| Author | Message | ||
     Beachbuell |
I am going to be rebuilding my friends front forks on his 2002 M2 Cyclone. The question I have is will I need any special tools to do the job? I had thought that I would need a compression tool for the springs, but after reviewing the service manual the only special tool listed is the fork holding tool, part # B-41177. Am I missing something? Any help, tricks or pointers would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Beachbuell |
Anyone? Bueller, Bueller, Ferris....... Bueller? | ||
| Aeholton |
No special tools required. An impact wrench to spin the caps loose and a bench vise to hold them. Be careful to not tighten them in the vise too tight and put several layers of cloth between the vise and fork leg. You can use the old seal to make a tool to carefully tap the new seal in place. Just follow the service manual, you'll be OK. | ||
| Spiderman |
Do not put the forks in a vise and do not use a impact on them! While they are still in the trees use a wrench to loosen them, then remove the forks and finish... | ||
| Xldevil |
Hey. I always put them in a vise with some soft jaws. It's so much easier to level the fork oil. Ralph (Message edited by xldevil on December 05, 2006) | ||
| Spiderman |
maybe to level for the fork oil, but to tighten that much to remove the fork caps is not necessary. | ||
| Xldevil |
I second that,spider | ||
| Bigblock |
And don't overfill the forks, the high end of the factory specs is too full, I don't remember the exact specs, I think the high end is 105 mm down from the top, and the low end of specs is maybe 120 mm from the top, go with the 120 mm number. ( it's up to you to look up the actual numbers, it could be 95 to 110 mm, I think it's 105 to 120 mm, but my book is down at the shop...) In this case, more full is NOT better. | ||
| Beachbuell |
Whats the trick to jacking up one of these older tube framers? The exhaust and shock run uneven under the bike. Is there a jack point under there somewhere? Whats the catch to raising this M2 Cyclone so we can disassemble the front end. I know on the XB's the exhaust can is the jack point and it is also smooth and flat under there. Not so with this tuber. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Cyclonemick |
Use ratchet straps and hang from rafters. That's what I did in my garage. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I have a centerstand that hooks to the footpegs and raises the rear. I used to use a scissor jack underneath the shock eye (not the body) at the front mount to get the front end up. WARNING! 2001-2 tubers that use the shorter shock (and any Buell that was updated to the shorter shock) also use a shock mount that places the shock eye further back. This makes the bike extremely unstable when jacked up because the center of gravity is very close to the front jack point. If you do this... make sure to take the tank off unless it's almost empty. A full tank will topple a tuber jacked up like this... I know this for a fact. "Use ratchet straps and hang from rafters." Excellent idea (if the rafters are strong enough). I use an engine hoist to get the front end off the ground when I use the centerstand, now, but I'd definitely use the rafters if I had to. | ||
| Sleez |
i have a bigass hook screwed into a rafter, through the drywall, that supports the front of mine just dandy with a strap. | ||
| Bomber |
you can also but a short length of 2X4 under the cases, between the shock and can, and but a bottle jack under the 2X4 -- it's a mite tippy, but it works well enough in concert with a read stand | ||
| Maxbuell |
Need to do my forks as well. Is there any thing that can be done to make this front end respond better?? New spring etc. | ||
| Jayvee |
I just bought a new spring and cartridge emulator from Race Tech, but haven't put it on yet. About $175 or so altogether, hope it's worth it. | ||
| Buellfighter |
I used a floor jack with a rag between the jack and front shock eye with the bike leaning against a steel shelf and the handlebar tied to the shelf so as not to tip. With the wheel removed I relieved pressure on the top clamp against the fork legs and loosened the caps then relieved pressure on the bottom clamps and removed the fork legs. Never needed a vise! | ||
| Bigblock |
I have the racetech recommended springsm and the gold valve kit(my 'oo Cyclone has cartridge showas, no need for the cartridge emulater) and it made a HUGE difference, it was WELL WORTH IT. If my results are anything to go by, I would think you should have great results and find it to be well worth the time and money spent. | ||
| Jayvee |
Sorry, I got the "Gold Valve Kit -FMGV S2043", I referred to it by the wrong name. I accumulated several things to do to it when "monsoon season" starts (any day now) and I even need a new front tire to boot. My M2 is model year 2000, and the fork seals seem OK now, but should I replace them just because they're 6 years old, or wait for them to leak? | ||
| Bigblock |
If you are rebuilding your forks, don't even mess around with the old seals, ABSOLUTELY replace them. A leaking OLD seal would be a real crappy reason to have to tear your freshly rebuilt forks apart again! | ||
| Jayvee |
Dealer only had ONE fork seal. There's another thread somewhere here asking "is EVERYTHING a special order?" That Gold Valve installation reads a heck of a lot more daunting in the instruction sheet than it did in the advertisement... |
