| Author | Message | ||
     Xbimmer |
Trying to change spark plugs today, have run into the obligatory stuck airbox-to-frame screws. Nursed out three of them (after breaking my first T25) but the Torx stripped on the fourth. Just broke a brand new extractor off in it now... Threadlocking compound on these things is stupid. | ||
| Nutsosane |
I might have a misprinted tool but...(awaiting fatbastrds double entendre comment,c'mon I know you're dying to let it fly) I use a T27. I bought a set of torx sockets from harbor freight when I purchased my first XB. I have yet to strip a torx bolt. The Buell tool kit has a nice axle removal tool other than that...good luck. I purchased a set of metric allen L's, SAE allen L's, torx socket set, 7/8 socket, gojo hand wash, 3 cleaning brush set and a set of tiedowns for about $30. How'd I get off on this rant? Anyhoo, try a T27 next time. NUTS | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Fat Bastard is all seeing! I'll let it go. No game in scoring with the drunk chick! You are not the only one. ChadHargis did the same thing. He had to drill them out with a screw saver. I believe there is an excess of locktite on those bolts. If there weren't, we'd be bitching about the breather plate coming loose.  Go to sears and get the stripped screw kit and see if that will work. You can also try very very very little bit of heat (like putting the tip of a soldering iron into the bolt) and see if that helps break some of the locktite loose. | ||
| Nutsosane |
As previously stated this Uly is my second XB. This is relevant because I cannot think of an issue of loctite being too excessive to cause any problem. Then again I have been using a T27 since the beginning. NUTS. (Message edited by nutsosane on November 18, 2006) | ||
| Dragon_slayer |
There's a drunk chick in the house! I have a go at her. Jason, it's ok that you have a misprinted tool, as long as it's not misdirected! | ||
| Jlnance |
after breaking my first T25 It's a T27!!!!!! This is important because a T25 will almost fit, and you can sort of get the torxes out with it. But it will strip them. I had to helicoil my Uly due to this. Learn from my mistakes. | ||
| Jlnance |
Oh, now I read the rest of your post and see you already stripped it. And broke the extractor off. Welcome to the club, I did to. The extractor doesn't work because they are stainless screws. See if you can grab the screw head with vise grips and get it to turn. If you have to drill, be careful. The frame is the gas tank, so you don't want to go punching holes in it. The screw is stainless, so you have to drill slowly. If you get it hot, it will harden. Use new Titanium-Nitride or Cobalt Steel drill bits and it will make your life easier. Hopefully the extractor isn't broken off inside the screw? | ||
| Saltydog |
I had the same thing happen to me...damn red loctite!! | ||
| Xbimmer |
Thanks for the input guys. T27, now I feel like a dummy...  The Craftsman stripped screw remover is/was the part broken off in the screw head. It was in the rear right corner, so access with even needlenose Vise Grip was difficult and didn't work. Luckily I had gotten the screw out about 3/32" so I bit the bullet and slipped a hacksaw blade under the baseplate and cut the friggin screw off. Couple scratches in the frame paint but not bad. Man I hate Mickey Mouse solutions. Plug replacement after that not hard except for reseating the caps to the plugs, they wouldn't snap! I was pretty much cursing X-frames by then I'll admit. I removed the rear wire and slipped the boot back, that's when I saw the spring clip on the connector, impressive overkill! It was easy then to push the connector onto the plug with a screwdriver, then slip the boot back down to seat. Live and learn. And I'm learning to use the shop manual as a guideline only. My breather hose is double-tied to the pcv, so I just pulled both hoses out through the baseplate. I read somewhere here that pushing them back up through from below is impossible but if you smear a little silicone dielectric grease around the ends they almost push through by themselves. Back to the screw, I spent nearly an hour slow-drilling (with Syn3 on the tip) that P.O.C. and just before breaking through the end the bit broke. Now there's a sawed-off, drilled-out screw with a bit end lodged in it. I know when I'm licked... Removed the red threadlock from three new screws and anti-seized them and reinstalled the baseplate with hi-temp silicone adhesive to hold down the right rear corner. Sometime in the future I'll either helicoil or bush that fixture but right then I just wanted to get it back together. Thanks for the advice guys, this forum rules! |
