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Finnman
| Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2006 - 08:46 am: |
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For the third time now I have had rough shifts into 2nd gear. Fortunately or unfortunately, I have had to take care of other issues (stator replacement, starter gasket) requiring me to pull the primary cover and occasionally the rotor and clutch basket. Yesterday it was replacing the starter gasket (it's now a rubber-coated metal gasket) that lead me to use a mirror to inspect the detent plate (I've had the clip break once and the pins walk out two other times). It was of course crooked - pins walked out. I pulled the rotor/CB (I now keep a stock of crank nuts and CB nuts/washers - buy Cometic primary gaskets) to find the same two pins walked out about a 1/16th. The two pins are those closest together - one rides in the partial hole with the hole next to that runs all the way through. Using a pair of needle-nose vise-grips, I clamped down on the pin, then gently worked the pin out of the drum. The vise-grips pulled off a couple times. If you look at the pins, they have three grooves stamped into them that create a mushroom affect outside of these grooves - creates the force fit. Once the pins are installed, the mushrooming is of course gone. I took a pointed punch and created some light mushrooming of my own, drove the pins back into the drum and the bike shifts like butter with the Banke Kit. I don't expect this to last. Besides purchasing the Baker Smooth Shift Kit, has anyone figured out a shadetree method for keeping these pins in the stock drum? Some earlier threads mentioned tack welding. Any luck there? A person would have to do a nice job cleaning up the welds so not to interfere with the arm. Appreciate any help fellahs. |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2006 - 09:34 am: |
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Maybe braze or silver solder.... That should join them with a minimum of "extra stuff" to get in the way of that arm. It would work to join them no matter what each material is, and be fairly strong for that application. Don't know what that kind of heat would do to the rest of the transmission, but that shift drum is a fairly massive piece as I recall. |
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Finnman
| Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2006 - 10:17 am: |
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You're right. The drum is a nice solid piece. I would pull the drum so I could have someone that is an expert to do this for me. I could also clean up the weld/solder on the bench with more care, if it looks questionable. For now, I'll see if the knurling I placed on the pins will do the trick. The last time I drove the pins in without any knurling I noticed the rough 2nd shift within a month. It just may take longer this time. Crossing my fingers it takes care of it. Thanks for the ideas Reep. |
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Justin_case
| Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2006 - 11:23 am: |
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Nnurling plus Locktite Stud 'n Bearing Mount should do the trick. |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 02:08 pm: |
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Would the Baker XL drum kit fit and work in a Blast/XB transmission? GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Ragnagwar
| Posted on Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 10:28 pm: |
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I pulled all the pins and replaced them with slightly longer ones. The new pins were coated with JB Weld and pressed in until they were seated on the bottom of the shift drum.(The originals were not) I then ground down all the pins so I could replace the lousy spring clip retainer with a much heavier(Thicker) crimp type retainer. I also fitted a bronze bushing on the detent plate shaft to eliminate the side play. The shift drum and detent plate are now like a solid unit with no end or side play. It took some time, but the total cost for the parts was about $15.00 and it shifts great with no signs of any movement. |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 10:46 pm: |
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Nice mod! Keep us updated how it holds up... |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 01:02 am: |
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Would the Baker XL drum kit fit and work in a Blast/XB transmission? GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, February 07, 2007 - 11:29 am: |
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OK - question - going in to the primary to do the Drum and Stator - should I look at and/or replace anything else while in there? GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 01:50 pm: |
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Is the drum shift forks on the primary side or the tranny side? Can't tell from the parts manual. GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 04:04 pm: |
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tranny - would have to split the case - sigh. GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 04:06 pm: |
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Good news though for you XB/Blast folks - the baker drum will work per Terry P. who had it in his LSR Blast. GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |