axle that runs through the center of the balance wheel. When the watch is running, this part is the part that spins quickly back and forth. More than likely, your movement is a later edition of the 1686 or one that was ordered by Iposa with a specific shock protection. Incabloc became the industry leader for Swiss movements. The AS 1686 is a 17 jewel manual wind that beats at 18,000 beats per hour. It's a good movement that should last quite a while. I haven't been able to find out anything about the brand Iposa. During the 1950's, there were numerous brands introduced that utilized good Swiss movements. I suspect that this is a brand that didn't make it beyond the 1950's. As such, it is rare. The face has a nice even parchment patina. The case is worn, but attractive. I would have the movement serviced and lubricated (if it isn't already), have the dust seals replaced, and enjoy it! It's a great 1950's vintage watch! | ||
| Diablobrian |
F_B you are killing me here. I can't afford the hobbies I have now, and you're enticing me into more. My grandfather (who has since passed away) at one time had a collection of pocket watches that I admired as a boy. Since them I've always admired the pocket watches at stores. Now that I've been following this thread I'm starting to jones for mechanical wrist watches, chronographs in particular. The Sinn, and Fortis watches are very appealing to me, and look to be very good bang for the buck. Is there a better choice for tough mechanical watches (I really like the transparent case backs if available) that are water resistant? I was even looking at a couple of places on the web that have movements, faces, hands, and cases that you can mix and match and assemble your own. That appeals to me too and looks to be a way for someone like me to afford a nicer movement and I'd get to design my own watch. re-sale wouldn't be as high, but I'm looking to wear it. I eye-balled one of the on-line classes, I can't afford it myself right now, but I'd like to do something like that eventually. Anyway, thanks for sharing with us. I'm enjoying it. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Brian, Most of the Swiss watches use the same movements: ETA, Valjoux, Lemania. ETA is probably the best of the bunch with the ETA 2892 being one of the most robust. The other 800lb gorilla is the Valjoux 7750 movement. You find it in many high end chronograph watches. If you start with one of these two movement, the rest is just farkle. As an example: Breitling Chronomat Evolution Retail Price: $4,835 http://www.jomashop.com/breitling-a1335611-b719.ht ml Oris TT1 Chronograph Retail Price: $2,465 http://www.watchesplanet.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl/SID=4 af189cca844/detail=67475204164MB Sinn 103 Stainless Retail Price: $1,270 http://www.watchbuys.com/Master/SI-002.htm What do these watches have in common? They all use the Valjoux 7750 movement. The accuracy is the same. The quality is the same. All three can be kept for years to come. The main difference in in the adornment of the outside case and the adornment of the movement. It all really depends on how much you want to spend and what name you want on the outside of the watch. Some people simply feel you have to get the big name expensive watch brand to get a good watch. It simply isn't true. You want to see something scary? Check out a short list of manufacturers that use this movement: http://home.xnet.com/~cmaddox/valjoux/Val7.jpg There are ETA movements from top to bottom of the watch world as well. You might have an $800 Fortis with the same movement as a $7,000 Officine Panerai or Dubey and Schaldenbrand. I would look at the movement FIRST and build from there. If your mix and match website (which I would like the link to BTW) has good movements to chose from and then you can customize from there, I think that would be the best way to build a watch. The Sinn Store: http://www.sinnstore.com/ Allows you to pick your watch, watch band, and whether you want it to have a clear case back, Argon Indicator, or COSC certification. That's pretty cool! (Message edited by ft_bstrd on December 10, 2006) | ||
| Rocketman |
Ft, noticeably absent from the poster of the Valjoux 7750 movement is Breitling. Is that because they use the ETA movement? I found a couple of re-pro Monaco's on eBay, but where they differ from the original is what makes the original that bit better imo. That be the red in the hands and the batons of the original. Here's another nice looking Heuer I found too, but it was over a £grand starting price!  I like the rubber tyre effect on the strap. Rocket | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Rocket, Not all of the Breitlings use the 7750 for their chronograph movements, but here are more that do including Breitling: http://home.xnet.com/~cmaddox/valjoux/Val6.jpg http://home.xnet.com/~cmaddox/valjoux/Val8.jpg http://home.xnet.com/~cmaddox/valjoux/Val9.jpg http://home.xnet.com/~cmaddox/valjoux/Val12.jpg The last link is unique in particular in that brands like Officine Panerai and D&S have chosen to strip off some of the chronograph functions on the 7750. The Autavia you have listed contains the Caliber 12 (as is shown by the left handed crown). The reproductions are Heuer Caliber 17 (ETA 2894-2). The ETA movement appears to be the base 2892 with a chronograph movement graphed onto it. As a movement, it should be very robust. The question then becomes, are you a purist? If you wanted an old restored Javelin, you could have one. If they produced a New Javelin with all the new benefits of a new car (more durable, handles better, electronics, etc.), you would obviously have a better car than the original, but it wouldn't be the original. If you own the original it won't be as efficient, you will be required to service it more often, and repairs will be more expensive. So, I would get one of each. Just to be safe!  | ||
| Diablobrian |
I have had a couple of Javelins myself, a 71 SST with a 360, a 69 with a 343, and a 73 AMX with a 401 It's been several years since I've had one though. I used to auto-cross the 71 back in 90-91 when I was stationed out of Alameda. Those cars were/are fun in much the same way as Buells are in some respects, you don't pull up next to one that looks just like yours at every stop light. They just cost 3x as much to build a hot rod out of as a ford or chevy. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
We are in the midst of a renaissance in mechanical watches. The last 5 years have shown the first time that new technology has been created in this arena. It's strange to say that there are actual R&D dollars being spent to improve the efficiency and durability of the movements. Here is a really cool article on the new Omega Co-axial movement:  http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium631670193290479607 Very cool! | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
Ftb, you have provide many hours of interesting reading to waste my time  But I do have a question. I really have fallen for the IWC Portuguese 5001. I think I might have to get one, just as soon as I can convince myself to spend $10k on a watch... But who makes their 7 day movement? Do they? Or better yet, does anyone else make a movement with that much reserve? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Monkey, I will check on the IWC movement. Panerai has an 8 day reserve. | ||
| Trojan |
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| Spatten1 |
There are tons of high quality replica wathes (fake) that use ETA and Valjoux (Asian) for $200-$275. They also have saphire crystals. You have to know your source to be sure of what you are getting. Tough to understand why the real ones go for thousands of dollars, when the same movement can be had in a solid watch for 1/10th the price. Much marketing expense and profit I reckon (similar to HD). The Swatch Group is contracted to be the sole buyer of ETA movements starting in 2008, which I believe is because the counterfiet watches have become so good using high-quality movements. | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
replicas with eta movements??? Details please | ||
| Spatten1 |
I'll PM you. |
