| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
ed.z 12.7 to 1(this is what "i" am running on my BLAST as of last check, 12.1 bar does not blink) ... Run my S3T at 12.0 to 1(running a modifierd OEM "CV" with 12.1 bar blinking) and get 49/50 MPG ... In BLASTing LaFayette "ed.z." <ezedzi@gmail.com> wrote: Isn't the jetting a tad rich? - Where does your AF stand with that jetting? GT - JBOTDS! EZ --- <jennelafayette@...> wrote: > > Save yourself $$$.$$ ... > Put a 1 5/8 inch hole in rear of muffler across from OEM outlet ... > > Repaint exhaust system with hi-temp ceramic... > > Put exhaust wrap from head to muffler ... > > Replace GROMMET(2) PN S0156.T, IMHO these are what causes the header to brake as they wear out ... > > Idle mixture screw out 2 1/2 turns from seat ... > > Radius slide, drill out hole with a #35 drill, shim needle with two #4 flatwashers ... > > Install a #48 low speed jet and a #180 high speed jet ... > > PRODUCT IMPROVE(gut) Air Box and install a K&N BL-5000 air filter ... > So there you have it - I bring it up because a stock bike can use all the help it can get, these puppies run better rich than lean, and that AF is great for diverse riding conditions. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
How is he checking AF? | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: With a "AIR/FUEL RATIO GUAGE" !!! | ||
| Swampy |
Yeah, but your still running the stock muffler....very heavy. Whats the cure for that? | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: Get a Shorty Seamless Megaphone Muffler PN CAM017565 from J.C.Whitney and build your own exhaust system ... | ||
| Swampy |
Winter is here, I will start when I shake some cash loose! I agree with you, the Blast likes a rich mixture, I just don't have access to anything to measure the AF ratio. | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: BUILD ONE !!! From J.C.Whitney (800)529-4486: AIR/FUEL RATIO GUAGE PN HA815401 ... EXHAUST OYXYGEN SENSOR PN HA815403 ... From K&N (800)858-3333: O2 SENSOR BUSHING and PLUG PN 85-2440 QUESTIONS: Ljenne73c@verizon.net Even though GUAGES(sensors) are the almost foolproof way of adjusting, "i" still do relie on the SEAT of MY PANTS(sound & feel) !!! Remember this: ALL SAME ENGINES ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL !!! There will always be one that will have the FASTEST TOP END ... One will that have the FASTEST ACCELERATION ... One that will make the MOST TORQUE ... One that will make the MOST "HP" ... One that will GET the BEST GAS MILEAGE ... One that will LAST the LONGEST(in miles Riden) ... One that will be the MOST RELIABLE ... One that will be a LEMON ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Ezblast |
Swampy is very correct about a adjusting the Primary Chain too tight !!! When too tight it causes heat, premature failure of stator, premature wear on Primary/Motor Sprocket Bearing/Clutch Bearing/Trans. Mainshaft components ... The BLAST has a idiot proof/bullet proof Primary setup, "BUT" not Harley-Davidson technician proof ... The screw/locknut is not an adjuster, but an shoe stop adjuster ... It has a Spring Tension set up which is very good ... If the Spring is in the hole fartherest it will hold the chain too tight ... If in the hole closest to the chain it will be closer to correct ... The best way(NOT THE SERVICE MANUAL WAY) to adjust is to screw the Shoe Stop in untill finger tight and measue its lenght ... NOW back out unitl it is 3/4 inch longer ... The reason "i" say do it this way is there is not way to find the TIGHT SPOT in the CHAIN as there is "NO" chain inspection cover ... There is a Plastic Piece in the Primary Cover that keeps the Primary Chain from hitting the cases if the Primary Chain Shoe Stop adjuster is incorrectly adjusted ... This Plastic Piece should be removed and discarded as it will eventually brake and fall into the chain ... "i" bypassed all the above "BUELLschitte" by simpley putting on an XB Primary Cover and chain adjuster assembly so "i" could adjust my chain to 3/4 inch on the tight spot throught inspection cover ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Woody1911a1 |
hmmmmmmm ? " NOW back out unitl it is 3/4 inch longer ... " i just measured the throwaway spacer that came on my and its just over 3/8" thick so unless it comes from the factory set too tight to adjust the way you just described would require removing the bolt and removing the locknut then reinserting the bolt , taking a measurement then removing the bolt again to reinstall the locknut ? or am i missing something here ? | ||
| Ezblast |
This is not a recommended method, just a different take on things which may or may not be correct - that is why I saved it - a question to be answered in time - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Woody1911a1 |
thanx ez , but i'm just questioning him backing the limiter off that much . i'm assuming by his finger tight method hes just simulating the factory method of tightening it to 24 in lbs , however the factory then says to back it off 3/4 of a turn not the 3/4 on an inch like he's recommending ? | ||
| Buellistic |
Woody1911a1: Back the locknut off until you can screw the shoe stop screw in against the adjusted shoe finger tight ... Now measure it ... ie: for example say the the shoe stop screw is sticking out of the primary case 1 inch ... Add 3/4 inch to the 1 inch measurement ... Now back out the screw to where it measures (sticking of primary case 1 3/4 inch) 1 inch plus 3/4 inch which equals 1 3/4 inchs ... The primary chain comes from the factory adjusted too tight !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Woody1911a1 |
hmmmm , sry but i do have to question your method when it is so different than the factory and even radically different than what others here have recommended. maybe someone else on here will chime in on this . | ||
| Buellistic |
Woody1911a1: That is why there are technicians(they read and say if its not in the book it is wrong and can not be done that way) ... Then there are the "MECHANICS" (they say the book is wrong and there is always a better way to do things as they think out of the box) ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Woody1911a1 |
Buellistic: as someone that spent 12 years working in a shop that specialized in exotic foreign cars ,primarily italian, i know how to think outside the box . you seem to have a very radical idea of how the primary should be adjusted and while whether your method may work for you , i do question that it is being posted as a matter of fact acceptable method of adjusting the primary , especially to people coming here looking for advice . correct me if i'm wrong here in my summary . for the sake of arguement , lets say your finger tight is close to 24 in lbs and w/o going out and unscrewing my adj bolt to get a thread gauge on it its a fairly fine thread 24tpi ? the factory recomends after tightening it to 24 in lbs to back it off 3/4 of a turn or by my math .03125 inches while your recomending backing it off .75 inches , 24 times more clearance than the factory setting !! seems to me you're asking the factory tensioner to to function in a manner in which it was not designed to be by allowing it that much freeplay so yes i am questioning your method . Woody | ||
| Buellistic |
Woody1911a1: The Factory Chain Tensioner is a SPRING which keeps constant tension on the chain ... The screw/locknut is the shoe adjuster which if maladjusted will over tension chain ... When correctly ajusted keeps the chain from hiting the primary case when backing off when in gear or idling ... "i" agree the Foreign Manufactures of Cars/Motorcycles have their Specicications and how to properly adjust things act together 100% better than American Manufactors ... My intent here is to give out information on how to make things more reliable and last longer ... If "i" am too streight forward on this is the way it should be, don't take it to hart ... Just do it by the BOOK and be happy ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Do it by the book and go the 7 flats instead of 4-5 as the books states. The above method is way too loose. An overly loose primary chain will also limit top speed as will an overly tight primary chain. The other method "by ear" works just as well and takes chain stretch into account. Both have been compared and come close to the same 7 flats out adjustment. Woody you've got the experience, so do it by the book and then go from there. I do also like the idea of using an XL/XB style adjuster, but I also like the spring loaded one as well (they sell kits to convert the XL/XB adjuster to the spring tension type!). (what that means is, for people who may not understand, is that Buellistic converted his Blast to the non-spring loaded XB/XL type adjuster. There is a kit however, to convert the XB/XL style adjuster to a spring tension type like the Blast uses. There is also some debate on which style is better.) (Message edited by gearheaderiko on November 05, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
ECONO" PERFORMANCE Stage "A" You can do it youself : ie: open up air box, K&N air filter, MOD. carb., jet carb. correctly, set the timing correctly(little fast), gap the spark plug correctly(0.030), H-D SYN3 oil, and put a same size hole opposit the OEM hole in the rear of the muffler. Econo Performance Stage "B": 1.75 to 1 rocker arms and put a larger pipe between head and muffler on OEM muffler, plus Econo Performance Stage"A" ... On Econo erformance Stage "B" it is starting to cost $$$.$$, "BUT" the engine persay has not been taken apart ... There is no Econo Performance Stage "C" as from now on it will be "BIG" $$$.$$ ... ie: ignition module(will require some expertese), piston(will be a little more than just swaping pistons), exhaust system(which one and big $$$.$$), cam(removel of cam cover and which one to get, plus valve springs), put on an XB9 front head(some work and improvising) ... Interesting..... GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
EZ...I dont believe you wrote the above post. Where or who did you get or paraphrase it from? I dont think you believe that butchering a stock muffler is going to provide better performance than whats available. Unless you've got a welder or pipe bender, making a larger headpipe is going to cost you more than it would to buy a Jardine, V & H, drag pipe or parts of them. Gapping the plug to .030 will make starting easier, but decrease performance. As far as the stage 3 "BIG" $$$.$$ thats just not true either (especially given the other proposed 'budget' mods).Much of it really doesnt make sense either considering whats available. The other things mentioned (ignition, piston,cams) aren't any more difficult than changing rocker arms. PS Did anyone ever post what the final valve lift is going to be after the high lift rockers are installed? (Message edited by gearheaderiko on November 17, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
The lift will only go as high as the stock will allow - so no you won't get past .5 on the lift - not the plus that some figure of .530 - the stock won't do it - need a diferent cam - however you do have more lift than stock alone - thats what Aaron was pointing out - lol - the above is Buellistic quote on another board - Actually a larger header would not be that hard to make/have made. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on November 17, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
You both have a picture of the larger head to muffler PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT ... You will never get what a high lift cam will do, "BUT" it make a stock cam a little better which depends on what other ECONO things you did ... REMEMBER the "DEVILS IS IN THE DETAILS" ... The "FUN" is finding out what they are and doing them ... In the "TWISTIES" you need good handling, not power ... In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on November 17, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
True.. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"In the "TWISTIES" you need good handling, not power ... " Until everybody leaves you behind. I'm not sure how fast you go, but if you want to keep up, you'll need more power. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"The lift will only go as high as the stock will allow" The high lift rockers are a multiplier of sorts. The biggest change they make is in lift. While the cam specs dont change the final valve lift does. Cams specs are usually given using the stock rocker ratios, so if you go to high lift rockers you must figure the new lift. So yes, while its doubtful it will make enough difference (specs anyone?) with a stock cam, it may cause valve train problems with any other cam. You cant just cheat with a stock set up and get a B70 lift with rockers. Its not magic. And really EZ, you know as well as I do that the B50 cam is so very mild that the reason (given or implied here and elsewhere) of using hi lift rockers to avoid putting that cam in is pointless. I'm not against the rockers but the reason (usually) given for using them to keep that fabulous stock cam is not valid, IMHO. How much do you think a header will cost to have made and welded on to the stock muffler? Or how much is a welder or pipe bender? If either is more than $100 its certainly not the cheap or easy way to go! (Message edited by gearheaderiko on November 18, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Actually - he's talking about the stock cam, and even with the rockers you won't get above .5 on the lift - Aaron measured 4.89 - if I remember his SACBORG quote correctly - springs start to get old and start lifting less also - so to get the full lift you would need to replace the springs as well - that is why another gent was selling it as a kit - rockers and springs, gaskets - to get the maximum lift and then the B50 as an upgrade for that - lol - in SF 6 years ago it would have cost about 100 bucks to make the new header and weld it to the stock can - why I went aftermarket - which was only a bit more for a trully finished item. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on November 18, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yaaay ...specs.. I knew you wouldnt let me down EZ! The old springs wont change the lift but will contribute to premature valve float (which is what I'm sure was meant). So do you have the lift spec with the B50 cam? Does he include higher rpm springs with the kit? | ||
| Ezblast |
B50 - 530 - so even then you are at and perhaps exceeding the stock spec just a bit - why Buell probably sells it as a Race type piece - the kits lift was 650 max springs - to handle both the B50 and the Ratio Rockers - in conjunction - that is a bit of lift - equal to a racing cam. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You rock EZ! | ||
| Ezblast |
Correction - The B50 takes the springs to the max - .498 - which with wear on the springs is less, with the Ratio rockers you are at .530 Which would be close to both the B70/SE550, however, with the stock springs and cam and the ratio rockers - you still wouldn't have enough lift to use them fully but you'd get close, they would be too much though in conjunction with even the B50 without changing the springs - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
