| Author | Message | ||
     Fuelledbuelled |
Gday, I own a 98 S3T, the engine is deciding to stop but power to the ignition remains. When you try and start it, it backfires and coughs and after letting it cool it will fire up and idle no probs. I have replaced the side stand sensor but seems to be getting worse. The local dealership has gone over it but cant find the cause, telling me to replace the whole loom as a possible solution $$$$. Anyone with any idea where this fault could be originating from let me know. Cheers. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Start simple and check your plugs,see how they look and make sure they are correct updated #,(they are cheap,might as well put some new in)then check your plug wires, they can corrode at the coil.Check to be sure you have good gas in it--no water, etc. Drain the float bowl into a jar and see what gas looks like.Do you start it and leave choke/enrichner on for long--as this will foul plugs swiftly. With engine running spray carb cleaner around intake seals as they go bad and allow vacuum leaks,if it increases idle you have a leaky seal. Come back after trying these steps. | ||
| Fuelledbuelled |
Sorry mate I should have been a bit more specific. This is happening when i am actually riding the bike it might happen 5 miles into the ride or 50 miles into the ride. Suddenly the engine cuts which can be interesting at 100 clicks an hour surrounded by other vehicles. The dealer have gone over the obvious but no joy, thats why they are suggesting rewiring. Hopefully someone has had the same problem so I can locate the short without doing a $$$$$ rewire. Cheers for your quick reply. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Try opening gas cap--if you have a kink in the vent hose it will cause a vacuum in tank.Clue is a big woosh as you open it. Still could be plug wires,check em. Also check all wire connections for corrosion and battery terminals for tightness. Have you bypassed sidestand switch? I had a similar problem with the connection from my ignition switch to the main harness,the large 3 wire connector got loose/corroded and would intermitently cut out the bike,I found it because I thought I ran out of gas and when I reached for the petcock I moved the wiring harness and it kicked back in. | ||
| Tunes |
I had the same issue with my '99 S3... It would run perfectly for hours, or days, or weeks, then screw up. I wound up chasing this thing all over the bike... and it eventually took out the stator, voltage regulator, battery, side-stand sensor, angle bank sensor, speedo sensor, O2 sensor, etc... I also doubt it's your harness. There is a relay located under the gas tank bolt at the junction of the seat and gas tank on the bottom side of the frame. Make sure it makes good contact with a CLEAN & BARE portion of the frame, it's snug and wire connections are clean and tight. It was this loose relay that took out everything on my bike over a 1+ year period. If this relay is tight, there is a ground connection behind and ON the voltage regulator. Make sure that is making good contact also. I hope this helps. | ||
| Fuelledbuelled |
Cheers Guys, Bike is still in the shop so I will pass on all your info. The S3 has only just done over 6000mls by previous owner. New mods include S&S air cleaner, new disc rotor, Vance & Hines pipe. As there are not many S3s in New Zealand it's good to get your feedback. | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Had a similar problem with my 99 Cyclone, tried all the usual fixes, ended up being the cam position sensor. | ||
| Sleez |
do you have a fuel filter? i had one on mine and at high speed it would start cutting out like it was running out of gas, since yours is carb'd, it doesn't come from the factory with one, but many people add them later. if they can't flow well at gravity pressure than a problem will arise! i have had good luck with the aluminum russel type, but a clear glass one i had on would cause the problem, took awhile to figure out, i thought i had a carb or ignition issue. | ||
| Dennis_c |
I had a 98 s3t mine would do that to. It was the ignition module. About 3 or 4 years ago it was about $110. Its a black box about 3x4" by the fuses under the tail section good luck  (Message edited by dennis c on December 01, 2006) | ||
| S3thunder |
I have a 98 S3 and I had a similar problem with the engine cutting out, especially when cold. Turned out the cold was not the culprit. Anyway after many hours of searching and guessing it turned out the answer was a simple short on the pigtail from the timing sensor. You can take off the cover over the engine sprocket to check the wire. That's where mine was shorting. Good luck. | ||
| Fogcity |
I had the exact problem on my 2001 M2 - engine cuts while riding, could take two minutes or two hours to fire back up. Took it to the dealership three times before the mech decided to ride it home. It cut out on him, so he diagnosed and fixed it along the side of the freeway. Turned out to be a faulty heat sensor (in or at the rear cylender maybe). It was registering (wrongly) that the engine was too hot, so it would shut off. Sounds exactly like what happen to me. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I'd say try the tank vent. | ||
| Grndskpr |
I'd say try the tank vent. I concur, ride it with the gas cap loose, see if it dies R | ||
| Fuelledbuelled |
Got off the phone from the tech today. After passing on all of your solutions the bike is continuing to cut out with the ignition still lit up. The bike would run for about 15 minutes then die and continue to play up. Have replaced timing sensor and side stand switch and have gone over all visible wires and connections. The tech tells me the loom is the only area not checked so it looks like it may have to be replaced. Cheers. | ||
| Fuelledbuelled |
The Loom was saved, turns out to be a faulty ignition module. Went out for a hell blast and it is now running how it should, perfect. Cheers for your help guys. |
